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Ok so i noticed my left fork leakin a little on my 75 cb750. Im not sure if its a k or f or what so if you know how to tell let me know. Anyway im getting new fork seals and was wondering how i go about refilling the forks. I read here that ATF can be used, any specific kind?
Any advice is much appreciated im very new at this.
I put about 100 miles a day on this driving from RockHill SC to Charlotte NC so i need to get this fixed ASAP
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Administrator
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If you look on the vin plate on the neck of your bike, it will say if it is a K or F. I don't think it matters for your bike though, the seals should be the same.
As for atf, I suppose typical dextron type should work but I prefer actual for fork fluid. I used a 7 weight oil.
It is a bit more expensive but I have not had to do my forks for over a decade now. So it works for me.
The ride IS the adventure. The destination is just to get gas!
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If, you check out the "My Buddies POW/MIA Bike" in the build section, I go over changing fork seals step by step. I use Dexron/Mercon ATF in all Honda forks. The CB 750 will take 5.5 oz in each fork. Just remove the big nut on top, and use a skinny funnel.
Also how do, you handle that Charlotte traffic? I used to live in Waxhaw, and hated having to drive to/through Charlotte. Those people think merging is a personal insult.
TOOLS
Life is not about the number of breaths, you take, but the moments that take your breath away.
I don't have an anger problem. I have an idiot problem. Hank Hill
Never confuse education for intelligence.
Happiness is a belt fed weapon.
I just can't imagine what could go wrong.
No fire? No explosions? So whats the point of your story?
Those who are too smart to engage in politics are punished by being governed by those who are dumber. ~Plato
It couldn't be done, but the darn fool didn't know it, and did it anyway.
We all got problems. Ksharp
I like vintage bikes because they take me away from the clutter of technology that I work with everyday and back to a simpler time of mechanical elegance and simplicity.. "ninadm"
Darkwing Duck: The worst part of public transportation is the Public.
"That is awesome shit there" Re-Run
"Fear nothing, attack everything" Eric Berry
" Oh, you read that on the internet? Clearly it IS a massive problem. Of course it CAN’t be normal operation."
1976 CB 750-A X 2
1977 CB 750-A X 4
1977 CB 750-K
1976 CB 750 F
1981 CB 750
1966 Kawasaki SG 250
1981 KZ 750 LTD
1973 CB 350
1979 CM 185 Twinstar
1982 Honda XL 80
South of Eden (Kansas City MO)
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Dexron III is specified for 1979 CB750K's, but the current, Dexron IV/V will work, as it is backwards compatible, just like it is in cars. The key to fork hydraulic fluid is that it remain absolutely stable in viscosity, which is uber-critical for transmission fluid, as well. Fork Oil is very highly refined oil, uber-stable in viscosity, and uber-expensive, around $15 per quart, available in various viscosities (typically 5-20). Dexron IV/V Automatic Transmission Fluid is available everywhere, for an average price of $4 per quart.
Fork Oil/ATF wears out, from repeated abuse suffered within the forks. It is recommended that it be replaced every two years -- nothing lasts forever.
The various viscosities of Fork Oil give different stiffness levels, on the forks' compression rates while riding. Some folks like it hard, some like it soft. Typically, the heavier the viscosity (15, 20), the stiffer the response. The lower the viscosity (5, 7, 10), the softer the response to bumps, by the fork tubes. The actual viscosity of Dexron ATF is allegedly around 8.
Fork Gators will prevent bug remains (chiton shell material) from sticking in the fork tubes. This chiton is razor sharp, and it cuts up the fork seals, causing them to eventually leak ATF/Fork Oil. Adding Fork Gators (even if your bike wasn't equipped with them), will double the life of your fork seals. At least, that is the theory, which is generally accepted. Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII
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HAHA yeah im not a big fan of traffic but gotta do what you gotta do. I have figured out that they do not know how to drive at all if the sun is not shining. When wet stuff comes they loose their minds.
As far as the seals go i will be getting them hopefully next week and then i will be following your guide. Thank you all very much for the quick response.
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So anyone here ever use Vintage CB750 to order parts from. How long do they tend to take to ship things and are they dependable.
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Yep I have. Been awhile but do not recall any issues.
Harvey
On May 16, 2012 2:37 PM, "cwl111286 [via Honda CB750'S]" < [hidden email]> wrote:
So anyone here ever use Vintage CB750 to order parts from. How long do they tend to take to ship things and are they dependable.
American by birth. Cowboy by choice!
Vero Beach, FL
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo172/grandpaslinger/HD%20Road%20Glide/IMAG0046.jpg
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Administrator
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Vintagecb750 is always great. Never heard a complaint yet.
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Anyone know a safe automotive oil for these bikes.
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Im also still trying to figure out the model of this bike. What identifying features should it have for a 1975 cb750k vs and f. Also im assuming its a 75 because the plate says built august of 1974. going off of automotive knowledge did they do the same with motorcycles as far as making the next years model a year ahead. otherwise this bike is a 74 cb750 k or f. Still learning about these bikes. Any helpful info is much appreciated.
Thanks guys
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I think K's run from up to 1976.
On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 4:22 PM, cwl111286 [via Honda CB750'S] <[hidden email]> wrote:
Im also still trying to figure out the model of this bike. What identifying features should it have for a 1975 cb750k vs and f. Also im assuming its a 75 because the plate says built august of 1974. going off of automotive knowledge did they do the same with motorcycles as far as making the next years model a year ahead. otherwise this bike is a 74 cb750 k or f. Still learning about these bikes. Any helpful info is much appreciated.
Thanks guys
American by birth. Cowboy by choice!
Vero Beach, FL
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo172/grandpaslinger/HD%20Road%20Glide/IMAG0046.jpg
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Administrator
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You can use any Dexron/Mercon ATF fluid. Your forks should hold 5.5 oz each. As, for your model. Can, you post a picture? Does it have spokes, or Comstar mags? Honda did make the K model well into the 90's with the Nighthawk. However since your bike was made in 74 I am betting it is a K, and not an F.
TOOLS
Life is not about the number of breaths, you take, but the moments that take your breath away.
I don't have an anger problem. I have an idiot problem. Hank Hill
Never confuse education for intelligence.
Happiness is a belt fed weapon.
I just can't imagine what could go wrong.
No fire? No explosions? So whats the point of your story?
Those who are too smart to engage in politics are punished by being governed by those who are dumber. ~Plato
It couldn't be done, but the darn fool didn't know it, and did it anyway.
We all got problems. Ksharp
I like vintage bikes because they take me away from the clutter of technology that I work with everyday and back to a simpler time of mechanical elegance and simplicity.. "ninadm"
Darkwing Duck: The worst part of public transportation is the Public.
"That is awesome shit there" Re-Run
"Fear nothing, attack everything" Eric Berry
" Oh, you read that on the internet? Clearly it IS a massive problem. Of course it CAN’t be normal operation."
1976 CB 750-A X 2
1977 CB 750-A X 4
1977 CB 750-K
1976 CB 750 F
1981 CB 750
1966 Kawasaki SG 250
1981 KZ 750 LTD
1973 CB 350
1979 CM 185 Twinstar
1982 Honda XL 80
South of Eden (Kansas City MO)
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<quote author="rrgunslinger"> I think K's run from up to 1976.
: I BELIEVE YOUR RIGHT(F1) a "77" IS a F2 AND THEY(F2) GO INTO 80S
1977 CB750 F2 Super Sport
<LET THOSE WHO RIDE DECIDE><RIDE TO LIVE-LIVE FOR JESUS>
Native American from central Cal, Kickstand UP in S.W.Missouri,
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If you mean for the engine, anything that is free of the "energy star" symbol: oils with the energy star symbol, have friction modifiers, which supposedly cause the clutch to slip... Other than that, I recommend Shell Rotella T6 diesel oil: rated API SN, for cars; 5W-40 viscosity range (thinner, when cold, for easier start-up's); high levels of detergent to keep the engine/transmission clean; available everywhere; highly refined dino oil which behaves like a genuine synthetic, even though it is not a true synthetic. Otherwise, Mobil 0W-40 European Formula, full synthetic is even better, but it runs around $6.80/quart, whereas the Shell runs around $5.50/quart, when purchased as a gallon container, from Wal-Mart. Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII
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So, you get some funny looks buying diesel oil for a motorcycle. The guy at autozone just looked at me like an idiot and tried to sell me motorcycle oil at way too much per quart. HAHA
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Go to Wal-Mart, if possible. They have the Shell T6 at the lowest price I've found yet: ~$21/gallon jug, everyday price. No one asks any questions there.
I've tried to locate the T6 in bulk format, even on-line, but no luck. I run it in every engine I've got, as it is basically a universal oil (even my 1965 air compressor -- had to use it last winter, in sub-freezing temps, and the straight 30-weight, non-detergent oil was so stiff, it would not turn over; drained that crap, filled it with the Shell, and the T6 spun it over like it was summer, and in the 80's!). The only way I've found to buy the T6 in bulk (say, 10-15 gallons, a 2-3 year supply), was by the 80-gallon drum (this would last me around 20 years...). Mills Fleet Farm did, however, sell it by the box of four, one-gallon jugs; the price was the same as the individual jugs, so no savings going that route. Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII
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