Change out all of the fluids: oil, brake fluid, and ATF fluid in the front forks. I would suggest using
SeaFoam in the oil crankcase: add 1-1/2 oz. per quart, or 5-1/2 oz. (3.7 quarts of oil), run it for five minutes, idling, shifting through all five gears, to circulate it through the transmission. This will allow it to warm up to 180 F, operating temperature. This will dissolve gum, varnish, and carbon deposits. Drain the oil, change the filter (most of this crud will be caught in the filter), and add in fresh oil of your choice. I recommend
Shell Rotella T6 5W-40: it is diesel, but rated SL for cars; it is highly detergent, so it will keep your engine clean forever. It will also go 10,000 miles between changes.
Add some
SeaFoam to the forks, before draining the fluid. You will need to compress the forks afterwards, 5-10 times to dissolve deposits within them. Then drain the old, and fill with fresh
Dexron IV/V ATF ($3/quart, versus $15/quart for Fork Oil). ATF is thermally stable -- it won't change viscosity when its temperature changes, which is exactly what Fork Oil does. ATF works the same as Fork Oil, at 1/5 the cost.
Add 1 oz. of
SeaFoam per gallon of gas, to the tank: it will dissolve varnish in the tank, and the entire fuel system. Run it as long as possible, before re-filling with fresh gas.
Do NOT use
SeaFoam in the brake system! Put fresh fluid of the correct type in the system, and flush it/bleed it. I would recommend
SpeedBleeder's as they make it a simple, one-man job:
www.speedbleeder.com. Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII