Your bike runs what is called a "dry sump". What this means is that most of the oil should be in the tank with a little in the engine.
When you change oil, you drain your tank first, then remove the filter housing and and hit the kicker a few times or the starter and some more will spit out, then drain the sump. Be careful putting on the sump bolt as you can easily crack the threads. Use a new crush washer every couple of times too. Finger tighten and then snug jut a little more is what I do.
You then fill the tank close to the top and here is where people vary. Some use the starter but do NOT start the bike and slowly move the oil into the engine. Some use the kicker. As I just ran the bike, I just start it and idle it but do not rev it. After a couple of seconds, your oil level will drop and you can add more slowly.
I stop about 3 quarts and then go for a short ride. After that, you should have the room required to add a bit more oil.
Now oil should always be in the tank. If not, then your check valve is most likely shot. As long as your oil light works but does not come on, you have oil pressure getting to the switch. So oil should still be moving, just not staying in the tank as it should.
Short term is probably no big deal but you will not be able to check your level and thus will not know if your getting low or have too much oil.
So drain your oil at all 3 locations. Add to the tank till almost full. run bike and add oil till about 3.25 - 3.5 quarts. Run for a while and stop and let the bike sit a few hours. Check and see if you have oil in the tank.
If not, then you will need to fix or replace the check valve.
The ride IS the adventure. The destination is just to get gas!