new to the motorcycle world

[Kylemichael]

I just picked up my first motorcycle and its a 1976 cb750. and just my luck it already has some issues. the first day i got it it rode fine no mechanical problems. then i let it sit in my garage over night. next day i wake up and notice a small puddle of fuel under the chassis. turns out i left the petcock on over night (i know rookie mistake) so i drained out the fuel in the carbs but it wouldnt crank choke up or down it wouldnt start. check the plugs they were fouled. next day i got new plugs and it fired up. but it was rough with smoke coming out the exhaust. rode it around for a few minutes and eventually it stalled out in 4th gear. it wouldnt fire back up but after a few minutes i got it to turn over rode it again and did the same thing. from what i can understand im having a fuel air problem too much air causing the bike to stall and making the plugs foul and misfiring. any help as to what the issue could be would be great. im not new to wreching on motors but i am new to the carberation side. btw the bike has pod filters and 4 into 1 pipes with a straight pipe exhaust.

[TOOLS1]

What you have is dirty carbs. The dirt kept the float needles from sealing, and then plugged the jets. You need to thoroughly clean the carbs and tank. Then install inline fuel filters. As for not turning the fuel petcock off being a rookie mistake, I strongly disagree. I never turn a petcock off unless I am removing the fuel line. If the petcock leaks when the bike is parked, it is leaking when the bike is being ridden, and needs to be fixed!
TOOLS

[Kylemichael]

Okay what would you recommend for cleaning the tank? And for the petcock leaking how can I fix this? 

On Apr 19, 2015, at 10:03 PM, TOOLS1 [via Honda CB750'S] <[hidden email]> wrote:

What you have is dirty carbs. The dirt kept the float needles from sealing, and then plugged the jets. You need to thoroughly clean the carbs and tank. Then install inline fuel filters. As for not turning the fuel petcock off being a rookie mistake, I strongly disagree. I never turn a petcock off unless I am removing the fuel line. If the petcock leaks when the bike is parked, it is leaking when the bike is being ridden, and needs to be fixed!
TOOLS

---

If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:

http://honda-cb750-s.456789.n3.nabble.com/new-to-the-motorcycle-world-tp4056199p4056200.html

To unsubscribe from new to the motorcycle world, click here.
NAML

[TOOLS1]

For cleaning the tank you could use low odor muratic acid for a fast clean, or vinegar if you have a few days to let it sit. As for the leak, it is not the petcock. It is the float needle valves. YOU WILL NEED TO THOROUGHLY CLEAN THE CARBS! This will require a total dis-assembly of the carbs. Soak the carbs in carb cleaner, or at least Pine-sol. However better yet would be to sonic clean them. Check the floats to make sure they have not dried out if they are the plastic floats, or that they do not have holes in them if they are brass. Check the brass overflow tubes in the float bowels to make sure they are not cracked, and clean the needle seats with a Q-tip and chrome polish.
TOOLS

[Kylemichael]

Okay cool I'll start dis assembling everything today and see how it looks. I just find it strange how one day it runs smooth and the next it won't even start. 

On Apr 19, 2015, at 10:52 PM, TOOLS1 [via Honda CB750'S] <[hidden email]> wrote:

For cleaning the tank you could use low odor muratic acid for a fast clean, or vinegar if you have a few days to let it sit. As for the leak, it is not the petcock. It is the float needle valves. YOU WILL NEED TO THOROUGHLY CLEAN THE CARBS! This will require a total dis-assembly of the carbs. Soak the carbs in carb cleaner, or at least Pine-sol. However better yet would be to sonic clean them. Check the floats to make sure they have not dried out if they are the plastic floats, or that they do not have holes in them if they are brass. Check the brass overflow tubes in the float bowels to make sure they are not cracked, and clean the needle seats with a Q-tip and chrome polish.
TOOLS

---

If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:

http://honda-cb750-s.456789.n3.nabble.com/new-to-the-motorcycle-world-tp4056199p4056202.html

To unsubscribe from new to the motorcycle world, click here.
NAML

[TOOLS1]

That's what dirt does.
TOOLS

[Kylemichael]

I pulled the carbs out and gave them a good cleaning but I noticed that my jet sizes were 40/120. This doesn't seem right if I was running pod filters and a straight exhaust. Could this be another reason as to why I'm stalling out while riding? 

On Apr 20, 2015, at 8:17 AM, TOOLS1 [via Honda CB750'S] <[hidden email]> wrote:

That's what dirt does.
TOOLS

---

If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:

http://honda-cb750-s.456789.n3.nabble.com/new-to-the-motorcycle-world-tp4056199p4056205.html

To unsubscribe from new to the motorcycle world, click here.
NAML

[TOOLS1]

It does not matter what jet size you have, you will never get it to run right with CV carbs, and pod filters. They just don't work.
TOOLS

[Kylemichael]

Cleaned out my tank with muriatic acid and distilled water and it cleaned it out great but a day later I check on it and all the rust came back. Once the rust is gone what can I do to keep it from coming back?

On Apr 20, 2015, at 8:30 PM, TOOLS1 [via Honda CB750'S] <[hidden email]> wrote:

It does not matter what jet size you have, you will never get it to run right with CV carbs, and pod filters. They just don't work.
TOOLS

---

If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:

http://honda-cb750-s.456789.n3.nabble.com/new-to-the-motorcycle-world-tp4056199p4056215.html

To unsubscribe from new to the motorcycle world, click here.
NAML

[TOOLS1]

I should have told you to thoroughly dry the tank out after cleaning. This will keep it from rusting so quickly. I do this by putting a heat gun into the gascap opening, and letting it run for about 20-30 minutes. I think a hair dryer would do the job also.
TOOLS

[Kylemichael]

Yeah I took an air compressor and sprayed the inside for 10 minutes and it felt dry. Do I need to seal or is it not required 

On Apr 22, 2015, at 10:10 PM, TOOLS1 [via Honda CB750'S] <[hidden email]> wrote:

I should have told you to thoroughly dry the tank out after cleaning. This will keep it from rusting so quickly. I do this by putting a heat gun into the gascap opening, and letting it run for about 20-30 minutes. I think a hair dryer would do the job also.
TOOLS

---

If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:

http://honda-cb750-s.456789.n3.nabble.com/new-to-the-motorcycle-world-tp4056199p4056249.html

To unsubscribe from new to the motorcycle world, click here.
NAML

[TOOLS1]

Compressed air is usually damp and will not dry the tank out very well. As for sealing it, I would throw it away before I would seal it.
TOOLS

[Re-run]

Yeah compressed ait doesn't do well unless you have an in-line dryer like painters use. Heat is best.

A liner is hit and miss. Some people have great luck with them. Others, not so much. Right up with this thread, is one where a person tried red kote and it didn't work out so well. Kreme used to be an ok liner, but with ethanol being shoved down our throats, it peels easily and clogs things up. I have heard of people using por15 with very good results. It is a 3 part system and many only do 2 of the steps and have good results.

There is nothing wrong with lining a tank though, not if done right. Indeed, many new bikes come with the tanks already lined.

If you choose not to line, then you have 2 primary ways of preventing rust. The method will depend on storage time.

If short term storage, such as over the winter. Put in half a can of seafoam and fill to the top. For me, the seafoam has negated the rapid decay of ethanol fuels quite a bit so the fuel is still good when I bring the bike out of storage. The full tank won't allow water to condense on the sides and bottom. So rust is prevented.

If long term, over 6 months. Drain the tank completely and wash out well. Dry it good and then I spray a shit ton of wd-40 in the tank and turn the tank so it gets to all surfaces. The wd-40 will displace any water that may get in. Get a couple packets of desiccant and put them in and seal all openings. The wd-40 protects the metal and the desiccant absorbs any water. Pain in the butt but it keeps tanks a long time, even in cold storage.

[LukeM]

Another option that holds some promise is to electrocoat the inside of the tank.  This involves a DC current source, an electrolyte solution, and a donor metal source.  There are YouTube videos out there that talk about de-rusting a tank, and I would presume there's a similar process to lay on a metallic coat on the inside of the tank to plate it.

Luke M

[Re-run]

I have heard of the electrolysis for de-rusting. It is supposed to work good, just takes a while. Better than having to work with acids maybe?