Will bad ignitors cause charging problems?

[rich]

Pic is a bit small but it worked! Nice looking bike.

Good idea sticking with the proper tool. The axle will work but it wasn't made for that and you could easily damage the threads or bend it.

[SteveM]

     
      I sent my rotor out to be rebuilt yesterday and can't hardly wait to see if my charging system is fixed. I also would like to take at least one more ride and be able to put the bike away for the winter fixed and ready for next year. I had no success trying to hammer the rotor off like the video shows and a friend suggested an impact gun. It worked great. I wish that i had used that sooner. Hitting the end of that stud couldn't be good for the bearings. Hope i didn't screw anything up.
        Later, Steve
 P.S. I'm not sure what's up with the pictures. This is all new to me.

[nyraised]

Get a rotor puller tool, best bet..keep it on hand..always use the right tool...makeshift ones will cause you more problems in the long run

[SteveM]

          Installed the rebuilt rotor last night and the battery still isn't charging. The rotor tested out at 5.1 ohms. I tested the stator and that tested fine ( using the test method on the video ). Is there any way to test the regulator? I'm bummin cause i thought the rotor would surely fix the problem.
        Suggestions appreciated.
       Steve

[nyraised]

Exact same thing happened to me after I got the new rotor, The increased voltage from new rotor took its toll on my weak voltage regulator...I replaced that and ..now charges just fine. There is no way that i know of to test them, its ither bad or good..sorry!!  Here is a link to a good used one for $35...new ones are close to a $100
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-1980-81-82-Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-CB750-DOHC-CB900-SH236-12-CB1000C-/400249364143?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5d30b89eaf

[sgtslag]

Actually, the Alternator pushes AC voltage to the Rectifier/Regulator, which can be tested.

Set your DVM (Digital Volt Meter) to ~AC (voltage), and attach the leads to the yellow wires connecting to the Rectifier/Regulator (no polarity, so it doesn't matter which lead goes to which yellow wire).  The Rectifier/Regulator rectifies the AC into DC, then controls the maximum voltage output to the bike, and battery (usually clamps it to a maximum of around 14.7 VDC.

If you have ~AC at the yellow wires, and less than 12.6 VDC across the battery, at 3,000 RPM, then the Alternator is working, but the Rectifier/Regulator is not.  Be careful not to discharge your battery below 12 Volts -- this will damage it (deep discharge), shortening its life dramatically.

I would recommend a smart, trickle charger, like Battery Tender Jr.  Keep your bike plugged into it after every ride, and your battery will live much longer.  Cheers!

[SteveM]

       
     Just put the meter on the yellow wires and got between 13 and 15 on the a.c. ( depending on which two yellow wires i tested to ) with the bike at idle. Does that mean that the voltage regulator is bad?
               Steve

[SteveM]

       Well, i was just about to click on " buy it now " for a new regulator and decided to take a closer look at the reg. on the bike to make sure that it was the same. Decided to put the d.v.m. on the battery again just for yucks and the g.d. thing was charging this time. Over 14 volts at 3500 r.p.m. I took it for a 10 mile ride and rechecked the voltage while the bike was hot and running, and got between 12 and 13 volts when reving the bike. A friend thought that it wouldn't call for more voltage unless the battery needs it. I tested the bike twice and got the same results. Over 14 volts when reving a cold bike and less than 13 reving a hot bike. Any thoughts? The new regulator that i was about to buy was only 43 dollars on e-bay. I may replace that anyway.

[shinyribs]

Never hurts to have an extra.Having a buddy run a part out to ya on the side of the road is a heap better than having to tow it back home