WTB- Oil cooler stuff for a SOHC

[shinyribs]

All I really need is the sandwich adapter. But if you have other bits and pieces I may be interested in those as well. Whatcha got?

[TOOLS1]

Man, you have a lathe, you could turn them out by the dozens.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

Yeah, but I'm lazy. :) Actually the adapter would be easy, but the bolt extander part I can't make. My machine doesn't have gears to cut metric threads.

[TOOLS1]

I think I can get a die that size, but you could use the longer f-2, f-3 bolt.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

Yeah, I figured a tap and a die that size would probably run me more than buying a used adapter would. But owning those two tools would give me the option to build these for people,too. Hmm,maybe I should invest in that?

[sgtslag]

From what I remember of past discussions, the SOHC models run their oil much cooler than the DOHC models (250 F -- the thermal limit of conventional oils).  Does your oil run hot?

For best performance, I would recommend an oil thermostat, as well, to bypass the radiator until the oil hits 180 F, or higher (in temp's below 55 F, you may need to cover the radiator in order for the oil to heat up to operating temperature of 180+ F).  It will help the engine warm up faster.

The radiators off of CB900's work quite well (hoses will likely need to be cut, and new fittings installed below the radiator), and they are usually less than $50, used, on e-Bay.  Remember to use high pressure T-bolt clamps (at least on DOHC engines), to avoid leaks on the hose connections -- any leak will drop oil directly in front of the rear wheel...  Cheers!

[shinyribs]

Sarge, you're exactly right. I don't really think I need an oil cooler for this SOHC engine at all for temp reasons. This will be for a custom setup Im doing and I really just want the oil cooler to help the bike's oil capacity. I'm trying hard to keep the factory 3.75 quarts of oil in this bike, but the oil tank I'm building will only hold 2 quarts max. probably closer to 1.75 qts actually.

That, and a dirt tracker build just oughta have one.

[sgtslag]

Well, that makes sense.  However...  

Oil Coolers, and their hoses, and adapters, don't hold very much oil (I added the same 3.5 Liter OEM volume, after the Cooler System was installed, never had an issue).  With a reduced volume of oil, you may, in fact, need the Cooler to keep your engine, and oil, from overheating!  Sounds like a neat build concept.  I would strongly recommend an Oil Temperature Gauge, as well as an Oil Pressure Gauge:  the Pressure Gauge can be connected in place of the OEM Idiot Light Sensor; the Temperature Gauge needs to be in the actual flow of the oil, so the best placement for that, is the adapter which shunts oil to the Cooler -- as long as the sensor is in the flow of the oil coming out of the engine (not the pan, not the Cooler), it will give you a very accurate reading of how hot your engine is running, on average.

If your oil averages around 250 F, when the bike is complete, you will want to change the oil every 1,500-3,000 miles, due to thermal wear on it -- the heat will break conventional oils down fast.  I would recommend using a synthetic, due to their ability to withstand temperatures in excess of 400 F -- then your oil will survive temperatures above 250 F, but higher temperatures will still wreak havoc on your seals and such.  Wal-Mart's Super Tech Full Synthetic brand is rated SN, and it will not void any OEM warranty on new vehicles, so it is quite safe, and quite affordable, if you can find it in the correct weight.  Otherwise, Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic is a great oil, 5W-40, SN rated for cars, and less money than most full synthetics.

Looking forward to reading about this project as it progresses.  Best of luck, Shiny!  Cheers!

[shinyribs]

Thanks Sarge. I was looking at some of the larger oil coolers that are actually designed for small autos in hopes of actually adding a decent amount of capacity. Running a bigger line ( -8 AN = 1/2'' ID) would help too,but I'm not sure if these systems can support that large of a system. Even still, like you said, I'd probably only be picking up 1/2 qt at best. But you have a good point that i didn't even consider : reduced capacity needing better cooling. So that does ease my mind a little there.

Something else that Tools and I discussed once is the oil pans on the automatic CB's. They are deeper to hold additional oil and those bikes don't run an external oil tank at all. If it weren't so costly and time consuming Id love to acquire a bug hunk of aluminum and mill out about a 1'' thick spacer to lower the oil pan. That would gain (according to my seat of the pants measurements) about a full quart of fluid. I'd want to lower the pickup of course,but that would be the easy part. Oh,if there were only more hours in the day....

Thank you for your input Sarge.  I know you sold your CB , but I'm glad your still hanging out with us and sharing that knowledge!

[sgtslag]

Supposedly the CB900's oil pan, and oil pump(?) can be adapted to the CB750 (not sure if they will work on the SOHC's, but I know they've been adapted to the DOHC's).  That would provide an OEM hook-up for the CB900's Oil Cooler; not sure what it would do for overall oil capacity.

If you did add a spacer between the oil pan, and the block, this would decrease your ground clearance.  Would there be enough clearance when done?

There were Oil Coolers which were vertical tubes, meant to be mounted on the front body frame tubes.  Could you build oil tanks like that, oil reservoir tubes, attached to the outside of the upper frame tubes?  Just a shot from the hip, not thoroughly thought through...

At 1.75 qts. of oil, you will have less than 1/2 of the OEM spec'ed amount of 3.75 qts!  That is a small amount of oil, which will affect:  oil pressure (smaller volume -- will the oil pressure increase/decrease/remain the same?); lubrication [oil will run hotter, circulate much faster, be subject to more shearing of the long molecules due to faster 'on-duty' time, which will degrade conventional oils at least twice as fast -- you may need to change oil every 700 miles, or run on 10 weight oil after 700 miles, as the long molecules create the multi-viscosity function, with it reducing to a straight-weight, at the lowest viscosity level, once the long molecules are broken down (10W-40 becomes straight 10 weight)]; and heat, of course.  Just some food for thought.  Cheers!

[shinyribs]

Oh,it won't be 1.75 qts for the entire system, that is the amount that the external oil tank will hold. IIRC when I measured this before, a stock oil tank at the "Full" mark holds 54 or 57 oz of oil. Which is just shy of 2 quarts. I can't quite remember the exact amount. I'd have to dig through the build thread to find it.

[masiste]

 This Co. has adaptors, for cooler, and for using automotive style oil filters.

http://randakks.com/products/honda-gl1000-gl1100-gl1200-cbx-dohc-4-cx500-and-variants-engine-parts

[shinyribs]

Cool! Nice find man!

[sgtslag]

There are a great many spin-on filters which will fit this adapter from Randakk's.  Some filter models will have larger oil capacities than others.  The thread connection, and the diameter, are key.  Spin-on's are fantastic, and they offer far more options for filtration (you can get much higher quality filters which will capture much finer particulates).

Some of the bikes on Randakk's list had a sandwich adapter for the OEM Oil Cooler -- you may be able to adapt one of these to your engine block.  You will need to locate the parts, and measure, to see if it will work, but this is another Cooler option to investigate.  These sandwich adapters are similar to the extra cooling fin adapter/spacers some of the CB750F(?) models used; Honda tended to recycle designs, so the sandwich adapter Oil Coolers may bolt on, if luck is on your side...    Cheers!

[masiste]

 Just ordered a adaptor. Already got an oil cooler system from a 900. But the spin oil filters are as said, better, newer technology, available everywhere for a dime, compared to bike filters, and are larger, out performing stock oil filters.

 Added feature, no need to disassemble the oil filter cover and all that, just spin off, and spin on !

  I think by having the filter externally installed ( as opposed to inside cover ) we will have better cooling,

  Cost I believe $69.95

  Will install it at my next oil change.

  Perhaps I will get it anodized ( it is aluminum ) so that it matches the black engine face.

  Randakk !