Not sure if engine is running lean or rich

[AAchops]

I'm not sure, when I rebuilt my carbs I bought this rebuild kit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141590525474?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

so whatever came with that. Wasn't aware at the time that the air boxes would affect it.

Also at mile high city altitude not sure if that would also make a difference.

[Re-run]

Oh you have a double whammy then. High altitudes also require more air. If you can, pop the bowl off 1 and see if the jets show the sizes. My guess is they will be stock. So, you have pods which allow more air, and you are high altitude. Did the manual give you high altitude setting for the air screws and jet needles?

You should also take out the plugs and get a pic of those. Those will tell if you are lean or rich for sure. We can say all sorts of things but without seeing the plugs, who knows.

[AAchops]

I dont think the manual said anything about setting for high altitude. I just set it according to the specifications because I couldn't find reliable info on altitude setting. Checked jet sizes and they are stock.

Since pods allow more air and high altitude requires that...shouldn't that balance out at least a little? haha only hoping i guess.

ill check the plugs and see whats going on and send over a picture.

[TOOLS1]

The dust boots that came on the round top carbs do not do anything except keep dust off the adjusters, so not having them is not going to affect the running.
TOOLS

[AAchops]

 Going to jump over to my friends shop today and see what we can do but here is a picture of the points, which seem good to my eye. They also look like they have been replaced pretty recently, at least within a few years and the plugs, which I put in new when I bought the bike in may, look ok to my eye aswell. At least no big signs of blackening.

[TOOLS1]

On the points, you have to look at the contact area where the points make contact when they open and close, and on the spark plug, you look at the insulator down inside the center.
TOOLS

[AAchops]

So I partially solved the issue, at least with getting going. The mixture was definitely too lean and after turning the air screws in a turn it worked way better.

Something crazy just happened with my brake though...back brake clunked down really hard when i pressed it trying to stop and it bent the brake arm/actuator

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-NOS-REAR-BRAKE-ARM-CB750K-1969-76-Part-43410-341-700-/201328146791?hash=item2ee017b967&vxp=mtr

any ideas on what could have happened? brake issues? could have been the return spring but i am lost on this one.

[TOOLS1]

That should not have bent. Was it angled forward? They need to angle back a few degrees.
TOOLS

[AAchops]

it was angled a bit but not as much as it is now.




you can tell it bent a little on the back the metal is all flaked and looks almost stretched. The return spring got all bent out of watch and popped off along with the connector rod.

[shinyribs]

The ream drum rotated far enough to do that to the actuator? You must not have a brake stay attached.

[AAchops]

I do have one but it snapped off when braking and then allowed that to happen somehow. Still not really sure how but it pulled the spring attachment that acts as the return spring so far that it broke

On Aug 20, 2015 7:53 PM, "shinyribs [via Honda CB750'S]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

The ream drum rotated far enough to do that to the actuator? You must not have a brake stay attached.

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[shinyribs]

Yeah, when the brake stay comes undone all kinds of bad things happen when the brake starts wrapping strong. Glad it take you down.

How big of a bolt are they using on your chop, since I know we're not talking about stock stuff here