Coil Problems? Or Points?

[76CB750WR]

Here is a pic of the bike that is near finish. I cant figure it out. Maybe someone can help. The bike will start and run fine sitting still. But once on the road i will maybe go a mile or so and the bike will die. It will not restart. I dont think its getting spark and floods out. After an hour or so. It will start again and run fine until it gets on the road again. PLEASE HELP!!!

[Rod_Knockin]

Does any fuel leak out the over flows on the carbs? Could be a sticky float. Or poor fuel flow (again sticky float) that when you sit the float bowls fill up but when you accelerate you drain the bowls faster than you can fill them. How does it die? Just cut off cold or does it lose power and sputter down?

Did you re jet for running with out the airbox?

By the way I really like the look of the bike. Sweet!

[CB750Winger]

 Sounds like a fuel problem such as floats or needles sticking. I can't tell which side your fuel shutoff is but if it's on the left side, could be when you stand it up and ride, the fuel level goes below the tube inside the tank. Don't ask how I know.......ok, this is how I found out my reserve valve was plugged up. It ran ok for about a mile and sputtered to a stop.

[woodsrider250-2]

When bike dies pull a plug and see if they're wet.  Stator/etc could be braking down when hot.  I, like you seem to already be thinking, am doubting carburation.

Sweet bike, love the wheels/tires.  No front brake has to be exciting.  Cafe Racer/Flat tracker....LOL.

Also, those older carbs are much easier to run sans airbox compared to the DOHC carbs....

[Rod_Knockin]

If you feel its spark pull the plug and check and then put the plug back in the wire and lay it against the head for a ground and crank the motor to see if you can see the spark. You could even do this test with just a spare plug with out pulling the original plug.

[76CB750WR]

actually is does sputter out just before it dies. then i cant get it to restart until like an hour later. i checked alot of the wiring today the only thing that would not ohm out is the diode on the battery box. i think it was due to my nuetral light shorting out. But i guess i need to check out the floats cause now that i think back it starts doing it when i take a hard right... but the idle jumps around quite a bit. it hard to get it to stay at one set point i keep having to adjust it as it gets warmer. if u leave the gas on the it will over flow but i am not  sure from where yet... Let me know what u think my symptoms are a cause of. thanks for the props on the bike.

[CB750Winger]

   Check your floats for sure and take the jets out to make sure they are clear. With your intake and exhaust that way, you may need to re-jet and if the needle jets are the adjustable ones, may need to move those up or down. Do all the plugs look the same and what color are they? Coils can overheat but I think this is rare. You can also check voltage regulator setting behind left side cover, there are gap specs for that. I'm still thinking fuel problem, could even be a restricted fuel shut off valve on the tank. Float setting is criticle on these.

[76CB750WR]

well i checked the floats they all seem to be working fine. i think i will try the slow jet needles on each carb and see if that helps. they are only turned out 1 revolution. when i had it running before i am pretty sure they were turned out almost 3 rev's. so maybe that will help? i am thinkin still its electrical. maybe a stator going bad and its draining my battery. or maybe a coils like i thought originally. i am not sure its just gonna take time to narrow it down i guess.

[CB750Winger]

  Could be electrical but I think you are talking about your air/fuel mixture screws. They should be 1 - 1 1/2 turns out from seat to start with and adjust to high idle from there. The high speed and slow jets are beside the float needles inside the bowls. The needle jets come out the carb tops and are attached to the throttle slides. They may have 5 positions of adjustment. If you pull the spark plugs out, the condition will tell the story. When it sputters and dies, pull the plugs and hold them on the head to check spark to see if the coils are failing. Could be the stator but usually when they go bad, they are bad for good. Valve clearance, point gap and condition, timing, cam chain tension and fuel delivery are most often the culprits.

[76CB750WR]

where should i start?

[76CB750WR]

where should i start?

[CB750Winger]

  Easy things first, look inside your gas tank with a flashlight above the fuel valve and see if there is crud or rust around it. Turn the fuel valve off. Take the sediment bowl off bottom of fuel shut off valve and dump it. Take a cup under the valve with the bowl off and see how the gas runs when you turn the valve on. Next, pull all the spark plugs out. Tan is perfect, white is lean or sucking air, black sooty is too much fuel. Keep in mind that long periods of idling will make the plugs sooty looking. It almost sounds to me like you are running out of gas, and when it sits for a while, gas is slowly trickeling back in to fill the float bowls. Could be the problem from the tank to the carbs getting fuel. I might be way off here but I've had too many weird things happen. If you can get a Honda or Clymer shop manual is great to have.

[76CB750WR]

i have a clymer manual but its not much help for trouble shooting. just repair and pm's. but i recharged my battery it went dead on me.  so i am gonna try and restart it again today and see if any of the things i have tried are going to work.... hopefully its not the coils. But even if it is i guess they are not too expensive.

[76CB750WR]

so i took the bowls off the carbs and the floats are not sticking and they are getting plenty of fuel. i am still thinking something is draining my battery and killing it. maybe a bad stator or point gaps. not sure.

[CB750Winger]

  Could be you just have a bad battery or voltage regulator is not working right. On mine, the regulator is a small box behind the left side cover. You can unplug it and remove from the bike. Take the cover off and check to see if it's burned inside. There should be a gap setting spec in your manual. I think one is .025" and the other is .012" but don't quote me on that. If you have a volt meter, check the volts on the battery with the bike off and running. With the bike running, you should have around 13 volts above idle 14 - 14 1/2 volts above 2500 rpm's. You may have a short somewhere. Those can be tough to find. Let me know what you find out.

[woodsrider250-2]

Do you have to charge the battery to restart it?  If not, then no.