Choke cable replacement?!

[JPSmee]

One problem I've noticed with my bike is that the choke didn't appear to do anything (the choke cable seemed like it was severed, as I could pull the knob out until the cable itself was showing, and keep pulling . . .). I ordered a new cable (even has a new knob! ) and started to remove the old cable.

That's when I discovered that the old cable was actually intact, just not actually connected to anything.

I downloaded the DOAC manual, and it's woefully scant on details on where the choke cable actually connects. As I've mentioned in other threads, I've got nearly no experience with this stuff (although each new thing I try is adding to my knowledge ).

I do have the new cable threaded through the frame and the knob is installed as it should be.

Does anyone have any clear pictures of where this cable is supposed to go?

I do have the full airbox, and that is definitely making working in that area highly frustrating (large hands). Is this something I need to remove before proceeding?

[mikefootusa]

Hey JP,
I just ran into a similar circumstance after rebuilding my carbs I attached the throttle cables before sliding in the carbs...but did not do the choke cable.  I suggest removing the seat and tank.  With a long thin screwdriver you can reach down and guide the end barrel of the cable around the slotted cam of the choke...and hold it in place (a helper would make it easier) then from the right side of the bike using a small flashlight and another long thin screwdriver (or pointed dental tool) wiggle the barrel into the slot and pull up on the cable when it's aligned, tighten the clamp temporarily and then adjust the choke.

[Piute]

  Mine is a pain also I learned to take off what was nessery just to do it easley,cause getting inthere with the box in way is  can be done and have but to many times already,to good at it.

[JPSmee]

Where does the cable actually attach to the carbs?

[Piute]

 on mine therres what looks like 2 bent up fingers(metal) that craddel the barrel end,and cable is guilded between them being that theres 2 peaces holding it ,dang camera isn't working,best i can say

[mikefootusa]

Box side of the carbs between #2 and #3 carbs.  You should see a clamp plate sticking up.

[JPSmee]

Woo! I got it.

Thanks for the help everyone!

[seestheday]

Hi,
I've been thinking of replacing my choke cable for a while as I think it is stretched.  When I pull it out I have to pull it until a little bit of the cable is showing before it stops.  Is it stretched or is this normal?  It's also held on by a zip tie, and I'm assuming that this is part of the problem.

After it has warmed up for a while with me holding it out all of the way I can give it a little turn and it will stay out but the idle will go down (this is usually what I think of as 1/2 choke).  If I turn it again so it goes in there is no difference when it is 1/2 pushed in or all the way pushed it.

JPS sorry to hijack your thread but it sounds like you got your issue sorted out.

[JPSmee]

Okay, today is the first day I've attempted to start up since the new cable was installed. Things started out well . . .

I got the engine to run, opened the choke and noted an almost immediate shift in the RPMs (increase). Closed the choke and saw the inverse. So far, so good.

I took the bike for a short ride around the block, no issues.

I then decided to take it on the highway, and that's when my problems began. I noted that the throttle seemed sluggish (best way I can think to describe it), and overall the bike felt underpowered from what it used to do. Once I managed to get to about 60mph, I noted my RPM would not exceed 5000, and in fact it began to slowly decline (even if I opened the throttle up full). I pulled over and as soon as I pulled the clutch, the engine stalled (was at about 2500 RPM at the time this happened).

I had a really hard time starting it again, but when I did, I noticed that my RPMs were at/below 1000, and it was really rough (even a few popping sounds, which I had never heard my bike make before). I feel that at this point I should clarify that my choke was closed at this point, which is essentially the state it was always in before I installed the new cable as the old one wasn't even connected.

Anyhow, the bike died again. I managed to get it started and the best speed I could get was 20mph. I essentially limped back home from there.

Does anyone know what the heck is going on? Should I have just left well enough alone and not installed this cable?

[TOOLS1]

Your description is confusing. Are the butterfly s open, or closed when the bike is running good?
TOOLS

[JPSmee]

The bike was running fine when the choke cable was not connected (I believe this is the same configuration it would have if the choke cable was pushed in, based on how it looks)

[TOOLS1]

OK that is open. Is there any way that the cable is closing the choke? Also could, you have dislodged some gunk in the fuel system while installing the cable?
TOOLS

[JPSmee]

When I pull on the choke cable knob, it does pull on the connection to the choke itself (it pulls up). As best I can tell, there is no way that the choke it being closed while operating.

Not sure if that answers the question.

As for the gunk, that is a distinct possibility. I had sanded down the tank and repainted it prior to reinstalling it. Much dust was flying in my garage during the process. What is the best way to clean that out?

[TOOLS1]

Install an in line filter. You will also need to clean the fuel inlets, and jets in the carbs.
TOOLS

[JPSmee]

Would this work for the filter?

Filter

Also, what is the size of the tube?

[TOOLS1]

Yes, and should be 1/4 inch.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

I like the clear fuel filters.That way you can see if it is blocked up without having to question.Also,at a glance you know if it needs to be replaced before you leave the house.I also like to keep one in my pocket when i ride.The clear ones i use have a sintered bronze element which seems to filter very well and i can get them in town for $3 each.

[JPSmee]

Problem fixed!

First off, thanks for the assist everyone . I got the fuel filter (and a new fuel line while I was at it) put in with no problem.

When I was done with the fuel line, I found myself looking at my tank. That's when I spotted the culprit . . .

See, when I took my tank off to paint it, there was still fuel in it. My petcock is a little sensitive to the touch, so much so that it can still leak fuel when set to 'Off' if it is so much as looked at. To prevent getting gas all over the place, I taped off the nipple.

Guess what was still there?

I had evidently managed to put the fuel line over the tape, and in the process move enough of the tape to let just a trickle of fuel make it to the carbs. I quickly removed the tape, and put everything back together. Voila! perfect engine start-up and performance. I even took her out for a quick test ride, all the responsiveness was back.

Who would have thought all the bike needed was some gas?

[shinyribs]

You know,buddy,sometimes there is nothing wrong with not telling yourself.Glad you got it sorted out!

[LukeM]

I learned a lesson from an old Navy guy who used to work on old tube equipment on ships:

"There's nothing in the world like a good visual inspection."

And he was right.  We were working on large circuit boards (12" x 18") with upwards of 250 components on them. Hand soldered by the ladies in production.  Very rarely would one of them work on the first try. He and I got into the habit of examining them with a large glass, checking each solder joint and track.  It would take about 2 hours per board, but we were able to get 90% of them working just by checking them over.

The others were due to bad components (infant mortality) or something hidden under another component (copper trace or whisker on the board).

Those were the days.  I'm glad you found the problem, and resolved it.  On to the next thing.
Luke M