72 CB 750 - need advice on numerous issues

[apachedesert]

The first issue - and this will sound stupid: Do you need to have the key to use the kick starter. I just bought this bike in amazing cosmetic shape, but the kick starter will not kick at all. It seems as if the motor may be locked up, which may be the case. The seller has not provided the key, title or original seat yet but will be doing so, perhaps this weekend.

Second issue: The front brake pads seems stuck against the rotor, and perhaps the same issue with the drum brake in the rear. I bled it slightly in hops of relieving pressure, and that seemed to work a little. In neutral, I can get it to roll now but it is very hards to move this thing.

Third issue: is the ignition key the same as the key to remove the seat? I am assuming you do need a key to remove the seat, right? Is the ignition key also the key for the fork lock and helmet lock?

Fourth issue: Once I get the aftermarket seat removed (he says I will be getting the original seat that is allegedly in great shape, along with the title, key(s) and seat (hopefully by Monday), what do I do to remove the tank? I see two bolts in the rear. Where are the other bolts? The tank is awesome on the outside, not even a nick anywhere. But inside it is rusted to shit. Furthermore, any advice better than using BB's and shaking the tank around and then getting it creamed?

Thannk you very much in advance for answering all these questions. If someone would rather assist over the phone - and that may be easier - I can be reached at 919-637-7003. My name is Doug

[Re-run]

Question 1: No the key does not need to be in to kick the bike over, start yes but not to kick over. I would get the kickstart is jammed in the engine. I have not had this but I am guessing the engine will need to be pulled apart to fix this. Maybe someone else has had this. Get a manual though.

2nd Q: You will need to rebuild the front brake. The rear drum could probably stand to be cleaned and lubes on the pivot. You will want to drain ALL the fluid out of the front break. Pop the piston out when you do this. The fluid will push it out for you. Use a brass brush such as what a dremel might use. You will want to clean all the crud out, especially in the groove where the rubber ring sits. Get it all cleaned out. Remove the bleed screw and get a speed bleeder. You do not have to do this but it will speed things up greatly.
Check your hose for cracks. It is old and you only have 1. Might be best to replace it. Spend a little extra and get a braided line. Well worth the cost. Make sure you specify the year though to get the right line.
Now on the master, inside where the handle goes is a circlip. Remove this and pull out the piston there and clean it well. Clean the master out good too. If there is damage to the piston a rebuild kit would be order.
get it all good and cleaned and put it all back together. before mounting the caliper, remove the pivot bolt for the arm and clean and lightly grease it. mount everything and fill with fluid and bleed. Take your time and make sure the master never goes dry or you will never get the air out.

3: Yes ignition is same as seat. You CAN get a key from hondakeys.com I think. There should be a 4 number code on the ignition, give them that and you should get the right key. This key is for fork and helmet locks if they are stock.

4: If an aftermarket is on now, hard to say what is required to remove it. Only way to know is to look.
As for the tank, get the por15 kit and use that. Follow the instructions to the letter and the tank should be good. Just watch for pin holes.

[rm56]

The brakes are frozen from sitting and the bike not being stored properly. You will have to rebuild the brakes to make it safe to ride. The same key operates the ignition, the seat lock, the gas tank cap, and the fork lock. If it does not then someone has monkeyed with one or more of the locks and changed them. The fuel tank comes off after you raise the seat. There are no bolts holding it on, the rear of the tank has a rubber strip that fits over the back of the tank. And the front of the tank slips over two round steel mounts, one on each side of the frame head. Be very careful when you raise the tank as you can scratch it all to hell on the seat trim and f**K up your paint. A dumb ass mechanic ruined my new $500 paint job doing that very thing.
Rust inside the tank is from leaving it empty for years. The best thing to fix it is called KBS coatings designed for industrial and Marine use. Don't use Kreem or POR-15 pure crap IMHO. KBS starts with an acid etch to remove the rust, then Aqua clean to flush the acid, then you dry the tank with a hot air gun and coat it. My tank looks new inside and will last for many years. Oh and KBS will not ruin a fresh paint job if you spill it on the paint, amazing product. One tip is to keep your tank full and use fuel stabilizer in your gas. Normal OPEC crappy gas will turn to varnish in 90 days if you don't treat it. Stabil is used alot back East where folks can't ride in the Winter. It also sounds like your engine is locked up, remove the right side crank case cover and put a socket wrench on it and see if you can turn the crankshaft? A good motor will turn with little effort, a seezed motor will not turn. And you will have to completely tear it down to rebuild it right. Good luck.

[Re-run]

Where are you getting that his engine is locked up? He thinks it might be but instead of tearing it down, a person show see if that actually IS the case. The OP never stated exactly what was done to determine a locked engine. If it was just cause the starter did not turn, that could be the starter not spinning, could be the solenoid is crapped out, wiring might be dodgy or the battery might be flat.
Can the bike be put into 5th gear and moved? If so, then you are not locked up. Make sure you remove the front brake first if it is locked.
As for por15 being crap, I would have to say you either did not try it or you did not follow the instructions.
It works very well, well enough that many do not even bother with the 3rd step. But if por is crap, then so is kbs as they do the same thing. IMHO

[rm56]

"but the kick starter will not kick at all. It seems as if the motor may be locked up," That is a quote from his first thread. On a inline four with a kick start it is easy to use the kick starter to see if the engine is froze. But as he said his kick starter is not working. Could be because the engine got stuck from sitting or something on the kick starter is busted, ie: the return spring or the shaft itself. Regarding POR-15 you are correct, I have not used it personally because I found a better product. I just owned a Kawasaki 500 triple that someone used it on while they were drunk or stoned, or did not follow all three steps with. Perhaps if it is used correctly it looks good. I was not impressed with it.

[Re-run]

Hard to say with the kicker. I still say to put it in 5th and move it. If it moves, it is fine. Cant always go by kicker as it could just be the gear for the kick. It happens. Reason I say to use 5th is if it moves, the bottom end and top are ok. If it does not move, then you know it is buggered.