Re: I just wanted a new transmission...
Posted by pwbcktftii on Dec 04, 2012; 5:01am
URL: http://vintage-and-classic-hondas.81.s1.nabble.com/I-just-wanted-a-new-transmission-tp4032820p4033082.html
URL: http://vintage-and-classic-hondas.81.s1.nabble.com/I-just-wanted-a-new-transmission-tp4032820p4033082.html
DYNA is still available new. I have some point eliminators in my bikes but, I don't know if you can get them new any more. I have 1 DYNA system I just got this summer. I haven't used it yet to give an opinion. FYI, DYNA is a true electronic ignition. It has a solid state box that should go around the frame tube under the fuel tank. I'm not sure of the brand of the point eliminator I have one in one of my 836 engines. It has the blue & yellow wires for the coils & 1 red wire for 12v feed to energize the pickups. I had to drill a second access hole in the bottom case for this wire with it's own rubber grommet & heat shield. It's patched into the hot wire for rear brake switch & it's been working real well. FYI, make sure you replace the seal in the rocker cover for the tach cable. Most common place to leak oil. Needed if you use tach or a plug. Some guys don't run the tach. Most choppers that's all you've got with springer or girder front ends. On most of these bikes 4000 r.p.m. in high gear is +/- 60 m.p.h. I' ld do the pistons & cam first if $ is an issue. You can change ignition any time & when engine is in bike. Make sure you get the matched head gasket when you punch it out, not the stock one. Kit may or may not come with it. Wiesco kits do come with all parts needed (pistons, pins, clips, rings, studs & gasket). Lots of choices in pistons though, High dome - high compression, std compression - higher displacement or both. I have been told this engine can be punched out to 1100cc. I don't think I want to go any more than 900cc. You'll need machine work done to cases, lightened flywheel, crankshaft, new rods, new valves & springs, new cam, machine work to rocker cover, give up elec start, lighter or 6 speed tranny & double chain or equivalent. I think this is too much modification for a street bike, drag strip OK.
-----Original Message-----
From: blk72750 [via Honda CB750'S] <[hidden email]>
To: pwbcktftii <[hidden email]>
Sent: Mon, Dec 3, 2012 9:02 pm
Subject: Re: I just wanted a new transmission...
From: blk72750 [via Honda CB750'S] <[hidden email]>
To: pwbcktftii <[hidden email]>
Sent: Mon, Dec 3, 2012 9:02 pm
Subject: Re: I just wanted a new transmission...
Gotta on the seals, and clutch I checked oil pump before I took the engine out it looked good no gunk on screen or the oil pan. I've been looking at cycle exchange for the 849 kit they have so much stuff on their site just trying to make heads or tails if it all. I was thinking about the electronic ignition but most of my budget is Hobbs be blown on the other engine upgrades. What's a good one to look for?
Just for piece of mind replace all seals in engine. Check clutch pad wear (you will need the 4 prong socket for this). Inspect cam, rockers & carriers (carriers are matched & stamped, do not mix up). Clean sump screen. May want to go with new oil pump if you punch it out. Unless you know the p.s.i. the pump developed when hot, from before tear down. There are a number of big bore kit companies out there. Do some research before you buy. Inspect stator wires for over heating. I strongly recommend using a torque wrench on all bolts in the engine. The only ones that seem to be a problem is the 6mm bolts in the cyl head. They may strip out when torqued. If they do, remove head & repair with a 6mm x 1.00 Heli Coil thread repair kit ($35.00). Also you could just go ahead & do it first. Measure the depth of the hole & use a long enough Heli Coil for the job. Read instructions carefully if you've never used one before. There are some hot cams available too. Might want to think about electronic ignition also. OK my last bit of advise, I know I will get some arguments about this, but, here goes - I use NGK D6EA spark plugs. Remember my 630 chain? My plugs are 10 years old also. Now here's my logic - The CURRENT books list the NGK D8EA plug for this application. Some where in the past the charts got changed. Originally they said NGK D7EA which is what they came with. D8EAs will foul out constantly & need to be replaced. D7EAs will be fine if you only drive your bike on hot summer days. Since I use mine 12 months out of the year, I find easier starts & faster warm up with the D6EAs. If you are going to drag race then D8EA is the way to go. Keep in mind that with this brand plug, the lower the # the hotter the plug. If you want to try these any Kawasaki dealer should have them in stock. Otherwise they need to be special ordered. FYI, I prefer to use oil coolers on all my bikes. I just feel it's hard to argue with success. hope this helps.-----Original Message-----
From: blk72750 [via Honda CB750'S] <[hidden email]>
To: pwbcktftii <[hidden email]>
Sent: Mon, Dec 3, 2012 6:39 pm
Subject: Re: I just wanted a new transmission...
Yeah was thinking about going up to the 849cc. On the engine I was thinking of using the new bottom and top casing, and the internals from the old one. getting the cylinders bored out, some work on the top end, new tranny and pistons. Did I miss anything I should update while I'm already in there? Here's some picks of what I got off today.
I am assuming you are refering to the cylinder studs. You didn't say how you got the 4 out. So, here goes. First try to unscrew the by the 2 nut method. Take 2 of the head nuts & make sure there clean. put a 12mm 6 point box end wrench on the stud (need for later). Install the first nut on a stud upside down. then install a second nut on regularly. Now take a second 12mm 6 pt. wrench & tighten the 2 nuts against each other as tight as you can. Now with the wrench that has the stud through it, try to unscrew the stud. Studs will flex some as you break them free. If it fells like there going to snap off, STOP. I realize this is a judgement call, but don't break the stud. Instead apply some heat to the aluminium around the stud bottom. A propane torch usually works. If not go to mapp gas or acetylene torch. Due to the hour glass shape of the cylinder studs I have not found a stud remover that will work here. Also I can't recommend vise grips, they will work but, you get deep bite marks in the stud. Then the stud will strech when torqued. Now that I said all this, I am assuming "again" that you have stock studs. I mention because, if you have any thoughts of going to an 836cc kit (or bigger). Then, now would be a great time to upgrade to the heavy duty studs that are 8mm thick top to bottom. Lastly use the 2 nut method to re-install the studs.
About a previous post - The engine cases are bolted together and machined as a set. I would take care when mixing tops & bottoms & years. Check crankcase breather spigot (2 sizes out there). There are differences in the counter shaft sprocket area (530 - 630 chain, rubber chain guide on older engines, different counter shaft covers). Also different clutch cover in '69', '70', '77' & '78' from middle years.
To all others I will take some pics & post when I can. My favorite chopper is apart right now for a new paint job. I am having the frame powder coated. FYI it's Jammer (Amen style frame) '78' SS engine, 836cc, Long twisted springer front end, king & queen seat, forward controls, tall sissy bar, Invader mag wheels & lots of chrome!PHILLIP Chop what ya got! G.O.T.F.
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PHILLIP Chop what ya got! G.O.T.F.
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