Posted by
sgtslag on
Jun 02, 2013; 11:52pm
URL: http://vintage-and-classic-hondas.81.s1.nabble.com/1981-CB750K-new-rider-not-so-new-bike-hlp-plz-tp4041627p4041677.html
You may need to perform a
load test on the battery: take it out, haul it to an auto parts store, and ask them to do the load test -- for free! If it passes, then make sure it is fully charged (if a flooded lead-acid battery, check the electrolyte levels, topping off each cell with pure,
distilled water only -- will require recharging after adding any water!) before working on the bike. Without enough electrical power, nothing will happen...
Check the battery connection wires: look for corrosion, green, or otherwise, on the wires. If they have a white frosting on them, mix some Baking Soda and water, to make a paste; then use an old toothbrush, and clean them with this paste: the frosting is acid, the Baking Soda paste will neutralize it, as well as remove it from the battery terminals, and the wires. Clean and dry everything, before re-connecting.
If the wires are showing a lot of broken copper strands poking out, you may need new end connectors. They typically crimp on, but they need to be securely crimped into place, or they will not conduct high current, causing a voltage drop at that point, robbing the rest of the bike of electrical power.
If the bike sat for more than a couple of months, the gasoline may have gone bad... The best thing to do, is to drain the gas tank into a proper gas can, then mix that fuel with 1.5 oz of
SeaFoam, per gallon, then dump the mixture into a car's gas tank -- fill it up to full, to dilute the old gasoline. This will safely dispose of the aged gasoline, without issue.
Once this is done, re-fill the bike's tank with fresh gasoline, and 1.5 oz. of
SeaFoam, per gallon:
SeaFoam will dissolve varnish in the tank, absorb water, and clean the carbs of minor varnish deposits; it will also stabilize the fuel for up to 12 months. There is no down-side to using
SeaFoam in the fuel system.
When you get the bike running properly, add 1-1.5 oz. of
SeaFoam to the crankcase. Go for a short ride to warm up the oil to 180 F, or higher (minimum operating temperature at which oil suspends crud to be caught by the filter), then drain the oil, and change the filter; add fresh oil, and done.
SeaFoam in the crankcase will dissolve carbon deposits, varnish, and other crud, within engine, and the transmission, turning the oil coal black. This treatment will only be needed every 20,000-50,000 miles, when using modern detergent oils (SL or higher). Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII