In 1975, they pretty much only had sealed beam headlights -- if one of the two filaments burned open/out, you had no choice but to replace the whole unit.
If you have a volt meter, with a resistance/Ohmmeter, or continuity tester, connect it across the bulb connectors: there is a common ground, and then the Hi/Low filament connectors. Measure the resistance across the Hi and Low beam connectors, and ground: either they will measure very low resistance (<5 Ohms = good filament), or open (Infinite Ohms = bad filament, filament is burned out/open). If both filaments are good, then the problem is your circuit wiring, and/or controls (very unlikely....).
I bought a standard, 7", sealed beam, Halogen headlight, at Napa, last year, for $11. Measure your old headlight, and see if it is a standard 7", automotive lamp. You do not need to buy the expensive, name brand bulb -- they all work, and they are all designed for rough usage (cars bounce pretty hard, shaking, and thudding, the bejeezus out of the headlights and their burning filaments...). If you want to convert to an H4, with replaceable bulbs, you can do so: purchase a round, H4 Lamp Assembly of the correct size. Note, however, that H4 bulbs are dual filament bulbs, too. The other option is to buy an HID kit for your bike -- expensive, but only one 'bulb', sans filaments, with only one level of beam power. Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII