Oil Filter

[jamman18]

Going to change my oil filter on my 1977 cb750f and was looking at the parts schematic.  What do I need to change and what do I keep?  It looks like I need the filter and 1 large o-ring.  It also looks like there is another large and a small one as well as an oil filter bolt.  Any help is appreciated!

[TOOLS1]

I use a Fram CH 6009 oil filter. It comes with both O-rings, and most auto parts stores stock it. However, you do not need to change the O-rings every time, you change oil. To remove the oil filter just remove the bolt in the center. Just be very careful reinstalling it. It only has to be snug.
TOOLS

[Piute]

  take A look @Vintage 750 ;
                                    http://www.vintagecb750.com/products/4/engine/74/lubrication-filters-o-rings-drain-plugs


Stock type Oil Filter Element (Paper Filter) - OEM Ref. # 15410-426-010, 15410-422-004

Fits: CB750K (1969-78)
CB750F (1975-78)
CB750A (1976-78)
Part #: 15-0002
US$2.00 Set
Oil Filter O-Rings
Add to Cart
  Oil Filter O-Ring Set

Fits: Factory type Filter Housing Assembly, Filter #15-0002 (Above)
with the following bikes

CB750K (1969-78)
CB750F (1975-78)
CB750A (1976-78)
Part #: 15-0050

[sgtslag]

While it is not required that both O-rings be changed, every time, you do get a new pair with every filter.  I changed mine each time.  Compare the old, and the new, carefully.  I always found that the old rings were shrunken/smaller, compared to the new.  They never leaked, but it was easy to replace both, so I always did.

I used a small, blade screwdriver to pry the small one out of its groove, on the bolt.  Be sure to wet both O-rings with oil, before placing them on the bolt, and within the housing, to ensure a good seal.

Check the receiver bolt, sticking out of the block.  It is the hollow bolt that the filter housing bolt screws into.  Make sure it is screwed into the block, securely.  They sometimes work loose.  The receiver bolt has flat sides, which allows you to grip it with a channel lock pliers.  It does not need to be torqued much, just snugged.  Cheers!

[Re-run]

One thing no one has mentioned are the crush washers. When you drain from the pan, there should be a washer on the bolt. I have used them more than once but you should periodically replace them. Also, do not over torque this bolt either or you can crack the threads on the pan and then it is drip...drip...drip. very slowly but enough to mark its territory.

[MarkPBG]

That's a good tip for those of us building a brit-styel cafe racer…now it REALLY will resemble an old brit bike, leaks and all! lol

[shinyribs]

SgtSlag,you got me thinking about that receiver bolt.I thought the oil filter bolt just screwed into the engine case.That receiver bolt,is it like a threaded insert maybe?

[sgtslag]

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1979-honda-cb750k/o/m2001#sch16784

It is part number 14, "Oil Filter Boss".  I had to cut off 1/4" of mine, to install the spin-on oil filter adapter.  I picked up a spare off e-Bay, just in case I had to go back to the OEM set-up (the flange on the female end pushes the oil filter up against the filter housing, so by cutting off 1/4" of the Boss, the filter would no longer seat properly in the OEM housing, if I removed the adapter plate).  Haven't needed to go back to OEM set-up, but it is nice for resale value.  Cheers!

[shinyribs]

Oh,I see now.Thank you sir!

[Piute]

 I don't have A Boss at lease not in there pics or this Clymer,they probley forgot ? Ya think. Srg.cause mines a "F2" also
Rememdering is not my strong point.Now I'm going to think about it to much oil change not for another 1K or month

[welovedon]

I saw on cb750 supply that they offer a spin on oil filter for the 78 750k but did not mention anything for the 78 F's. Does anyone know if the one for the K's will work put for the F's or know of a place that sells it for the F's and how does it fair comparing to the oem ones?

Thanks.  

[sgtslag]

I would look at the schematics of the K, and the F, on a site like www.bikebandit.com.  Check to see if they are the same, where the filter attaches, if they use the same filter housing, etc.  I believe they do, but verify.

As to how do they compare with the OEM set-up?  Well, they allow you to use an automotive spin-on filter -- much easier, and faster, to change the filter, less mess, too.  No O-rings to change out on the housing, or the no-longer-used filter bolt.  The spin-on filter has a built-in bypass valve, which is replaced every time the filter is changed (the OEM bypass valve is in the filter bolt -- heavy duty, likely will never fail, but...).  You get a wide variety of filters to choose from, if it matters to you -- some filters have an anti-drain-back valve, if you choose to buy that type.  If you want extra protection, you can buy a chrome filter cover, to dress it up a bit.  A filter cover also protects the filter shell from rock impacts, though it is not necessary.

By the way, I put one on my '79 K, a few years ago.  I had to cut off 1/4" of my Filter Boss, to make the adapter flush with the block, to seal.  I used my moto-tool, with a cut-off wheel.  Then I sanded it down, to get rid of filings and sharp areas; wash and dry before installation to get rid of any metal filings...  I love my spin-on adapter.  I have no regrets.  Mine also has ports for an oil cooler, and an oil temperature/pressure gauge (I installed a temperature gauge sensor so I can keep an eye on the oil to see if I need to cover the cooler in colder temps.; I still use the OEM pressure/idiot sensor), so if it springs a leak, I'll get a warning when the pressure drops.

The difference in oil volume is virtually nothing.  If you convert to a spin-on filter, fill it with the same amount of oil as before.  If you install an oil cooler, fill it with the same amount of oil -- the increased circuit volume is so small, it won't affect the oil pressure enough to matter.  Cheers!

[TOOLS1]

It should go on, but I wonder if since the 77-78 F's have an oil cooler the spin-on filter would hit the exhaust?
TOOLS

[sgtslag]

I've seen those oil cooler sandwiches on e-Bay before, never knew where they came from.  The oil cooler sandwich pushes the filter housing out about 1", which means that the F's bolt is longer than the bolt used on the K model.  For reference:

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1977-honda-cb750f/o/m9454#sch403072  (The F Model, Part #8)

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1977-honda-cb750f/o/m9454#sch403067  (The F Model, no Oil Filter Boss shown, but looks like there might be one there -- you will need to check next time the filter is off)

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1979-honda-cb750k/o/m2001#sch16784  (The K Model, Part #13, and #14 Oil Filter Boss)

The spin-on filter may, or may not, stick further forward, hitting the exhaust pipe -- it depends on what filter you install, and the thickness of the adapter plate.  The only requirement in choosing a spin-on filter, is that it have the correct screw threads, a diameter which allows it to seal against the adapter plate's smooth surface, and that it be able to withstand 72 PSI (unless the F model generates higher pressure?).  There is a variety of automotive (and some Honda M/C) filters which will fit, and work.  It does, however, require some research and measurements...  Cheers!

[Piute]

   
  With a F2 stock header pipes theres 1 inch clearance on the right and 3/4 on the left thats at center
     
 nothing straight in front at all  .  

 

                 I'll be adding A oil Cooler and going to have to change to A spin on myself ,one day,
                  So curiose about all the info from ,one that has done it on A "F" 77 or 78,
                          But haven't looked.

[MarkPBG]

Tools, isn't the stock filter an internal style cartridge filter? The Fram number should be CH6009. The PH numbers are spin on, and the CH numbers are cartridge. Once the parts guy hears "6009" he should know which one to get. There is no part number PH6009 so it shouldn't be a problem at any parts store if the guys even halfway know their numbers.

[TOOLS1]

Damn, Mark, you got me. Must have been having a senior moment. I am, so used to the PH in Frams numbers it just slipped out that way.
TOOLS

[MarkPBG]

I only spotted it because I spent 16 years behind the parts counter. I can still walk in and ask for my SBC and BBC stuff by part number. ;)

but to be fair, it did take me over 25 days to notice it! lol