Whats the best oil?

[bellison80]

What is the best oil for these bikes? What do you guys use/prefer or swear by? This would be for a 79 cb750f .

[Re-run]

Ohh a loaded question. I use shell rotella synthetic 5-40. Available at walmart and it works wonders for my bikes.

[TOOLS1]

I use Texaco Havoline 10w40.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

I use what SgtSlag told me to useShell Rotella Synthetic like Re-Run mentioned

[bellison80]

I have never used the shell rotella but think I am going to give that a try.

[sgtslag]

The Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic is actually a highly refined dino oil, that performs like a full synthetic -- and it is relatively inexpensive, at Wal-Mart, around $21/gallon.  It is rated SM for cars, supposedly JASO rated for motorcycles; minimal friction modifiers (not listed, but it seems to appear on the MSDS); high detergent levels, which will keep your engine/transmission clean.  Good stuff -- do an Internet search on "Rotella T6 motorcycle", for more information, and commentary.

If you've never SeaFoam'ed your engine, get a 16 oz. can, for around $9, and add 1-1/2 oz. per quart of engine oil (5.5 -6.0 oz.; either use the remainder on your cars/trucks/other engines, or add it to the fuel tank, to clean out the fuel system of varnish).  Put the bike on the centerstand, let it idle until the oil reaches 180 F (around 5 minutes, no cooling fan needed), shifting through all gears while idling (will circulate SeaFoam throughout the transmission gears).  Then drain the oil, and change the filter.  This will dissolve varnish, and carbon deposits, from within the engine/transmission, trapping most of it in the filter (check your oil before you add the SeaFoam, and then note its color when you drain it -- it will likely start out caramel-colored, changing to coal black when you drain it...).  Then fill with Rotella T6.  The SeaFoam will not harm your engine, or your seals/gaskets.  It will clean out your engine, and your bike's transmission, though, better than anything else I've found (do NOT add SeaFoam Engine Treatment to your 4-wheeled vehicles' transmissions -- they require a separate, different SeaFoam product in their transmissions).  This need only be done once, if switching to Rotella T6, as there won't be any crud from that point forward, unless you abuse your engine (excessive heat, oil changes performed beyond 7,000-10,000 mile intervals, etc.).  Even if you use a cheap, inexpensive automotive oil, the SeaFoam treatment won't be needed for another 20,000 to 40,000 miles, if even then, with regular oil/filter changes.  Cheers!

[seestheday]

Sarge, you respond to this question so often, do you just have something typed up that you cut and paste from?

Always good advice

[sgtslag]

No, I am just enthusiastic about Shell T6, and Seafoam (I've seen/heard these two products perform minor miracles, saving folks time, money, and effort -- love to pass on the 'savings' to others).  I should, however, cut and paste -- give my fingers a rest.  I could probably type that bit while sleeping, though, through muscle memory...  

[Piute]

sgtslag wrote

The Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic is actually a highly refined dino oil, that performs like a full synthetic -- and it is relatively inexpensive, at Wal-Mart, around $21/gallon.  It is rated SM for cars, supposedly JASO rated for motorcycles; minimal friction modifiers (not listed, but it seems to appear on the MSDS); high detergent levels, which will keep your engine/transmission clean.  Good stuff -- do an Internet search on "Rotella T6 motorcycle", for more information, and commentary.

If you've never SeaFoam'ed your engine, get a 16 oz. can, for around $9, and add 1-1/2 oz. per quart of engine oil (5.5 -6.0 oz.; either use the remainder on your cars/trucks/other engines, or add it to the fuel tank, to clean out the fuel system of varnish).  Put the bike on the centerstand, let it idle until the oil reaches 180 F (around 5 minutes, no cooling fan needed), shifting through all gears while idling (will circulate SeaFoam throughout the transmission gears).  Then drain the oil, and change the filter.  This will dissolve varnish, and carbon deposits, from within the engine/transmission, trapping most of it in the filter (check your oil before you add the SeaFoam, and then note its color when you drain it -- it will likely start out caramel-colored, changing to coal black when you drain it...).  Then fill with Rotella T6.  The SeaFoam will not harm your engine, or your seals/gaskets.  It will clean out your engine, and your bike's transmission, though, better than anything else I've found (do NOT add SeaFoam Engine Treatment to your 4-wheeled vehicles' transmissions -- they require a separate, different SeaFoam product in their transmissions).  This need only be done once, if switching to Rotella T6, as there won't be any crud from that point forward, unless you abuse your engine (excessive heat, oil changes performed beyond 7,000-10,000 mile intervals, etc.).  Even if you use a cheap, inexpensive automotive oil, the SeaFoam treatment won't be needed for another 20,000 to 40,000 miles, if even then, with regular oil/filter changes.  Cheers!

                                             
          As HOT as my bike's been getting going with this rontell 6 ,Lil head of change due to I wonted oil cooler on when done but heckk well check the #'s on this stuff too.

[sgtslag]

Good call, Piute.  The Rotella T6 will withstand the higher temperatures, without breaking down into carbon sludge, as a regular oil will.  I went back and re-read the information on "synthetic" oils, and the T6 qualifies as a full synthetic, even though it is made from regular oil stocks (the refining process makes it equivalent to stuff made on a molecular level, such as Mobil 1).

What's your progress on that oil cooler?  What type of system are you planning to install?  If you can, would you take some notes on oil temperatures, under given loads, and air temperatures, with, and without, the oil cooler?  I did on mine, but I only ran it with the oil temperature gauge, and no cooler, for a short time.  I have only a few test runs (good enough for me, but I know more folks would like to see more numbers).  Really looking forward to seeing your system, and its results on your bike.  Cheers!

[Piute]

   Well couldn't change the oil Had no filterthought I had 2 left ,So just drain a couple quarts out and filled,,Will have to hold me till next sunday,unless I find 1 on way home what was that fram #

    SEARCH "oil filter" TOOLs says Fram CH6009,
 on my way to Wally World.1 mile


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