Changing fuses to blades from tubes

[MarkPBG]

Yeah, I ran across that at the parts store I worked at. Many companies make them, and only a few make them well. Standard Ignition and Bowman make good ones. You can tell when you push the fuse in and it doesn't slide in loosely…it needs a bit of force to push it so it holds tight. That's one reason I avoid buying the cheapest ones from China.

[Lucky 1]

The glass fuses have been around way before you were born.
They have a track record, and you can see in the glass if it is bad without removing them.

With the new Blade fuses you have to take them out to see if they are bad.

[MarkPBG]

You don't have to take out ATC fuses to check them. If you look closely, the blades have a tiny contact on each side that sticks out the back. Just turn the key to the on position (do not start) and you can check if they're good by putting a small portable test light on the output side of the fuse, with the other lead obviously on a good ground somewhere. If the test light lights up, the fuse is good. You can check all the fuses under the hood of a car in seconds this way.

[1978Cafe750f]

Donald,

What year is that from.  Mine is a jumbles mess and think mine has all the parts ... just heavily rusted and floating around ... and most the parts ...

[shinyribs]

That was actually a pic i stole from google images when i was trying to sort out what was what in there.

[1978Cafe750f]

Got it.  My rectifier is more of a brown box rather than black due to rust and my solenoid kinda floats by the wires unless its tucked up in behind other wires. Some would say winter project ... but if it ain't broke why stop riding

[MarkPBG]

I looked at mine closer today. My rectifier is now just a top and bottom plate, while I can see the insides where there are 4 or 5 stalactites and stalagmites of corrosion that have grown together where wires used to run from the top plate to the bottom plate…i think i saw one speck of copper left on one of the corrosion columns. LOL, I think I need a new one….it may just run a little better.

[shinyribs]

The rectifiers are odd looking creatures inside.Thats why i thought it was some sort of a fusible linkI agree on the if it aint broke theory.I havent heeded the warning to replace my fuse block,but mine looks like brand new to me.Nice shiny brass.I like shiny

[Lucky 1]

This is one available from www.wiringproducts.com


$8.72 does not come with fuses.

[Daddyman]

I like it

[Daddyman]

Is their a benefit to using blades over tubes??  Because I really like the look of this fuse block.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SWX-PFB4A-AGU-Fuse-Power-Distributor-Block-4-Ga-8-Ga-/350503733340?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519ba6885c

[shinyribs]

I dont know of any advantages or disadvantages.It IS easier to look at a tube and see if it is blown than a blade.I have busted tubes before in the race car from either the vibrations or the front end landing too hard.Not sure which.Thats why i went to blades on it.I doubt you would have that problem on a bike.The only thing i can think of,if you use blades,they are not as fragile and you could carry some in your pocket for extras without fear of busting them

[sgtslag]

Electrically, there is no difference, zero performance difference.  The advantage I can see with the tube block in your photo, is that you insert your wires, and turn a screw to clamp them in place -- very convenient, and easy.  You may want to solder the wire ends, if they are braided, though.  The screws will tend to mash them flat, and possibly push some fine, copper wires, out to the sides.  Just a recommendation to get better, more secure connections.

If you do not have a fairing, you can always put a container of extra fuses in your bike's toolkit, under the seat, or behind the side cover.  Tube fuses are inexpensive, small, and well protected in their cases.  There are only two different ratings in the fuses on my bike, if I remember correctly, so you only need two, maybe three, types:  10A, 15A, and 30A main?  Cheers!

[Daddyman]

Thanks guys!