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Re: New to the biker world

Posted by LukeM on Jul 18, 2011; 3:46pm
URL: http://vintage-and-classic-hondas.81.s1.nabble.com/New-to-the-biker-world-tp3174129p3179584.html

Quick checks for electrical problems:

Start with a full charged battery. If you have to supplement your MC battery with one in a car, DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE WITH THE JUMPER CABLES CONNECTED. Car systems can put out more amperage than the bike can handle, and at the least, fuses will blow.  At the worst, other things might go *boom*.

Verify the battery post connections are tight, but not too tight.  The metal used for the posts is fairly soft, and I've seen a few broken posts over the years. Also make sure the main ground for the harness is up against bare metal on the chassis, and the terminals and hardware are good and clean.  After securing that bolt, it's nice to coat it with some anti-corrosion stuff.  I've used petroleum jelly, there's some spray-on stuff, and some goop you can get from the auto parts stores.

Verify the connections at the starter solenoid are good.  This involves a short heavy gauge red wire straight from the battery, a similar heavy gauge wire going to the starter, and 1 or 2 control wires coming from the START button.  When the key is on and you close the START switch, the solenoid should make a loud click, which means the contacts on the high current side have closed.  If not, it's possible to take the solenoid apart and clean the contacts.  Possible, but probably not advisable.  Replacements are not hard to locate.  If the solenoid doesn't click, you may want to check the continuity of the START button/switch.  

To test the starter, you can remove it from the engine, and connect it to the battery (bike battery if it's charged, a car battery IN A NON-RUNNING CAR is an alternative).  There WILL be some sparks, and the motor will torque around as it spins up, but it should spin freely.  If not, it's either electrical (bad brushes are a culprit) or mechanical (frozen or dry bearings).

It's a fairly simple system and not a whole lot to go wrong. The FSM has some good procedures as well.

Good luck, and I hope you get the carb problem sorted out.  I'm wondering if it's a carb sync issue: maybe the carb assembly is REALLY out of adjustment.  Better to get it idling first, then we'll worry about that.

Luke M


Used to have a 1979 CB750L, sold it as a parts bike, now riding a slightly modified 1984 VT700C. Network/Field Engineer. Central OH, USA, Earth, Sol System, Milky Way Galaxy, Universe.