Cam chain adjustment, double check and need advice.

[surfish95747]

Okay guys, I will be adjusting the cam chain using the method in the FSM, by turning on the engine, let it idle and losses the front cam chain tension lock nut and bolt, then tightening them, and then doing the same on the rear. I have read other places and seen on YouTube, people suggest not running the engine while messing with the tension nut and bolt. Why? If the factory manual says to do it while the engine is running, why do others turn the engine over manually? Any advice before I start loosening and tightening things?

 I am hoping this will fix the ticking coming from my engine. The ticking increases in volume as I give it throttle and then quiets down as I release the throttle, and then I start hearing it at idle sometimes. Does that sound like a loose cam chain or valves clearances? Thanks everyone!!

[Rodgil]

Both methods work ok for me. Honda changed their method of adjustment shown in the FSM addendums page 374, section 25-27, 1981. Doing it cold without the engine running avoids getting your hands burnt. BTW I could only manage the rear adjuster using a fine ratchet ring spanner. And be careful not to go too hard on the front bolt or nut, as it is very easy to strip the thread, but if you do, (and I have), it is easy to fit a stainless steel thread insert.  Another method of turning the motor over, if the spark plugs are removed, is to have someone turning the back wheel, on the centre stand, in fifth gear.

[surfish95747]

Thanks Rodgil! I did the front but didn't have time to mess with the rear adjuster. There are a couple spots on this bike that could use the stainless steel thread inserts. Dang previous owners!