carburetor synchronizer guage help!

[GearBocks]

I just bought a set of Carburetor synchronizers and right out of the box the dials are not all the same? Do I need to adjust them before I get started on my bike? #1 &2 are the same, but 3 & 4 are different?

[Lucky 1]

You can send them back or just take the glass off and carefully remove the pointer and re orient it.
They do get off from time to time.

Up to you.

[GearBocks]

Ok. But maybe I asked the wrong question. I'm wondering if the needles have to be pointing in the same direction for the tool to be calibrated and work properly? The instructions say that it comes calibrated but two of the needles were very different positions when I open my kit. There is a screw to adjust the needles inside the cap but its only a 3/4 turn pot, so it won't turn the needles 360. should I just find a place on the dial that I can get all 4 needles to be the same by using the adjustment screws, or are they all different for a reason? Thanks.

[GearBocks]

the only place I could get all the needles to agree on is somewhere around the 4 psi mark , is it okay that I moved the needles to match or is it supposed to be the way it comes in the package?

[TOOLS1]

What matters is if they all will read the same with vacuum. Try each gauge on the same carb, and compare the readings.
TOOLS

[GearBocks]

Ok thanks! The answer is it doesn't matter where the pointers start at as long as they all read the same vacume from the same source. If they don't, use the adjustment to set the needles to the median reading from all gauges (make them the same). They may very well come calibrated with the pointers in different directions. In my logical mind they should all be calibrated to 0 so when u hook it up to the carbs you can see the difference easily. Hasn't anyone else bought a set of these gauges and opened the box to find the pointers on the dials in different directions? Then said ....uh, what? Shouldn't they all start at zero? Using any gauge or meter that doesn't start at zero seems dumb. For example if your measuring psi and a line is putting off 8psi and your gauge starts at 4psi its gonna be at 12 psi, where as if it starts at zero then it'll read 8psi. But I guess that would just be too easy. Lol. Thanks guys. I'll just ignore the starting position of the pointers and go with what they read.  

[LukeM]

When I got my 2-gauge set for my Shadow, I connected both gauges to a single vacuum source, to make sure they read the same. On some of these, there's a little adjustment screw, should you have to tweak the needle.  Just make a note of where it was before you started, so you can go back to that if you get it too far.

I agree that it makes sense to have them pointing at "0" when they're not connected.  However, there is 14.69595 psi of pressure on you at sea level.  It will change some based on the weather (high pressure, low pressure, hurricane/tornado) and elevation. "0" is just a reference point on the gauge.

The reason behind syncing the carbs is making sure they have the same vacuum reading across all carbs.  Doesn't matter if they all read -12 or -3 or +20, as long as they all do. Remember to blip the throttle to reseat the carbs after you change the sync screw. Wait for the engine to settle down, then take a reading. You'll find that when you get the carbs close to sync, the idle should/will go up, along with a smoothing out of the engine.

I had to turn down the throttle stop on my Shadow once I got them set.  Let's just say that when I bench-sync'd the carbs, they were WAY off.

Luke M

[GearBocks]

I called alphamoto (manufacturer of the carb sync) and they said to use the screw to move all the needles to 0!! Haha yes! That way you have a good reference point to compare. It doesn't matter if they won't all go to zero, you can just start with them all at 2, or 3 or wherever as long as they all read the same when starting. Then its a good idea to test them on 1 cylinder to make sure your getting the same reading from all gauges. Wow, I thought my question was pretty simple, really surprised I couldn't get a straight answer. All I needed was someone to say "make all the pointers the same by adjusting the screw then test all on 1 cylinder".

Sent from Verizon Wireless 4GLTE smartphone

----- Reply message -----
From: "GearBocks [via Honda CB750&apos;S]" <[hidden email]>
To: "GearBocks" <[hidden email]>
Subject: carburetor synchronizer guage help!
Date: Thu, Aug 23, 2012 9:39 am

Ok thanks! The answer is it doesn't matter where the pointers start at as long as they all read the same vacume from the same source. If they don't, use the adjustment to set the needles to the median reading from all gauges (make them the same). They may very well come calibrated with the pointers in different directions. In my logical mind they should all be calibrated to 0 so when u hook it up to the carbs you can see the difference easily. Hasn't anyone else bought a set of these gauges and opened the box to find the pointers on the dials in different directions? Then said ....uh, what? Shouldn't they all start at zero? Using any gauge or meter that doesn't start at zero seems dumb. For example if your measuring psi and a line is putting off 8psi and your gauge starts at 4psi its gonna be at 12 psi, where as if it starts at zero then it'll read 8psi. But I guess that would just be too easy. Lol. Thanks guys. I'll just ignore the starting position of the pointers and go with what they read.  

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NAML

[GearBocks]

Awesome!!! Thank you for the explanation! I do understand, its just confusing for a newby when they come all different. Thank you. I hope this helps the next guy who gets a sync kit and says... Uh why aren't they the same?

Sent from Milan's Verizon Wireless 4GLTE smartphone

----- Reply message -----
From: "LukeM [via Honda CB750&apos;S]" <[hidden email]>
To: "GearBocks" <[hidden email]>
Subject: carburetor synchronizer guage help!
Date: Thu, Aug 23, 2012 1:58 pm

When I got my 2-gauge set for my Shadow, I connected both gauges to a single vacuum source, to make sure they read the same. On some of these, there's a little adjustment screw, should you have to tweak the needle.  Just make a note of where it was before you started, so you can go back to that if you get it too far.

I agree that it makes sense to have them pointing at "0" when they're not connected.  However, there is 14.69595 psi of pressure on you at sea level.  It will change some based on the weather (high pressure, low pressure, hurricane/tornado) and elevation. "0" is just a reference point on the gauge.

The reason behind syncing the carbs is making sure they have the same vacuum reading across all carbs.  Doesn't matter if they all read -12 or -3 or +20, as long as they all do. Remember to blip the throttle to reseat the carbs after you change the sync screw. Wait for the engine to settle down, then take a reading. You'll find that when you get the carbs close to sync, the idle should/will go up, along with a smoothing out of the engine.

I had to turn down the throttle stop on my Shadow once I got them set.  Let's just say that when I bench-sync'd the carbs, they were WAY off.

Luke M

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NAML

[GearBocks]

I understand what lucky meant, they may not be all at 0 when calibrated, if you don't like it then move the needle by taking out the tiny Allen screw out and putting the needle on 0. After its confirmed they all read same vacume from same source. Got it!

Sent from Milan's Verizon Wireless 4GLTE smartphone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Lucky 1 [via Honda CB750&apos;S]" <[hidden email]>
To: "GearBocks" <[hidden email]>
Subject: carburetor synchronizer guage help!
Date: Wed, Aug 22, 2012 6:03 pm

You can send them back or just take the glass off and carefully remove the pointer and re orient it.
They do get off from time to time.

Up to you.

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NAML

[Piute]

mine all read the same,think I might use monday.thx 4 info