point gap and syncing

[katman]

Katman here,
I got the leaky carbs on my 77 fixed. new needles and readjusted the floats. Put all new points and cond. in. It says to set gap at .012 -.016. I did .013. Is this exceptable. Static timed it and will strobe it this weekend. Now, I have a set of vacuum gauges and want to try and check the carbs for sync myself.
Alittle intimidated, but what the heck. Anyone have a procedure in simple terms I can go thru to try.
Thanks Again

[sgtslag]

Have you downloaded the FSM (Factory Service Manual) from the home page?  Should be instructions within.  Cheers!

[TOOLS1]

I set points at .015, but .013 is perfectly acceptable. Be sure to strobe time it before syncing the carbs. Don't be intimidated. It is easy. When, you have the gauges hooked up, and start the engine, set the dampers, so the gauges have just a little bounce, and take your time. they should set around 9 lbs of vacuum. Also blip the throttle after each adjustment. You might also want to set a fan in front of the engine to keep it cool.
TOOLS

[Re-run]

Point gap is fine there. A closer gap gives more dwell time. As long as your static timing has the points opening at the F mark and the gap is correct, you are good.

As for sync, it is not hard but is time consuming.
First, you need and aux tank or a shelf and long fuel line for your current tank.
Then remove the caps on the tops of 1,3, & 4. #2 is your baseline carb and non-adjustable.
There are 4 small brass screws that will be removed, the brass nozzles will be screwed in here and the meter will attach to these.
Put a fan in front of the engine to keep it cool while you do this.
I forgot, run the bike for a while to get it up to normal temp.

From there, it is all about getting the sync as close as you can.
get the service manual, you can use the 78 manual for most everything for the 77.

[katman]

Okay, got new points and cond in. set points to.015. Static times both with small light
to get it running to use the strobe. Cannot get it to crank. have spark at the plugs but
I don't know how bright it should be. It almost fired. This was the same problem it had
when I went ahead and rebuit the carbs, Once it did run it would fire right up when hot.
It was just reall hard to crank when cold. Going to go back out and recheck point gap and static
time. Could I have a coil problem. Man I need a Corona.

[TOOLS1]

Static timing might be off. It is hard to static time. I just leave the point plate where it was. Then strobe time. Also check to see that the wires are going to the right sets of points. Another thing that has caused problems is setting the points at the T mark. They are not fully open there. Turn the crank to the highest part of the lobe, and set points there.
TOOLS

[katman]

Tools,
It's hard to tell which is the highest pint on the cam. I'm so used to a lobed cam. I am rotating until points open
and keep going alittle to make sure theres no difference.

[Lucky 1]

Turn the points very slowly and use a volt/ohms meter on the Ohms X 1000 scale.

If you use a light then the amount of resistance of the light bulb,
 until it lights up, can cause it to be off.

You want the points to JUST begin to open ,when the mark comes up.

[TOOLS1]

If, you watch the points, you will notice when they start to close. Take note of where they do that. then go around again, and stop right before that point. Set the gap there, and it should be good.
TOOLS

[katman]

Okay Tools,
Set the gap and  it tried to start but then wouldn't. It starts running the battery down pretty quick. What I did notice
with the key on and 1.4 point closed, opening them with a screwdriver I get a spark. I do not over on 2.3 when they are
closed with key on. I switched coils last night from my 75 thinking that might be the problem. New points and cond.
carbs rebuilt(Looks like I cured the leak problem by readjusting the floats like lucky showed me in his pick.

[katman]

Spark is there, just weak. Could I have a battery problem

[katman]

Okay.
Hope I am not boring everyone. After carefully sitting and looking at everything all point gaps and static timing correct. I could just spin it over and nothing.
Fuel in bowls, but pulled one of the plugs(also gettong spark here) and they were dry. Seems like I am not getting fuel to motor. So I said to heck with it and pulled
the airbox, squirted some fuel into cylinders while holding open throttle. Presto, fired up. Backed fired alittle thru carbs with airbox off. Warmed it up and shut it down.
Replaced airbox and it fired right back up. Went ahead a strobe timed and it was dead on from my static setting. Rode it and there was allittle hesitation if I opened
the throttle quickly. Went completely warm it ran and pulled great. I could shut it off and it would fire right up. I know if I let it sit aday it is going to be hard to crank again.
77k with accel. pump on carbs. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[shinyribs]

Bear with me,let me see if I understood you. Just reading your last post,it would crank but never fire. So you squirted fuel into the carbs manually and it started. Once warm it ran great for the rest of the day? Am i right or did i misunderstand.  

No worries of boring us. The ones of us who cant help (likely myself) will be glad to learn from your post (also...likely myself)

[TOOLS1]

Your pilot jets are plugged! You will need to pull them, and clean them. The hole is very small in them, but a thin guitar string will go through. To pull them get a 4-40 tap, a 4-40 screw with nut, and a short piece of tubing (a piece of break line tubing works great. Tap threads into the end of the jet. About 3/8 inch in (this will not hurt them). Sometimes the jet will come out while threading it. If it does not come out, slip the break line tubing over the jet. Place the nut on the screw, and screw it into the jet. then tighten the nut down on the tube, and the jet will come right out. To install them, just tap them back in with the handle of a screw driver.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

Thats what I was wondering too,Tools. No fuel at idle.

[katman]

D@#%%!,
Just had the carbs rebuilt. But this problem arose before then. Would not or very hard to crank when cold.
I replaced all ignition componets and timed. So I knew it couldn't be that. I had a bottle with a long tube
so I pulled the airbox and opened the throttle and shoved the tube in each carb and gave it a good squirt.
Bike fired up. It kept firing right up as long as it was hot or warm. Let it sit a couple of hours or a day and
same problem. Were are the pilot jets. I was wondering if my accel pump was not working. Keep the info
coming so I can get this fixed.
Katman

[Re-run]

Well an easy way to check the pump is to leave the air box off, turn on the fuel and twist the gas. You should see a jet of fuel from the opening of each carb. Look at the brass tips that stick up, the fuel comes from those. It should spray well, not a super thick stream but with enough force that it easily makes it into the carb throat. If it barely comes out, then start by removing the pump and cleaning it and the fuel passages.

One thing to really look for. There is a spot that the fuel comes out as it goes into the fuel tubes in the carbs. There is a small oring that goes in this location. I grabbed a standard round o-ring and it was TOO THICK. When the accel pump was reattached, the oring would squash down and since it was too thick, it sealed this opening. It is something to look for since it could be an easy mistake.

[katman]

Yea, I'm almost positive I wasn't seeing anything while twisitng the throttle with box off.
That's why I manully primed it. Why will it crank at the first touch of the starter when hot
and idle like a kitten. I don't know if the pump was replaced but I can get another. Do you
still think I might have a pilot jet problem.

[TOOLS1]

Take my word, for it "YOU HAVE A PILOT JET PROBLEM". If I had a nickle, for every time I heard "I just had them rebuilt, or synced" I could go on a 3 day binge. I just got done doing a tune up, and carb sync on a buddies CB 550 that had just been to a well known shop, for a tuneup, and carb sync. It ran OK, but I knew it was not right. When I finished my buddy said "I had no idea it was running that bad". Well anyway when the bikes is warm it does not need as much fuel to start, so it is not going to need the extra fuel that it can get from the pilot, especially when the choke is on. The fuel pump has more to do with acceleration then starting. Also the pump it's self hardly ever goes bad. What happens is the nozzles get clogged, or the check valves get stuck. If, you can wait until maybe Wed I'll take a set apart, and get some pictures up, for, you.
TOOLS

[Katman]

I think your right Tools. I'll check the acel pump when I take them back off. The guy did a beautiful
job rebuilding them, replaced all gaskets and orings, but I bet he didn't take out the pilots. I'll have to
try your method and take them out.