help with cam and valve settings on 77 750 F

[pedro bighead]

Hello, My name is Mark and I'm a new member. MY son Marc and I have just finished rebuilding a 77 750 F supersport. The timing is out and i need some information if you could help? The engine was just rebuilt with honing and new rings. compression is 140 + on all four dead cold. (sweet, factory is 130 to 160) warm we are seeing closer to 150 Originally 3 was cold, blew out and rebuilt the carbs with new floats and needles, runs on all 4 now. haven't set the float height or synced yet. We know Slow jet was plugged because once cleaned 3 fired. THIS IS THE BIG ONE, right below.....:) The timing mark on the crank (T) should be aligned with the outside case mark (outer mark) when the cam notch is at 12 oclock high (this is correct, we found the cam doesn't line up EXACTLY EXACTLY but is very very close, MAYBE a degree off but i dont think so). it looks pretty right to me and the shop manual photo has a 1 degree angle on the side marks as well but the notch is 12 oclock all day long. So is ours However the manual does not state which cylinder (1 or 4) should have loose tappets when starting the valve settings. When the 1-4 T mark is aligned at the crank behind the timing plate, the valves are closed on 4 and the tappets are loose, they are tight on 1 My question is this: should the tappets on 1 be loose (valves closed) when the initial setup is done, thereby making 4 tight (valves depressed into the head) Right now number 4 is loose and 1 is tight, when the cam is rolled over and the notch is pointing down or at 6 oclock 1 is loose and 4 is tight? What will happen if i set the valves on 1 loose and 4 tight then start the engine? This would be in the exact reverse of how it is now. (I will find out tonight as I'm going to do it) supposedly the firing order is 1,4,2,3 i will send pictures tonight or tomorrow of the whole mess :) thanks from northern ontario

[shinyribs]

This might be bad advice, so take it with a grain of salt, but I always set mine by eye. Using the big nut at the points plate (careful, too much pressure can snap that little stud off :make sure the plugs are out) I just rotate the engine and watch each valve open then close. After it closes I turn the crank just a smudge to ensure no additional movement. If no additional movement then I adjust it right there. Rinse and repeat seven more times.

0.003" lash for the exhaust

0.004" lash for the intake.

Works for me....

[TOOLS1]

With the timing mark at "T-1,4" Either #1, or #4 is at top dead center. The other cylinder will be on the exhaust stroke. Turn the crank 360* and then the other cylinder will be at top dead center, and the one that was previously at top dead center will be on the exhaust stroke. Remember this is a 4 stroke engine, and requires 2 complete revolutions for a cylinder to fire.
TOOLS