Shifting

[Jason]

I have a 1975 honda cb750 when trying to shift from neutral to first there is a grinding noise and will not engage into first gear.  I pulled y the cover off the clutch housing and there is no oil in the housing.  whats my issue I would appreciate any help

[TOOLS1]

It sounds like your clutch is not disengaging. Which cover did, you remove, the outer chrome one, or the inner one that covers the clutch?
TOOLS

[Jason]

I took off the inner one that covers the clutch

[TOOLS1]

Did, you check the pressure plate release that is mounted to the inner cover. It should move in towards the clutch when the cable pulls it. Also, you can download the full factory service manual from the links at the top of the home page here, for free.
TOOLS

[Jason]

Yea I checked the pressure pate it moves in and out fine I think my main concern is  if  its a wet clutch why isn't there any fluid in there

[TOOLS1]

Yea, there should be oil in there. Is the oil all gummed up in the engine?
TOOLS

[Jason]

No I just drained the oil and it looked fine does the one pump push fluid thought the engine and transmission.  

[TOOLS1]

Yes it only has the one pump.
TOOLS

[rrgunslinger]

Put it in 4 gear and pull the clutch in and try to push it. It should roll.  If not it is not disengaged or stuck together.

Harvey

On Jun 7, 2012 11:38 PM, "Jason [via Honda CB750'S]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

I have a 1975 honda cb750 when trying to shift from neutral to first there is a grinding noise and will not engage into first gear.  I pulled y the cover off the clutch housing and there is no oil in the housing.  whats my issue I would appreciate any help

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NAML

[LukeM]

If it's been sitting a while, the engaged clutch plates will tend to stick together.  Per the gunslinger's recommendation, put it in a high gear and move the rear tire.  That should be enough to free up the plates.

If my bike sits for a week, it's kinda tough to push it along, even with the clutch pulled in.  My Shadow's clutch may be a bit different than yours, though.

I agree: you should have oil on your clutch plates.  Most would recommend you not use automobile engine oil with Energy Saving treatments in it.  These are anti-friction compounds that some say will compromise clutch operation.  You can do a site search on the home page for "oil recommendations" and read up on it.

I hope this helps.  Keep us in the loop.
Luke M

[sgtslag]

This might help, or it might not...  Add SeaFoam to the crankcase, as per directions:  1-1/2 oz. per quart of oil (5.5 oz of SeaFoam, if your engine takes 3.7 quarts of oil).  Run it on the center-stand for five minutes (this will warm it up to around 180 F, which is minimum operating temperature for detergent oil to suspend crud -- no fan needed).  The SeaFoam will dissolve varnish, carbon deposits, and other gunk within the engine, and the transmission, if it can reach it.  Try shifting it through all of the gears (idling!), to circulate it through the transmission.  My hope is that it will dissolve any blockages within the oil pathways, allowing oil to flood the clutch compartment, as it should.

You can even shut the engine off, afterwards, and let it sit for a few hours, to further allow the SeaFoam to work on any deposits.  After that, change the oil, and the filter.  The oil will likely be coal black, full of crap you want to remove as quickly as possible.  I'd suggest pulling the covers on the clutch, and checking for oil within:  if it is wet with oil, you might be OK; if it is still dry, you will need to locate the blockage within the oil path to the transmission, and clear it.  Best of luck!  Cheers!