Can't get the engine to turn through

[TOOLS1]

Which sparkplug is causing the problem? Try turning it over with one sparkplug at a time in it.
TOOLS

[birdmannn101]

Starter was the problem.  Replaced starter but will not fire.  Spark at plugs, new points, wet plug, no air box or vacuum lines on carbs.  Will check compression on all 4 cylinders and install air box to see if it will start.

[birdmannn101]

Checked the compression and it was 90 - 92 - 105 - 120.  Tried starting it again and it started.  It smoked quite a bit which I expected after spraying down the cylinders with WD-40 and Marvel oil.  The rear wheel kept turning pretty fast even though it was in Neutral and I could hear some knocking coming from the right side of the bike.  I probably have  the clutch sticking which is dragging the wheel.  After I run it some more and get the engine to settle down I'll sync the carbs and hopefully that knocking and smoking will cease.

Thanks again for all your help Tools, Re-Run and LukeM.  

[TOOLS1]

I seriously, and I do mean seriously doubt your clutch is dragging. Especially since you do not have a clutch. It is common for the wheel to spin on the matics with the engine running, and the transmission in neutral. It is common for the torque converter to rattle, so I would not be worried about that either. However syncing the carbs will make it run a lot better, and quieter.
TOOLS

[birdmannn101]

Thank you, thank you and thank you again for that information.  You made my day...

[Re-run]

Even the F and K bikes spin the rear when in neutral. Nothing to worry about.

They will sound like washing machine with rocks in them if the carbs are not synced.

I am more concerned with the seeming low compression numbers, not being overly familiar with the A, they may be lower compression.

[birdmannn101]

It finally started but would not run with the choke off and leaked real bad.  Took the carbs in to cycle re-cycle and he said fuel stop pins were old.  I just bought them off someone for $10.  He said they were new and he paid $23 for them.  So, bought some new fuel stop pins, rubber gaskets for the metal fuel lines between the carbs and some carb cleaning needles.  Found that only one of the low speed jets were clear.  Couldn't clear the other 3 so took the carbs in to have them clean them.  Hopefully this will fix my idling problem so I can ride the bike around a little to clear the smoking problem.

[TOOLS1]

I have never heard of "fuel stop pins". I guess you are talking about the float needles. The reason these leak are usually the seat is dirty, or the float has deteriorated. You can clean the seat with chrome polish, and a Q-tip. And sometimes you can readjust the float to compensate for it not floating as high. Also those fancy seals you got for the fuel rails were just 10mm X 6mm X 2mm O-rings that you could get at NAPA for .25 each. Now the only way to clean the pilot jets is to remove them. I have done a writeup on removing them. It is in the Repair sources, and writeup section. Just look for "removing pressed in pilot jets on keyhole carbs".
TOOLS