1982 cb750 cv carb swap to pd style carb

[shinyribs]

Any luck on figuring out the mounting yet?

[spjr2222]

That shouldn't be a problem, radiator hose will be used as intake boots and I'll make a bracket to brace the back

On Jul 11, 2013 12:16 AM, "shinyribs [via Honda CB750'S]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

Any luck on figuring out the mounting yet?

Montvale,Virginia
Experience is something you get just after you need it.

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[spjr2222]

What is the proper sequence to carb setting. Ex.- bench sync, idle set, vacuum sync, idle air screw. And after jetting and needle adujstment through out the process of getting the carbs right do you have to sync the carbs again each time you change the jet or needle position which would mean then you have to adjust the idle air screw again.

[spjr2222]

ok, so i went to the parts store today and picked up radiator hose(for my intake boots) 1 1/2 diameter by 3ft so i have plenty of room for error.  my carbs are together except for the bowls for i am waiting for the gaskets.  120 mains, floats set, and bench synced.  waiting for throttle cable(hope it fits) and had to order new pods cause carbs are a little smaller than originals.  idle air screw is 1 1/2 turns out to start. i now have two places to sync the carbs, on the motor 1982 way and on the 77 style carbs.  i will prob do it off the carbs but i noticed when putting the carbs back together the screws that you take out to sync have no washers on them but the screws on the motor have the washers. are they missing or do they not need them.  looked all over the internet with no luck. if any of you know please respond.

i hope to have this bike running by the end of next week.

[TOOLS1]

Your carb setting sequence is correct. The screws on the vacuum ports on the keyhole carbs do not have washers.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

The vacuum ports where you hook up the synch tool? Actually all of mine have aluminum crush washers to seal them.

[TOOLS1]

shinyribs wrote

The vacuum ports where you hook up the synch tool? Actually all of mine have aluminum crush washers to seal them.

But you have round top carbs.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

Very true... 

[spjr2222]

ok, so heres how it all went down.
making the intake boots was prob the most time consuming.  i went to the parts store and got three feet of gas fill tube($30).  i use a miter box circular saw to make a clean cut on all boots.  this really came in hand when i had to make the angle cuts.  the two outter cylinders were cut diiferent than the inner, obviously.  inner were fifteen degrees and outter were twenty degrees. all boots were mounted with narrow band hose clamps. i forget the site off hand, they were cheap and good quality. i ordered a throttle cable for a 77 cb750k which mounted perfectly on both ends.  the choke cable mounted perfectly but hangs up on the pods.  that is something i will figure out shortly. i did not reinstall the push cable for they are pointless and only a safety feature.  i made a strap for the back of the carbs that i mounted between the frame where its comes to a y and on the back carb bracket were the choke mount is.  i then had to order 42mm pods($25 cheapo's) because the ones for the cv style(54mm) were to big.

i have 35 pilots and 120 mains with the clip on the needle down one notch from the middle(one position richer).  the air mixture screws are 1 1/2 turns out.  the bike started up and ran decent.  it was getting too much air from the pods so i took the pods off and cut 4 pieces of the gas fill tube that i had use and placed them inside the pods restricting some of the air flow.  i had to take the boot to the pod off in order to do that.  
the bike runs better than it ever did.  when i first take off it bogs a little and at WOT it bogs and then picks up.  mid range is perfect.  those symptoms lead me to the lean side, because of the filters.  i have not done a plug chop yet.  thats my next thing.  the pods are the issue.  im thinking maybe the bottom end bog can be cured when i adjust each carb by the idle air srew and the main might need to go to a 125 for WOT, but like i said i will read the plugs.  

im open to any suggestions with the idle air screw adjustment or any of the issues im having.  i thank you guys for your input, it has allowed me to make this possible.  all in all it was a easy process and done at low cost.

below are images of my conversion. Thanks

[seestheday]

Dude that is awesome that you got them to work.  Since you mentioned that you bought some cheap pods I think you should read this: http://www.caferacer.net/forum/technical/19639-pod-filter-thread-geeto.html

Sorry I didn't mention it before you bought the pods.

[spjr2222]

UPDATE:
i took the hose back out of the pods put 110 mains back in.  the IMS screw is 1/2 turn out.  plugs are black all around.  the bike runs better but still bogs when i take off from stop. the bog indicates lean but the plugs are black.  when i crack the throttle WOT it will sometimes spit out black smoke. very mind boggling.  i read on a different forum that was posted on here, that a guy had an 81 750k with pods and headers and hes running a 170 main jet with 35 pilot and 2 1/8 turns out on IMS.  now that is completely different than what i have. his clip on the needle is on the fourth slot down like mine also.  i dont know what direction to turn either.  i would think maybe go to a 40 pilot but when i back the IMS screw out the bike runs worse. after cruising and coming to a stop it will slowly stall, when i put the screw back in to a 1/2 out it corrected that.

Im up for any suggestions.  Thanks

[TOOLS1]

A rich condition can cause a bog also. If that "bog" is kind of a stutter, it is a "rich bog." I would have tried the carbs with the stock jetting first, and worked from there. Those carbs did come off a 750cc engine.
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