No electrical, no idea

[relempago]

TOOLS,
Yea if its a bad connection at the battery I'm not finding it.
I did try to disconnect the battery, let the bike sit for and hour or so and then reconnect...Sure enough, full power, kicked over, got it started rode around my neighborhood. Brought it home, felt as though it was running well. Decided to replicate the experience: turned the key kicked it over, works great.
Then, tried the electric start button; everything dead. no power. Disconnect battery, wait 30 mins, reconnect battery, all power back. It seems like the way a circuit breaker performs by tripping and waiting for the full system to de-charge. This is only my naive theory of course.
Is there a switch in the bike that will act that way? I've not been able to find it on a diagram.
Or could this be due to the large draw the electric stater needs when it kills the lights, and somewhere through my lights a ground has failed?
Or just a bad connect at the right hand switch?

Thanks

[TOOLS1]

I have had problems with the light circuits going through the starter button before, and I just bypass the circuit, letting the stay on all the time. Could someone have installed a circuit breaker? I put them on all my bikes.
TOOLS

[78Cafe750]

Did you get this issue resolved?? I'm having the exact same problem with my 1978 cb750

[relempago]

I did, though the solution wasn't a clear and simple path. I methodically went through my electrical system and cut out any kill switches and circuit breakers that weren't part of the original system; I found three, and a few 'extra' wires. There is no telling what the guy before you did to the bike, so i tried to the best of my ability to get it back to spec. Once I did this I noticed my battery no longer needed tending at the same interval as before. I inspected and cleaned all connections as well as replacing my ignition since it was going bad despite trying to take it apart and fix it.
Since then, I haven't had the same problem or a blown fuse (knock on wood). In all i thin it cost me 20$ in wire leads and a new ignition but HOURS to go through and clean. I always shied away from repairing electrical issues, so this was a good learning experience. I'm not sure I entirely know what I'm doing but now  I have an idea of what I don't know.

I wish I had an easy fix solution for you, but it really was just a combing through the system. Hope that helps at all.

Dave

[Vintage guy]

I have a similar problem with my 72 cb750. Came up to a stop sign and the bike died, no electrical, no headlights. Pulled the left side cover and pushed the fuse holder and surprise, electrical back on. Installed a new fuse holder, and the problem was still there. Pushed on the harness ahead of the fuse block and got power. I pulled the loom wrap and can’t find the problem by wiggling and pulling wires.
Question: would a rectifier going bad kill the electrics, on the wiring diagram the fuse lead goes to the rectifier?

[TOOLS1]

The rectifier should not be causing the electrics to go dead like that. It is common for the soldered connections at the rear of the fuse block to deteriorate and cause the electrics to go dead. Since you have replaced the fuse block, you might want to check your new connections. I do not trust the automotive connectors you get at the autoparts stores, it is hard to get a good crimp on them.
TOOLS

[Vintage guy]

Great, thanks for the reply😎

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 22, 2018, at 6:36 AM, TOOLS1 [via Vintage and Classic Honda's] <[hidden email]> wrote:

The rectifier should not be causing the electrics to go dead like that. It is common for the soldered connections at the rear of the fuse block to deterioat and cause the electrics to go dead. Since you have replaced the fuse block, you might want to check your new connections. I do not trust the automotive connectors you get at the autoparts stores, it is hard to get a good crimp on them.
TOOLS

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NAML

[Vintage guy]

Good day again, I’m still chasing some electrical demons. 

I turn the ign sw on and the headlight flash’s, no turns or indicator light.

Question, looking at the starter solenoid on the electrical drawing, coming from the fuse to the solenoid the connector line has an arrow pointing down to the other side of the solenoid. Does this indicate current flow?

I pulled the black and yellow/red wires leading from the solenoid checked for voltage-nothing. Installed them back into the circuit and had power to the starter and horn etc. Does make sense?

I figured the solenoid black would be hot with the ignition on

Hope you can understand this. Thankyou😎

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 22, 2018, at 6:36 AM, TOOLS1 [via Vintage and Classic Honda's] <[hidden email]> wrote:

The rectifier should not be causing the electrics to go dead like that. It is common for the soldered connections at the rear of the fuse block to deterioat and cause the electrics to go dead. Since you have replaced the fuse block, you might want to check your new connections. I do not trust the automotive connectors you get at the autoparts stores, it is hard to get a good crimp on them.
TOOLS

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NAML

[TOOLS1]

All "black" wires are ignition hot. The arrow should indicate "ground", and if your headlight "flashes" you have it connected to the wire from the turn signal flasher that should go to the turn signal switch.
TOOLS

[Vintage guy]

Thanks for the response😎

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 25, 2018, at 9:54 PM, TOOLS1 [via Vintage and Classic Honda's] <[hidden email]> wrote:

All "black" wires are ignition hot. The arrow should indicate "ground", and if your headlight "flashes" you have it connected to the wire from the turn signal flasher that should go to the turn signal switch.
TOOLS

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NAML