Miller welder.

[TOOLS1]

I was at the welding supply store today, and they have 8 Miller 140 welders that were used at some trade show. They were not even used, for an hour. They offered me one with a cart, 80 cubic foot gas cylinder,  a full spool of wire, and a 3 year warranty. All, for 960.00. I'm very tempted, but do not know if I can justify the expense. http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/product.php?model=M00234
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[shinyribs]

That does sound like a good price,but i have never been very impressed with 120v welders.Don't get me wrong there is nothing wrong with them.There is probably nothing on a motor cycle that a 120v won't handle.But,120v can't do what a 240v can...and a 240v can do anything a 120v can and then some.Just a thought.I have two setting in the barn i never use anymore since i went to a 240v.One of them is flux core only and i wouldn't give it to an enemy for free.Gas is the only way to go,in my opinion.

[TOOLS1]

 I have always used a torch to weld thin stuff, and have no problem welding motorcycle frames with a torch. I used to weld root passes in steam pipe with a torch, so I know it is more then adequate, for a motorcycle frame. I have used my fair share of the big industrial units, but never used a 115 volt welder. I like the idea of it not needing 220 since I do tend to move around a lot. Also it could be taken to friends houses to help with projects. I would not use it a whole lot, and when I did it would be mostly sheet metal (body work). I am mostly just trying to talk myself into buying it. I need more stuff cluttering up my garage.

[shinyribs]

You have a good point on the mobility.I hate having to lug mine around when needed.   There's just something fun about welding with a torch,isn't it?

[sgtslag]

The truth is, the supply voltage is not that important -- what matters is the output current to the arc.  The 220 VAC units will definitely put out more amps in the welding arc, no argument there.  It really boils down to how many arc amps you need for the metals you are welding.

That is really the sum total of my welding knowledge...  I am planning to save up for a 120 VAC, DC Inverter Arc Welder, supposedly capable of putting out 110 Amps DC.  I am still in the research stage, so I don't know if the unit I am looking at (simple stick welder, not flux core/gas/etc.) can handle what I might want to use it for, but the price tag is $149, off of e-Bay.  Since I will be a complete noob to welding, I figure this is enough of an investment to check out whether I want to pursue welding any further.  I know it will do light, thin steel (not aluminum...), so I can putter around with it, make some crafty stuff, possibly some useful stuff for the garage.  Here is the direct link for it, if you want to check it out (note that it requires at least a 15 amp circuit, preferably a 20 amp circuit to push it to its limit of 110 amps, for a duty cycle of 20%?):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/INVERTER-ARC-WELDER-120-VOLT-INPUT-MOD-ARC-110-AMPS-/370274725414?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563617ee26

If I am wrong about the arc current thing, let me know.  It makes sense from an electrical, and physics, standpoint, but I could be missing something.    Cheers!

[Ray]

Tools     I bought a Chicago Electric 115volt wire feed from Harbor frieght for 200 bucks. works great for thin metals, but I also have a lincoln stick welder. Getting the wire speed adjusted with the amps are a pain in the ass as everytime someone turns on something in the house, the amps drift and you have to adjust it. my next tool will be a plasma cutter.       good luck

[TOOLS1]

Thanks guy's. Toolbabe was watching me use the torch this evening cutting the spring hanger off the toolhauler, and said "I think, you should buy that welder." However she does like to spend money. I can not take her shopping. I do like to buy tools that I will be able to pass down to the children/grandchildren.
Sarg. That welder should be fine, for what, you want to do. You can use 1/8 inch 7018 rod. That will weld with the amps that the machine is capable of. If, you want to weld anything thicker then 3/16, just bevel the edges, and run multiple passes. 20% duty cycle is standard. And that is, for a machine burning one rod after another as fast as the welder can change them. All day long. The one question I would have is, what size are the leads, and how long are they? However, for the price, you could upgrade to a longer lead, and good quality stinger. I still have the ones I carried onto my jobs (a very good stinger with 15-20 feet of light cord, and a quick coupler that would connect to the company's heavy cords. This way I was not using an old burnt up stinger that would not hold the rod steady, and have 30 pounds of cord slung over my shoulder.) Also just some information, you might find useful. You will want to use it in reverse polarity. Funny thing is, on a DC welder reverse polarity is the stinger is +, and the ground is -. Go figure 
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[shinyribs]

I cannot argue about the arc amperage.I'm not that smart Our(US of A) electricity is 60hz here.When you use two legs of electricity(240v) versus one leg(120v)it "cleans up the sine wave/signal of our somewhat slow signal somehow.Kinda like a car with an x pipe,if you know what i mean.True dual exhaust will have a raspy sound where as a car with an x pipe or balance tube will have a smooth exhaust note. The exhaust pulses are combined and you do not hear the "choppy-ness"of each individual cylinder.Its the best way i could think of to try to explain the electrical signal.sorry. Now,welding with dc voltage,no sine wave,direct not alternating,is a different ball game altogether.I sold my old tig (it was a dc unit) and got a lincoln with what they call square wave dc technology.No clue what that means,but it welds sooo much smoother.Like when you are welding with an old buzz box,an ac stick,and it sounds like your frying bacon,popping and snapping, versus the smooth buzzy hum of a good mig.Thats kinda what im talking about.All depends really what you wanna do with it.Remember that ANY welder welds the smoothest an the middle of it range.If you want to weld thin or sheet metal,and have to turn a big welder way down to do it,its not going to be as easy to use as a smaller welder working in its most effecient heat range.A small welder cranked up to burn,say 3/8" plate,will do it,but it wont be pretty.Just like gauges,they are the most accurate in the middle of their scale,same goes for welders

[TOOLS1]

I bit the bullet, and bought it today. Was really surprised when I went to set it up. the one I got had not even been used. The gun showed no signs of being used at all. I was told that the welders might have been used an hour, or two.
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[shinyribs]

Congrats!See,you made me weld those holes for nothing!Now go fix them right for me

[TOOLS1]

What holes?
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[LukeM]

Shouldn't someone be doing a Tim Allen grunt right about now? :-)

Augh augh augh!

Luke M

[TOOLS1]

More power
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