Is this CB750F a Good Buy?

[excessivedemon]

Hey Motogrady, thanks so much for all the help - still did not manage to get the broken bleeder out but front brake is biting really good and it does not seem it needs any bleeding in the mean time so will have to tackle that at a later time - the rear brake is a different story, right now it's totally dead, I can't bleed it till I have purchased the necessary tools.

I did manage to get it to spit less smoke now - had to run the thing, rev it up a number of times, and just go run it a number of miles at varying speeds - the shocks seem to be working a lot better now as well (after running it a number of miles) so I'm really very happy about how things are coming

One thing I've noticed though, it seems very difficult (almost close to impossible) to shift from first gear to neutral (even with clutch pressed if the engine is running - if the engine is not running it seems fine - I don't know if this is because I'm using rubber shoes) - is this how it really is supposed to be? There does not seem to be any problems shifting to neutral from other gears (since it's just pressing half down with other gears compared to half up from first gear), only from first gear.

I haven't placed any oil on the chain as well so might have to do that before doing another run - my fuel lines got cracked (probably due to age / heat / sudden rain while I was riding) the thing was pissing fuel on the fuel lines so I had to go back home and fix it.

[TOOLS1]

These transmissions are designed to go into neutral from second gear, and not first. This is to prevent hitting neutral while accelerating, and over revving the engine. Also never shift the transmission without disengaging the clutch.
TOOLS  

[motogrady]

Ya, I've noticed Tools, my bike will not, well, it's real hard, to shift without using the clutch.
Coming from the dirt side, a place where the clutch is rarely used, it has taken a bit to get used to.

I know it all works better, looking for neutral, to do it while the bike is still moving.

[seestheday]

My bike is like this. Easy to find neutral while the bike is moving.   Very difficult if it's stopped.

Sent from my BlackBerry device

From: motogrady [via Honda CB750'S]

Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2013 10:08 AM

To: seestheday

Subject: Re: Is this CB750F a Good Buy?

Ya, I've noticed Tools, my bike will not, well, it's real hard, to shift without using the clutch.
Coming from the dirt side, a place where the clutch is rarely used, it has taken a bit to get used to.

I know it all works better, looking for neutral, to do it while the bike is still moving.

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[excessivedemon]

Thanks so much for this info tools, now I know it's not something wrong with my transmission  it's a feature not a bug lol

I got a really quick question - is it safe to get the bike going (from a full stop) using second gear instead of first gear? Or is it recommended that we always get the bike going using first gear?

I ask because driving most diesel vans / trucks it's usually OK starting at second gear immediately instead of first gear - with stop and go traffic conditions where I'm at (where you'll usually go first gear, brake, neutral, wait for car in front to move a little forward, first gear, brake, neutral, wait again for car in front to move a little forward... and the cycle repeats) it seems more natural to go neutral right after first gear, so if I start in second gear, it won't be a problem shifting to neutral from there.

If it's not a good idea to start from second gear, I guess I'll just have to get myself used to going first gear, second gear, neutral then?

Thanks in advance guys.

[TOOLS1]

The only problem with starting in second gear, is that you will need to slip the clutch more, and this will cause it to wear out sooner.
TOOLS

[excessivedemon]

I see, thanks for the info Tools, wouldn't want my clutch to wear out sooner, will just have to get used to shifting to starting in first gear then shifting to second gear before going to neutral.

I have another question - so I was going through other areas of the bike I need to fix and noticed it had air suspensions on the rear - I see a bunch of nipples on it, one similar to a bike's tire valve - is this supposed to be filled with compressed air similar to the compressed air used to inflate tires available on my local gasoline station or is there a specific type of compressed air that should go here (like the ones they used for nitrogen filling maybe)? Also, what is the other nipple for?

[TOOLS1]

Any compressed air will do.
TOOLS

[excessivedemon]

Thanks Tools - I'm thinking somewhere around 35 PSI should be a good number? Are there any recommended values for the air shocks? I've been trying to search the net but could not find any information about this.

Also, I noticed as I rev up the engine the tachometer picks up and displays the correct RPM (goes up) but it does not go back down even after I can hear the engine RPM dropping back to idle - I checked the cable / connectors and they seem fine. Is there maybe a portion of the gauge I need to oil / clean up / grease so that the needle slides back down as the RPM drops back to idle?

[motogrady]

I used to run air on a few dirtbikes, forks that is, memory tells me 14 psi in each leg
was a good.
But those things weigh less than half your bike,
maybe start at 20 and see how they feel.

you oil that chain yet?

[excessivedemon]

Thanks for the info Motogrady. I started cleaning the chain with wd40 (some fellow told me it's good) - is this recommended and advisable or should I look for other brands?

I started using easy outs to remove the broken bleeder screw but the easy out broke  How do you remove a broken easy out? What could be the safest way to remove both the easy out and the bleeder screw? I guess I'll have to try the welder option next.

[motogrady]

Ah, yer screwed with the broken ezout.
Maybe the welder thing, that might work.
I've heard of guy bleeding by loosening the hose to caliper bolt,
letting the air out that way.

When you have a bolt, screw or whatever that's stuck in alum,
try tapping on it with a small hammer, one side, then the other, a few times,
kinda breaks 'em loose every now and then.

I'd start looking on ebay for a caliper, get one before you really need it so you don't get hosed.

Chain oil, ha, yea the wd40, kerosene, petrol, anything to get the big stuff off.

Wait a minute, there's 2 types of chain, we've been over this, o-ring and naked or straight chain.
If you have an o-ring I wouldn't let the chain soak in cleaning fluid.  Stuff might get past the orings
and defeat the whole idea behind them.  

Just clean it off and get some Bel-Ray, gear oil or anything kinda heavy so it's doesn't sling off too bad at speeD.  I got a can of chain and gear lube at the Advance Auto store in town, maybe 5 USD.
The wd 40 is gonna sling right off that baby.
Best time to oil them, I think, is right after a ride, when the chain is still kinda warm, they
seem to just suck the stuff up that way.  Put it on the stand, spin the rear while in neutral,
load that thing up, and poof, yer good to go.

[excessivedemon]

Thanks Motogrady, just wanted to update the thread - so I've been having fun riding the bike every now and then and I'm really very thankful to all of you guys who have helped me get this thing running. There are just a couple more weird things I have noticed that I need to iron out:

1. When the bike initially starts I hear some sort of metal hitting something somewhere on the engine like "tak tak tak tak" while the RPMS are still low and the engine is not yet warm (I usually have to use the choke) - only after about 5 minutes or more (and when I'm no longer using the choke) and the RPMS seem to have stabilized and the engine is warm do these sounds go away and the engine runs smoother - what could be causing this "tak tak tak tak" sound? Is this normal?

2. I noticed my left exhaust / muffler spits out noticeably darker smoke compared to the right exhaust / muffler - like a 3 is to 1 ratio - what could be causing this? Could it be the plugs? Could it be related to item number 1?

Thanks in advance