Ever have some extra money in your pocket...

[LukeM]

...and find one of these at an auction?  1971 CB175 SuperSport (if you can call a bike with 20HP a super sport).  It spent most of its life in a garage apparently.  Less than 700 miles (although I think the speedo has been replaced).

The price was right at $700, when Triumphs, BSAs, and Nortons were going for large dollars.  

Bit of rust in the gas tank, so I'm waiting to flush it out before I run it.  Also need to put in some fuel filters and the correct petcock (dual outlets instead of a single and a tee at the carbs).  But it did start with a little shot of starting fluid, so that's a win in my book.

Updates to follow.
Luke M

[TOOLS1]

Extra money? Great find!!!!
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

It really sucks being 6'3" and 225lbs. :( I'd love to have something like that.

Congrats and nice find, bud. I'm glad a survivor like that is going to a good home and not getting cut up to accommodate current fads. Very much looking forward to updates.

[shinyribs]

Is the center stand tweaked? Taller than stock tires? Not picking, was just admiring it again and noticed both feet were on the ground.

[Re-run]

Maybe longer rear shocks.

[TOOLS1]

Those are aftermarket shocks.
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[Maz]

I absolutely LOVE the small Honda twins. In the UK you would have had to pay about $2000 (£1400) for that! It looks like a nice example.

Maz

[LukeM]

Well, after swishing out the gas tank to get rid of the crud, and charging the almost dead battery, I was able to get the engine running. The battery isn't beefy enough to use the electric start all the time, so it took some kicks to get it going. It responds pretty slowly to throttle, but eventually gets up in the RPM range.  I hit maybe 30 in 3rd gear, with the throttle wide open.  The mufflers are blown out on the bottom, about halfway between the footpeg and the output end.  As a result, it's pretty noisy.

So I'm guessing the carbs need yet another cleanout, and adjustments throughout.  It shifts OK, brakes OK, and the tires are pretty new as well.  The tach doesn't spin, probably due to a broken or not meshed gear at the engine end (didn't see the cable inside spinning).

Next step is to get the carbs torn down and rebuilt, set the floats, and clean out the jets very thoroughly. Then some mufflers (as I expect it'll run better with a little back pressure). Then de-rusting the tank (might go the vinegar route, or maybe Evaporust if I don't care about the paint).  I do have the FSM from hondatwins.net (one of TOOLS's other hangouts).

Luke M

[LukeM]

Time for a 6 month check-in on this project:

Turns out the bike may be easier to get operational than it would to get it titled...

The lady who was the original owner was also the notary public who notarized the bill of sale.
The bike was never titled, and she bought it new back in 1971.
Ohio is the biggest PITA when it comes to titling stuff, especially if you have to go through all their channels.  I visited the BMV, and was given a packet of information, forms, and a flowchart (seriously?!?) on the process.

Given that it'll probably cost me upwards of $400 to get this thing legal, I'm wondering if it's worth it to just sell it as a complete parts bike to someone on this forum, and let them deal with the legalities.

The bike does run, albeit not well.
The tank will need a good cleaning.
The stock mufflers are corroded badly, and will need to be replaced.
The battery does hold a charge.
The tires are brand new, maybe 10 miles on them (from pushing it here and there).
The seat looks very good, no cracks or tears.
I have a couple of rebuild kits for the carbs.

If you are interested in this bike, let me know via PM, and we'll try to work this out.  All I can offer you is a bill of sale (not notarized by me, of course) and a wish that you'll have better luck in your state than I did with mine.

Luke M

[Truck]

Before you sell it I may have an idea. In Virginia it is supposed to be very easy to get a title. "sell" it to someone, have them get the title, then "sell" it back to you. Also you may want to see if you can just get a Va title on your own.

[TOOLS1]

Use this service. http://www.motorecyclenow.com/title-service.html I know 3 people that have used this service to have their motorcycles titled, and it works.
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[LukeM]

I will give these people a call and see what it's all about.  Thanks for the link!
Luke M

[rich]

I got a plate from Vermont for one of my Chinese enduros. Here's what I did. You only need a bill of sale (it doesn't need to be notarized). You will pay sales tax on the purchase amount and fee, but overall it's much less than using a service. Onece you've got the registration you can at least ride it. You may also be able to title it in your state using the Vermont registration (see the link below for how the guy in PA did it).

Here are some posts I made on another site about the process:

I sent in a registration application to Vermont. Sent them $74 for registration and sales tax (went with $500 for the value so as not to raise any flags).

 I just followed the guidance posted at http://www.chinonthetank.com/2014/04/get-a-title-with-a-vermont-registration/. Filled out form, attached bill of sale, computed sales tax + fees, attached check, and mail it all in. That was on 14 August. On 26 August, they deposited the check. Got the tag on 29 August.

If you foul something up, don't worry, they will just send your check back. Highly recommended!

[rich]

P.S. I didn't send them a picture of the bike or proof of insurance or even get insurance before I got the tag.

I received the registration and expiration sticker for the tag on 11 Sept. I guess that's all there's is to it. The registration serves as the "proof of ownership". I'll wait until next spring to try and transfer it to Kansas.

[LukeM]

Turns out I don't need to go through all the legal schenanigans.  The previous owner found the title!  They were digging through the papers for income tax filing, and found the title.  They are signing it over to me later this week.

I don't know why that's such a load off of my mind, but it is.

Now I can take that money and put it into the CB175.  I also removed it from the For Sale section, as I think I'll hold onto it and fix it up.  Should be pretty cool to roll up to the next VJMC meeting.

Thank you all for your help and suggestions.  I appreciate it very much.
Luke M

[LukeM]

I thought I'd give you an update on Avenger Jr.

Since it's mine in the eyes of Ohio law, I've been putting a little money and sweat into this little guy.

The original mufflers were REALLY shot underneath, and the baffles were all rusted out and rattly.  I rigged up some Emgo megaphone replacements, and they look pretty close to the factory items.  All chrome-y and shiny and stuff.

The carbs have been apart at least twice, with a full rebuild using parts from Rusty Riders.  Nice shiny brass bits, and LOTS of clean out.  Turns out these carbs are very fussy about float height.  Spec is 21mm.  One carb was set at 25, and it just wouldn't go.

So, I finally get it running on both cylinders, but the tach is still at zero.  Great: broken cable.  Replaced that, and found it's idling at about 4500.  I check the cables pulling on the sliders of the carbs, and one of them has a serious bend/kink at the carb end.  I'm thinking that is pulling both carbs open to half throttle.  Time to order another cable.

Then the battery just up and dies on me.  Went from 13v down to .6v.  Go figure.  Battery is on order.

So, the good news is: it's running.  It's needing little bits here and there.

Oh, one more thing. It had some surface rust on the inside of the gas tank, so I went to O'Reilly's to get a gallon of Evapo-Rust.  Loaded the 2 gallon tank up, shook it good, and rotated it about every 2-3 hours so each inside surface got at least some contact with the solution.  Poured it out, and it was rusty soupy stuff coming out.  I was fortunate to fog it with some spray SeaFoam before it flash rusted.  I can recommend this method if the rust is fairly light.  Heavier stuff may require some BBs, hardware, and considerably more agitation in order to dislodge the big rust pieces.

If you're curious, hunt me down on hondatwins.net  username LRM and see what you think.

Comments?
Luke M

[Re-run]

I bet that little guy will be fun once you have it sorted out. There are times when a small bike is a lot of fun just to putter around on.

[LukeM]

I took a closer look at the rear tire, and it's a 3.50 x 18, vs. 3.00 x 18.  I agree, the shocks may be after market as well.

No side stand.  Gonna have to see if I can scrounge one of those.  The center stand may need some tweaking as well.

Luke M

[LukeM]

This week's work:
Tank is nice and clean, carbs have been apart 2-3 times, and float level checked and verified at 21mm. Dead acid battery replaced with an AGM. Set the idle screws 2 turns out, mixture screws 1 turn out. Then I turned on the choke, and hit the starter. After about 10 seconds of cranking, it goes to 5000 rpm and stays there. I backed the idle screws out until the idle settled in about 2000. I then adjusted the mixture screws to about the middle of the best range, and let it idle for a while.
Took it out for a quick spin around the block, and it pulls nicely in all gears. Then on the way home, it started sputtering and bogging down. Got it home, and it looks like the right side plug lead is loose. Maybe it's time for a new ignition coil and plug caps, as I did the trim-it-back-a-quarter-of-an-inch-back-and-cram-the-cap-on trick. Left side is fine.

So, it's getting closer, but it's not there yet. Man, this is fun revving this thing up to 7-8K on the tach, and thinking this is normal. My '84 Shadow will do that, but I get the feeling it's not happy at that level.

More updates to follow.
Luke M