Touring advice

[awesome sauce]

hey guys,
i have a beautiful 1980 cb750c that has been my baby.  it may have taken me two years but  i got this girl from a 200$ wreck to the bike that i get stopped by the big boys on brand new harlies and they all wanna know about the ol girl.   i love her.

as the winter up in canada kills any opportunity for riding im looking forward to the summer and im planning a tour. the goal is to go across canada from vancover to st johns some 7000km and then return through the united states.  ill be camping most of the way too and will be solo so ill have to carry all my own gear. i get about 3 weeks vacation so ill be needing to set a fairly brisk pace too.

as i said i love my baby but i did note last year that the handle bars are viby at highway speeds, my wrist gets sore after a few hrs with it cranked, i dont have room to stretch as i kept her stock( no highway pegs) and i dont have any saddle bags on her so i have 0 room for gear for a long tour.

now my question to you, my experienced peers who aided me in getting my baby running and beautiful, is this; do i put a throttle lock, highway bars, a fearing and some saddle bags on my bike and set off.

or would i be better off picking up an old gold wing or some other touring bike to use for this trip and keep my baby at near show room condition?

any recommendations on old touring bikes  or modifications such as saddle bags, throttle locks, fearings? id also need to install a cigarette lighter to charge my phone can that even be done???

id love to hear your thoughts on my dilemma and any advice you can give on long distance riding would be great!!!  
thanks in advance!

[Piute]

http://honda-cb750-s.456789.n3.nabble.com/piute-1977-CB-750-F2-SADDLE-BAGS-FAIRING-TRAILER-HITCH-touring-td3194402.html

[dyelawn]

I'd skip the saddle bags because 1) if you want new(er) ones and you also need the mounting racks it is SO expensive, and 2) there are easy ways around it.  I went for nearly three weeks with all my camping shit bungeed to a rear fender rack/sissy bar combo and it worked great (see below).  Don't want to be too top heavy but with a little planning it'll work.  Never had anything fly off or even get wet 'cause it was all wrapped in plastic bags inside the gear.  

As for fairings, as much as I hate to admit it, you might want to think about it.  I didn't go for it before my trip because I thought it'd make my bike look lame, but there were many times I wished I had something to block the wind.  Even just a windshield would be a great start.  I didn't even do my trip with a full face helmet (would definitely recommend that too) and boy was my body sore each day from the wind.  No idea about a throttle lock, my wrist never gets that tired.

3 weeks to do all that will be tough but fun.  Make sure to hit Crawford Notch in New Hampshire, Snowy Range Pass in Wyoming and the North Cascades Hwy in Washington.  Wish I was out there myself.


...you could get a Goldwing but then you wouldn't get to hold your own against the scoffing Harley dorks on 1400s asking how-why you're doing it on a 750.  I know you love your bike the way it is but I'm all for using equipment if you got it.  Why else do we put so much time into our things?

[free2ride]

funny abouty your trip on two counts: one, I'm planning an east-to-west jaunt next summer, and two I was going to wait until the new year until I made mention and started with questions.

my plan is Ottawa to Indianapolis the end of June, then up to Winnipeg and across to Kelowna/probably Vancouver and if I'm that close, to the Island so I can ride the #4.

I'm taking a sabbatical so I'll be leaving Ottawa June 20 or so and returning the end of August, slow west, faster back. I figure 10 days coming home and think you are absolutely crazy -- or ballsy, don't know which one -- to cross Canada twice in three weeks! However, check out ironbutt.com's Trans Canada ride/rules and their riding tips [I'm paying attention for my tin butt ride].

who knows, we may cross paths sometime!

oh, and I'm taking the minimum of camping equipment -- cash for hotels! and hoping, of course, to be able to find people I used to know for a place to crash.

fwiw, looking for a back seat bag [given up on a hard case trunk] and have a windscreen -- wouldn't go without one now, but I take it off for in town or short rides. also have a tank bag. gonna take my laptop along and blog the trip too.

[Piute]

   Notice I also have a trailer hitch ,Gave my last one away but getting another real quick.

  I've straped stuff down and around myself but not going but few hours away and no free way,so not over 60 mph.

                      Baggs are a must for all the heavy stuff
                   A windshield will spoil ya,faring & lowers are great for cold weather

[sgtslag]

If you are willing to purchase a touring bike (Kawasaki Voyager XII's are much less money, than a GW -- fantastic bikes for touring, hard to beat, and they come equipped with electronic cruise control, after 1986 year models), then go that route, and leave your 750C, as it is.

For such a long tour, you will most definitely want a full, frame-mounted, fairing, not a windshield, not something that mounts to the fork tubes, to act as a kite-lever to turn the front wheel for you, whichever way the wind blows...  Frame-mounted fairings transfer that force against the whole bike, not the handlebar you are trying to steer.  The 55-70 MPH winds will wear you down, if they blow on your chest all day long, so a full fairing is a must, as well as the fact that it will protect you from the wind, the rain, and debris, when cruising.  If possible, get a Windjammer, with Lowers.  You will likely need to cut a different model of Lowers, to make them fit, as the #10 you will need, are extremely rare.  Lowers save your legs from debris, rain, snow, and wind.

You will need to have either highway pegs, or better yet, floor boards.  Check these out from JC Whitney:  link.  Worth every penny.  Large enough to allow you to move your feet around a bit, unlike pegs.  Have used them on two bikes (CB750K and Voyager XII), much better than pegs, especially for touring more than a day, or two.

Saddlebags are a must, for storage.  Soft, vinyl bags can be had off of Leatherup, for reasonable prices.  Get a metal C-chaped bracket set, to keep them from getting caught in the rear tire; they also serve to offer an anchor point so that the bags won't flop in the wind.  You really want the storage space they offer.  Get a trunk, or large bag, which can be strapped behind you, but keep it as low as possible, to keep the Center of Gravity low, or else the bike will be very tippy, and balance on a razor's edge -- adds tremendous strain, even at 70 MPH, to maintain fine balance control.

Get a magnetic tank bag, large, preferably waterproof.  You will be amazed at how much you will rely on this extra storage space:  water, GPS, cell phone, maps (get one with a clear top, even if you plan to use a GPS!), chargers, snacks, etc.

Upgrade the suspension with Progressive Fork Springs, and Progressive Rear Shocks.  Not only more comfortable, but they transform the handling, making the bike steer, and track, like a modern bike.  Get the standard duty springs, unless you plan on carrying a passenger 80%+ of the time -- they're very heavy duty springs.

Switch to a full synthetic oil:  it will easily last 7,000 miles between changes.  Shell Rotella T6 is 5W-40, high detergent levels, rated SM for cars, rated for M/C use by JASO.  Runs ~$21/gallon, at Wal-Mart.

Consider wearing a florescent road crew type of vest over your riding jacket for improved visibility in traffic.  Get a decent quality vest at Mills Fleet Farm, or a similar store, they run around $25-$35.  They make a huge difference, particularly in poor visibility conditions:  rain, fog, night riding, etc.

Consider adding a brake light modulator to improve rear visibility in all conditions.  This is a great unit, and affordable:  link.  Installed them on three different bikes, never an issue, make a huge difference:  I drove/rode behind my wife, and son, riding a bike with them installed, helps attract attention in a positive way.

Consider adding a headlight modulator, again, for your personal safety.  The best unit I found, was by Amperite (link).  Had to contact the company directly to order the unit with the sensor, paid around $70, delivered from the maker.  Otherwise, JC Whitney sells a less expensive model, which needs a bypass switch to turn it off:  link (technically, illegal in the USA, but don't tell anyone you control it manually, and you will be fine).  These are perfectly legal in all 50 States, and Canada.  They make an amazing difference in cage driver's ability to notice you.

Get a riding jacket, with armor, and zipper vents, waterproof, with removable liner.  Check out Leatherup for jackets, boots, and pants/chaps.  Full gear is best, as it is your very last line of defense.  I crashed at 40 MPH, with a $100 Mossi armored jacket, and my son/passenger was wearing a $70 Leatherup jacket:  they saved both of us from serious injury, even though they were relatively inexpensive jackets.  Leather chaps may look stupid, but they work -- they saved my legs, and hips in said accident, sliding 40 feet across blacktop.  Get yourself a modular helmet for touring:  easier to put on/take off, allows you to easily drink water without removing it.  Get some neck protection, such as Zubwear -- you will wonder how you ever rode without it.  Make sure you have decent leather gloves, as well as insulated, waterproof gloves for cold, and rain (Leatherup:  decent quality, not a lot of money, and they work).

Get fitted for a custom set of ear plugs:  all-day comfort, 28 dB minimum (32 dB is best), will save your hearing -- these are a necessity!  The reduced noise will allow you to ride much more relaxed, at ease, and comfortably.  Get a seat cover to extend your seat endurance:  wooden beads are inexpensive ($20-$40), and usually work; an AirHawk is the Cadillac, but they don't work for everyone, around $160.  Cheers!

[free2ride]

wow, Sarge . . . thanks! lotsa good stuff here. I keep forgetting about ear plugs too and pay the price -- moved to the top of my list [though kinda tied with a bunch of other things!].

[awesome sauce]

thanks guys, so far i managed to snag a vetter windjammer  IV which is about as ugly as sin. but if she keeps the wind down will be worth it. also ordered a set of highway bars, i find on long rides i tent to rest my legs on the stator and crank covers.... i occasionally get singed. gotta love an air cooled engine!
i also got a sissy bar with luggage rack, im hoping to install all the gear and take a test trip soon, ill keep you posted and put up some pics once i figure out exactly how to install the vetter!
thanks again for all the advice my bike wouldnt be running with out this forum!!!

[free2ride]

where did you get the sissy bar/luggage rack? I haven't been able to find one for my "K"

[sgtslag]

Troll e-Bay, and C-List for mounting brackets, but be aware that you will need one specifically for your make, model, and year -- they varied every year, with every model, almost...

Barring that, if you have welding skills, that would be another way to fit it.  You can always contact Craig Vetter by e-mail.  He is a very helpful fellow, and the original designer of the Windjammer's.  He can be reached through his web site:  http://www.craigvetter.com/pages/Vetter_Fairings/Vetter-Fairings-main.html.

There should be a hole, lower left side of the fairing, below the storage pocket, with a plastic plug in it, for a 12 Volt accessory outlet/cigarette lighter plug (available at Wal-Mart, ~$10?).  There is also wiring inside the fairing, for this outlet -- look for the instruction manual for your fairing on Craig's web site.  Be sure to use some rubber washers, between the ABS plastic frame of the fairing, and the metal mounting bracket attached to the bike...  This is where they tend to crack most often, due to the stresses applied at the screw holes/attach points.

For minor repairs on the fairing, buy some ABS Plastic Cement at your local hardware store, in the plumbing section.  Apply masking tape to the outside, and apply the pasty cement to the inside, building up layers, as needed; the glue is ABS plastic dissolved in a liquid solvent, the plastic hardens as the solvent evaporates, usually within an hour, depending upon thickness.  The tape will maintain the outside surface (only remove it after the cement is hardened).  Cheers!

[cdaiscool]

I went on a winter ride, had no fairings or windshield. Full face though, and a lot of thermals. It can be done with little issue. So for me, a fairing isn't a big deal. I also wasn't going 100 mph trying to make a goal.

Bags can be done for sub $150. I had soft bags on my trip, and they worked well. I had those, and could have packed differently to get my weight a lot lower but it was all good. I strapped my tent, sleeping bag, pad to my sissy bar.

[sgtslag]

You asked about throttle locks.  Sorry, forgot about that question...

They help, tremendously, but they hold the throttle in position, so any elevation change up/down, will affect your speed -- you end up making minor adjustments every 30 seconds or so, longer if you are more patient/tolerant.  This brings up an important safety point:

The throttle lock needs to be loose enough to allow you to close the throttle in an emergency, without dis-engaging the lock!!!

We were riding, two-up, when a semi-truck passed us, cutting us off!  We were doing 60 MPH, with a 3-foot paved shoulder.  I had the lock engaged, and without thinking, I closed the throttle, and headed onto the shoulder.  Once the truck was safely away from us, I went to open the throttle to move back onto the main road -- but the throttle barely moved...  I had to unlock it to open it up to accelerate back into traffic.  I forgot that it was engaged.

Most throttle locks adjust the tension with a set screw, sometimes an Allen Wrench is necessary to adjust them.  Practice using the throttle lock prior to leaving on your trip (make sure the set screw is properly adjusted...), as you need to remember to unlock them as you approach curves, hills, etc.

Invest in a set of foam hand grips before you leave.  They will absorb vibrations, greatly reducing hand fatigue, numbness, and tingling -- all common side-effects of long touring trips.  They run around $20-$30 a set; they can be installed by wrapping masking tape around the handlebars, thick enough to hold them securely in place (it should take some effort to install/remove the grips), then remove them later, if you don't want them on all of the time.

Take a stretch/water break every two hours, or so.  Make sure you keep water in your tank bag, as all of that fresh air will dehydrate you over the miles, so be sure to keep your fluids up.  It will also help you stay alert on the bike.

Do some test rides, before you leave, with the bike fully packed.  Remember the load triangle for weight distribution.  Keeping the weight within the triangle will keep the center of gravity low; top-heavy bikes handle like a trapeez-newbie walking along a razor wire, barefoot -- it ain't pretty.  Cheers!

[awesome sauce]

alrighty an update on my cross canada touring,

Thank you all for the advice!  i got a small clip on throttle lock for 20 bucks at a local bike shop, some forward pegs from ebay and i got lucky and found a sissy bar with a luggage rack.
this past week i took the bike from edmonton to vancover some 1100km.  and the bike held up beautifully!  
i do have some minor tweeks to make tho.
the forward pegs keep sliding down after about 3 hrs of hard riding.  i also think i may need a new chain and sprocket as i had to adjust the chain about every 700Km.  

im currently regretting not getting some sort of wind screen... my neck hurts from battling the wind.  i may have been pushing my self a little hard tho. i was doing 700-800km per day at an average of 110km/hr.

 im going to have 3 weeks before i can leave for my east coast rip so in that time im praying i can get the wind jammer installed.... i got it for 50$ but it is off a 1979 cb 750. all the mounting hardware fits but the electrical is all wrong.  so it will be a challenge to rig up.
this is what my rig looks like thus far.

[sgtslag]

Here is a link to the original instructions for the Windjammer fairings, off of Craig Vetter's web site:  link.  Look for the model you have, and it should have wiring diagrams included within it.  Use the FSM's wiring guide to locate the proper wires to connect the fairing into, if necessary.  If you have trouble wiring them together, let me know.

The Windjammer is amazing on long tour trips.  You will truly appreciate it after riding without one...  It will create a cocoon of calm air for the driver.  This is nice, but it can get warm.  Be sure to wear a well ventilated riding jacket, or a mesh riding jacket, to allow air to flow around to cool you.

Lowers are impossible to find the right type for your bike, unless your bike takes one of the barely available types out there on e-Bay -- they're harder to find with every passing year.  I needed a Type 10, and I watched/trolled for two years without ever seeing one come up for auction.  I finally bought another Type (model), and then I had to cut them to fit.  In the end, they worked, and they worked well.  They cover your shins, protecting them from wind, rain, and flying debris.  In cold rains, they are fantastic.  Something to think about, if you plan on touring a lot, on this bike.

I'd recommend some soft saddlebags, as well.  They will add storage space which is slung low, to keep your Center of Gravity low -- the bike will handle better, and balance will improve considerably.  I would also recommend metal bars/brackets to keep your saddlebags from falling in, towards the wheels.  The brackets also give you something to anchor the bags to, such that they won't flop in high winds, or when empty.  Cheers!

[free2ride]

good luck, man. who knows . . . we may meet up or cross paths along the west.

[Truck]

Ride as much as you can in increasing distances to get you body in shape for this. alot of cramps fatige and sore butt can be avoided by putting miles on your body. You may think your just sitting there but you arr costantly adjusting your position and moving around. increasing your indurance will make this a much more enjoyable trip. And don't push yourself trying to keep to a schedule. when you get tired is when you make mistakes, and that can end a trip real quick. If you have to shave a few miles off you plan so be it! btter to arve after a shortened trip, than not come home.  Oh yeah... take the camera! We want to see this trip!