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There are (if memory serves) 6 diodes in the rectifier circuit, one pair for each of the 3 phases of AC coming from the alternator. Imagine a voltage level going from -20v to +20v. The idea is to get all the peaks going the same way. So, when it's at -20v, one diode is blocking the flow (by resisting the voltage) and the other diode is allowing it. When it flips to +20v, the same thing happens with the diodes flipped. This makes sure that the voltage from that winding through the rectifier goes only one way.
The regulator essentially works like a faucet, allowing the limit of voltage, and clamping down any excess. This is usually dissipated as heat, as the clamping diodes resist the extra voltage.
Electronics 101 lesson concluded.  Luke M
Used to have a 1979 CB750L, sold it as a parts bike, now riding a slightly modified 1984 VT700C. Network/Field Engineer. Central OH, USA, Earth, Sol System, Milky Way Galaxy, Universe.
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Thank You professor LukeM  very well put ,easy to understand 
1977 CB750 F2 Super Sport
<LET THOSE WHO RIDE DECIDE><RIDE TO LIVE-LIVE FOR JESUS>
Native American from central Cal, Kickstand UP in S.W.Missouri,
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My pleasure. Just sharing the knowledge.
Luke M
Used to have a 1979 CB750L, sold it as a parts bike, now riding a slightly modified 1984 VT700C. Network/Field Engineer. Central OH, USA, Earth, Sol System, Milky Way Galaxy, Universe.
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Thanks for pointing that out, I thought it must be something like that....
On May 31, 2012 9:30 PM, "LukeM [via Honda CB750'S]" < [hidden email]> wrote:
There are (if memory serves) 6 diodes in the rectifier circuit, one pair for each of the 3 phases of AC coming from the alternator. Imagine a voltage level going from -20v to +20v. The idea is to get all the peaks going the same way. So, when it's at -20v, one diode is blocking the flow (by resisting the voltage) and the other diode is allowing it. When it flips to +20v, the same thing happens with the diodes flipped. This makes sure that the voltage from that winding through the rectifier goes only one way.
The regulator essentially works like a faucet, allowing the limit of voltage, and clamping down any excess. This is usually dissipated as heat, as the clamping diodes resist the extra voltage.
Electronics 101 lesson concluded. 
Luke M
Used to have a 1979 CB750L, sold it as a parts bike, now riding a slightly modified 1984 VT700C. Network/Field Engineer. Central OH, USA, Earth, Sol System, Milky Way Galaxy, Universe.
Dress for the fall, not the ride...
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Wow only seeing this now...
Yeah proper gear can save you a lot of trouble. Sorry to hear about father....
On May 31, 2012 7:39 PM, "sgtslag [via Honda CB750'S]" < [hidden email]> wrote:
I like, and agree with, your signature: "Dress for the fall, not the ride". I've had a total of four low-sides, in my life, thus far (all very minor injuries, if any; fastest was 40 MPH on a county highway -- suffered a bruise on the back of one hand). My father suffered a horrific high-side, prior to my Senior year of High School (he survived; took him 14 months, I think, to return to work). I know, first-hand, how important proper gear is -- not a guarantee, but it sure puts the odds closer to my favor. Cheers!
1979 CB750K
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII
Dress for the fall, not the ride...
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Oky so I got the new part....
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WKFEFE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02and it works well :D
Got some new brushes too, but going to wait for current ones to wear a bit more...
Thanks again for everyone's help with this... the battery is charging again now and I'm sure this regulator will last...
Happy riding!
Dress for the fall, not the ride...
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I seem to be having a similar issue. I have replaced the stator and the rotor so far. At around 5k rpm i get the proper voltage, however after a week or so of riding around town i stalled when a runner almost ran into me. Once it stalled the battery turned off. I am a college student so i have to use my bike to get to class, and my speeds are often low. However i take the bike to 50 mph or so every few days. I have not replaced the R/R yet, but i think that may be the next step. Other than just charging the battery every few days.
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I never replaced the alternator, I think that is what caused my regulator to fail, what I can say tho is get the proper regulator, search this site to many wonderful links, it should solve your problem since you replaced your stator and rotor already, also follow the instructions when installing he new regulator, I've sold my bike since I couldn't afford to get the stator and rotor replaced after replacing the damn regulator three times, first two times the asshole mechanics failed to determine that it was the stator giving issues and they replaced the reg with one that was nowhere near the real deal, I know Honda dealers might be expensive, but they will do the job right, so if you are not planning on doing it by yourself, take it to Honda, it cost me more in the long run by taking it to socalled "specialists"
And I loved that bike of mine, but I also had to use it for commuting, and it was unreliable and I just couldn't afford to make it reliable, if your in the states, you have a much better chance than I had, good luck my friend. Ride hard, ride safe, always show off ;-)
Regards
John
On 2013-04-12 5:49 AM, "danieljespersen [via Honda CB750'S]" < [hidden email]> wrote:
I seem to be having a similar issue. I have replaced the stator and the rotor so far. At around 5k rpm i get the proper voltage, however after a week or so of riding around town i stalled when a runner almost ran into me. Once it stalled the battery turned off. I am a college student so i have to use my bike to get to class, and my speeds are often low. However i take the bike to 50 mph or so every few days. I have not replaced the R/R yet, but i think that may be the next step. Other than just charging the battery every few days.
Dress for the fall, not the ride...
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