Cheap and Easy Replacement Regulator/Rectifier DOHC

[Manual]

First I wanted to say a big thank you to Icerigger, sgtslag, butcherblock, and trapper for proving some critical input and filling in my newbie wiring gaps. I have been running on this build for three days and so far have noticed a serious increase in the charging ability of the bike. I decided to start fleshing this out after going on a 20 minute in town ride with a battery that started at 12.34 charge and ended with 12.77. My charging tests at 3krpm have shown between 13.7 -13.9 and around 13.9 to 14.2 at 5krpm.

I have also done some reading in the FSM and other sites that leads me to believe that this build will not only allow you to replace one faulty component in the future at a minuscule cost, but also may extend the life of the rotor because it doesn't have to work as hard.

Must have Parts list:

1 x Amico SQL 100A Amp 1000V 3 Phase Diode Metal Case Bridge Rectifier
     http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A74HHT6/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     $12.97
-So this component may seem like overkill but in testing so far it has two huge advantages. First, it fits perfectly in the battery box gap which helps balance the mounting. Secondly, it has a massive air cool only heatsink that has been cool to the touch after hour long rides.


1 x TruGrade VR730TG Voltage Regulator
     Autozone
     $27.99

10 ft 12 gauge wire
     (5 Yellow, 1 Red, .5 Green, 2 Black, 1.5 White)

    $.32 x ft at Home Depot $3.20

These are the must have parts. With the above components you can do an "Holy crap I need it now fix". It will be messy and you will basically have all manner of component laying haphazard but it will work and Cost under $45.

The following components are the "nice-to-have" items which will account for remaking the connectors, mounting the new regulator/rectifier, having clean connections, and keeping the side compartment clean.

2 x 5x3 1/8 MNDG Plate NP35 - $1.88 for both
-Unlike the majority of guys here I don't have a huge machine shop and ways to take a chunk of aluminum and bend it to my will. I went to lowes and found this item in the siding area. It's small, easy to drill, cheap, and fits perfectly vertically where the old reg/rec sits.

Crown Bolt Nylon Lock Nuts #10-24 – $1.18
Home Depot

Crown Bolt Cap Screw Button Socket #10-24 1 ½” – $2.28
Home Depot
-These two are for mounting the rectifier to the mounting plate


More to follow at this point. I have the waterproof connectors on order and plan on taking out the entire installation for thorough picture taking. Wires need to be trimmed and run in a more permanent fashion. Once I get the permanent solution in place I will complete, just want to start capturing components before I destroy the receipt evidence!!!

Here is the current wiring diagram:

[sgtslag]

Excellent!  This is exactly what is needed -- can be applied to virtually every bike with an electro-magnet based, alternator; these components should be beefy enough to work on any sized bike, and that is a very good, universal thing...  Looking forward to seeing the rest of this 'how to' article.  Cheers!

[trapper]

Wow... That's pretty damn cool. That could come in real handy to a lot of folks. This should get pinned to the top in the help section :) Well done man.

[Manual]

So far in my testing it has been pretty beefy. What I mean is that the RPM to voltage test is typically higher than you would see with a known good OEM reg/rec. Sitting at 2krpm the output is usually at 13 volts plus so it is actually charging at lower RPMs. I have also never seen it exceed 14.2 volts so I don't have a concern that it is actually overcharging, but more likely being efficient.

The bike has been grounded for a week while my new tires got lost by UPS then re-ordered. I am also waiting on the wiring harnesses I ordered to show what the mounting looks like. Currently it is NOT pretty, but it is working. More to follow on this as soon as my connectors come in.