Re: New to the biker world

Posted by sgtslag on Jul 17, 2011; 7:51pm
URL: http://vintage-and-classic-hondas.81.s1.nabble.com/New-to-the-biker-world-tp3174129p3177434.html

There are many things to do to clean up your ride, but let me start with the simplest.

1)  Get some SeaFoam (any auto parts department, or store, typically $9/16 oz. can), put 1 oz. per gallon of gas, into the tank, and run it for several minutes, to get it to circulate throughout the fuel system (jump start the bike, if necessary, as this will also help identify whether the starter motor is good, or not...); let it sit overnight, then start, and run it down the road, if possible, to push SeaFoam'ed gasoline through the fuel system -- it will dissolve varnish deposits in the fuel tank, floats, and the carbs.

2) Add 1 oz. of SeaFoam, per quart of oil, to the crankcase.  Check the color of the oil first!  If it is already dirty, then change it, first.  After adding the SeaFoam to the crankcase, run the bike, on its centerstand, for around 5 minutes, shifting through all five gears, while idling!  The SeaFoam will dissolve, and liquify, sludge, and carbon deposits, within the engine, clutch assembly, and the transmission.  After five minutes of idling, shut it off, and check the color of the oil:  if dirty, dark, or black (most likely...), change both the filter, and the oil, immediately!

3)  Check the voltage on the battery, resting (1+ hours after shutting the bike off):  if it is less than 12 Volts, your battery is discharged -- charge it fully, then repeat this test after it has rested, off of the charger, overnight.  If it again is lower than 12 Volts, your battery is toast.  I would recommend an AGM replacement, over lead-acid -- more money, but will last 2-3 times longer, won't discharge over the Winter, unless you have accessories that drain it (clock, or some other powered device running after the key is off), no bother with water levels.

4) Check the electrical charging system by connecting a volt meter across the battery, with the bike running at 2,000 RPM:  if the voltage is less than 13 Volts, you have a problem with the alternator, or the rectifier/regulator, or the battery cables.  DO NOT RUN THE BIKE WITHOUT A BATTERY CONNECTED!!! (Use a Digital Volt Meter, typically less than $10 at local DIY stores, Menards, Mills Fleet Farm, Lowes, etc., in the Electrical Department.  DVM's are far more accurate, and useful, than an analog Volt Meter.)

After that, come back, and let us know what you found.

If well maintained, these bikes' engines are good for 70k+ miles, without major work.  Add in an oil cooler (can be somewhat complex, and challenging), and you could double their life.  The oil temperature, running down the highway, two up, with luggage, on my '79, ran at around 250 F, which is the limit for dino oils, before they break down into carbon sludge...  Synthetic oils won't break down until around 450 F!  I added an oil cooler, and my oil temperature, same load, same conditions, dropped to around 210 F (meter is not terribly accurate) -- hot enough to boil off any water.  Synthetic oil may extend your ride's life by twice, or more, and it is a lot easier to add, compared to an oil cooler.   Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic (diesel oil, also rated for cars...), is around $26-$29 per gallon, at Wal-Mart; no friction modifers to affect your clutch; rated SM for automobiles; 5W-40 viscosity rating, for easy starts in any temperature.  You can also extend the drain time to 7,000 miles -- longer with oil analysis.  Just some food for thought.  Cheers!