Chain maintainance

[jamman18]

Can anyone tell me if these items are ok for cleaning and lubing my 1977 cb750 chain with o rings?

[Piute]

 I'd definitely not use any brake cleaner will dry out those rubber rings,I use W/D with an ole toothbrush,then oil as usual.
Remember W/D is a cleaner not a lube so need to apply oil

[TOOLS1]

They have a product at the Honda dealer here that is, for cleaning chains. Can't think of what it is at the moment. I have never used it, but a friend says it works. I would not use PB Blaster, or WD 40, for lubing a chain. Penetrating oils like that are too thin, and have solvents that dry out. I use a product called "Chain Wax" This stuff is sticky, and does not come off the chain, or any thing else, you might happen to get it on.
TOOLS

[jamman18]

Thanks Piute....wasn't sure on the cleaner as the guy I was talking to said that brakleen makes another product that is similar but is 'chlorinated' and that is the one that will damage the o rings. He said this green can is 'unchlorinated' and safe. As far as the WD40 goes, the info I found said that it is not safe for o rings......is that wrong and it is safe? My manual says to just use SAE 90 gear oil to lube....opinion?

[TOOLS1]

Breaks have rubber parts, so I would assume the break cleaner would be safe. The 90 weight is an OK chain lube. The draw backs are, it is messy, and does not last long. You would be a lot better with a modern chain lube.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

How often should you reapply chain lube?I seriously neglect mine.I havent put anything on it in over 1,700 mils,but then again it was leaking pretty good up until a few weeks ago so...

[TOOLS1]

I lube mine as often as I can. Try, for at least every 500 miles.
TOOLS

[sgtslag]

Not sure about the products shown.  With O-Rings, I would be very careful.  The product I switched to, last year, is Du Pont Teflon Multi-Use Dry Wax Lubricant (O-ring safe).  It was reviewed here:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/dupont-teflon-chain-lube.htm

This stuff is not sticky, like most lubes.  I just switched to it this past Summer, so I cannot offer much based on experience, but it seems like a very good product.  Judge for yourself, though.  If you want the very best, which will double the life of your chain, at least, possibly more, go with a Scott Oiler System:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/scottoiler/esystem/

Scott Oiler company makes several models, but they all work on the same principle:  they drip fresh, clean, motor oil onto the chain, as you ride, lubricating the chain on regular intervals.  Some are controlled simply, dispensing oil on a timed basis, while one model ties in with the engine's RPM, metering oil based on engine speed, stopping when the bike is idling.  They are all 100% loss systems, literally dumping oil from their own small tank, onto the chain, which ultimately flings it off onto the roadway (very small amounts, so no threat to anyone, or anything).

As far as how often to apply any chain lube, I try to do mine every 300 miles, when the chain is warm, which helps the lubricant penetrate it.  I packed chain lube on my Honda when we toured on it.  You cannot lube the chain too often.  In the long run, it will save you money.  Cheers!

[shinyribs]

This thread raised a thought in my little brain.Does anyone make a belt conversion for these bikes.I wouldn't buy one regardless,just curious

[Piute]

 I'll oil a chain at least once a week ,but riding dirt roads and thru rain / puddles ,and most the time just a quick job ,.You bet there are chain lubes and cleaners all over the market but I use that is avaulable even on the road if I spot a used can (PLASTIC) at a station,may use the last few drop,.Mom even has reg oil in her garage,.
 

[MarkPBG]

I used to sell auto parts. The regular brake cleaner would hurt natural rubber like what's found on older vehicles. Most newer vehicles, say, after around the early 80's, have mostly switched from natural rubber to things like polyurethane rubber, acrylic rubber, silicon (and flourosilicone) and both regular and hydrogenated nitrile rubber. The non-chlorinated brake clean is safer for these older seals and orings. I would still prefer to use a purpose made chain cleaner, but the non-chlorinated brake clean will work in a pinch. They're both the same thing, but with the chlorinated solvents added, the brake cleaner is much more aggressive. Works better in the shop, but bad for the skin and hard to breathe while using it! Isn't soaking in kerosene the recommended method of cleaning? Yeah, who does that? lol

p.s. If you can even still find chlorinated brake cleaner, keep in mind that in addition to being hard on natural rubber, it also does not play well with paint, or plastic!

[jamman18]

Just to clear up, I got an email from the brakleen company.  They said that you should not use it on chains with o rings as it could deform them

[Piute]

   Found this well looked cause didn't like the sticky "blue" used before (in 90s on a KZ);
BUT i thought"O"rings needed no cleaning.
Paul (my mechanic)said kerosene N soak in oil for hours


                                              Tips & Warnings

There is ongoing debate among motorcyclists about whether WD-40 is a good cleaning solvent to use on O-ring-type chains. An aerospace engineer who works for the National Highway Traffic Safety Board and examines airplanes after crashes provided photos to WebBikeWorld illustrating damage he observed being done to a bearing after long exposure to WD-40. His concern is that it is such a penetrative cleaner that it can get behind O-rings and remove the lubricant they are meant to protect. Some riders have reported excellent results with WD-40, while others stay away from it entirely.

Apart from the small range of chain-cleaning products specifically sold for motorcycle chains, many riders have used other solvents such as kerosene, diesel fuel, gasoline, and 3-in-1 oil. Always check your bike manufacturer's recommendation as to what the preferred chain cleaner is for your bike.

Your bike manufacturer will have specific recommendations about how often you should clean your chain. Consult the manual that came with your bike to learn more. If you do not have the manual, check the manufacturer's website



Read more: How to Clean the O-Ring Chain on a Motorcycle | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5939680_clean-motorcycle-o_ring-chain.html#ixzz1jCkghcsT

[sgtslag]

I looked for a belt conversion kit, several years ago.  I found a company that sold such kits, but not specifically for my '79.  The cost, back around 2007, would have been over $400.  I gave up on it.

My '83 Kawasaki 440 LTD was belt drive.  I would take a belt drive over shaft, or chain, every day of the year!  They're smooth, quiet, and extremely low maintenance (aside from adjusting the tension very infrequently, there is nothing to do but inspect it once in a while -- no lubricating, or cleaning, period).  They last 20,000 miles, at least (current replacement cost for that bike, is around $200-$300).

H-D has been using belt drive for many years.  The belt can handle a lot of torque, without breaking, obviously.  The only downside I found, was gravel roads may kick a stone into the teeth on the pulleys, and that will chew a brand new belt to pieces in short order.  Belt drive is the best system, overall.  I wish more manufacturers would use them as their main choice for final drive design.  Cheers!

[Re-run]

See, now I do not like belt drive. I like shaft but it is heavy and cumbersome. Chain is still #1 for a reason. With a belt, you cant adjust your gearing as easily. Pulleys are expensive, if you can even find other pulleys for said bike. While a sprocket is generally under $50 unless you buy something a bit exotic.
Chains are also cheaper. My cb chain is and x-ring and I got it for under 80 clams. That was like 6 years ago. if I take care of it, I can easily get 20,000 miles. Yes, there is a bit of work on it but I am willing to only get 10-15,000 and do less work. I can get 2 chains for 1 belt and easily equal mileage, especially on dirty roads. I clean once or twice a year and lube maybe every couple of weeks. I have not had to adjust my chain yet. I suppose when I changed my tire, I can call that my adjustment.

Belts can do a lot of torque but in order to do so, they have to be much wider than a chain. This width might be ok for a cruiser that tips over at anything more than a gentle lean, but a sport bike, not so much. And a chain can still handle more torque. Any weigh of the chain is easily offset by the pulley weights for belt drive.

I guess my final decision influence is that few racers use them and use chain since it is still the most efficient means of transferring power.

I am not "against" belts, I just like chain better. I would not NOT buy a bike just because of a belt.
With all the other cleaning to be done, a chain is easy peasy.