1981 Honda CB750K Charging Issues

[polar92bear]

Hello everyone. I just found the sight and I was wondering if I could get some advice. My dad gave me his 1981 Honda CB750K this year after buying a Harley. It's my first bike, and I've always loved it, but I'm having a few issues. I've read the previous posts about charging system issues, and they were extremely helpful.

My issue: Like others have stated, my battery is good, and was tested by Interstate(whom I bought it from last summer). As I ride for a little while, the battery voltage continues to drop. I checked voltage drop across the terminals with the bike at idle, and again 3k +, and saw the voltage continue to drop. I checked the stator wires and found my ohm readings to be within specs. I took the stator/cover off and tested the rotor across the slip rings, and found my readings there to be within spec also. But, when I removed the stator from the cover to inspect it closer, I found the insulation around the windings to be black and very crumbly, and a lot of corrosion where the wires come out of the stator. This leads me to believe that the issue is most likely with my stator, even though my readings were within specs.

My question: I looked around on Ebay, and found Clatric out of California that is selling the stator and rotor together for $160, both new, which seems like an amazing price for the two. Has anyone purchased from them before? Does this sound like too good of a deal to be true? Also, I found a new rectifier/regulator combo from Hillery Motorsports out of Oklahoma. It appears to be the updated version that makes it a one piece unit, priced at $78. Is the one piece unit a good option? And does this seem like a reasonable price?

Sorry for the long post, I just want to give as much info as possible so I can try and get this beast back on the road. Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm extremely happy to join the group.

Thanks,
Jeff

[Re-run]

If I remember right, TOOLS has bought their stuff and it has worked fine for him. That is also a really good price. Make sure you are checking all the connectors too. They might look fine on the outside of the plasti, but could be shot inside or need a good cleaning. Check all grounds too.

[polar92bear]

I'm still planning to replace and then go through the grounds. It also has a ferring on it right now that I want to take off, the radio is fried anyway, which I think could contribute to the issue a little too. I also need to replace the ignition switch, my dad lost the key for a little while and a friend thought he could turn the ignition with a knife... Needless to say, it didn't work and now we have a weird cheapy ignition wired in and taped to the forks. Any idea how hard it is to replace? Also, any advice on the regulator/rectifier combo that I found online?

[surfish95747]

Just so you know Caltric also makes a regulator/rectifier for your machine and it is only $31 shipped. Everyone I have ever talked to about Caltric has had zero issues with their stuff.

[TOOLS1]

It does not take much to change the ignition switch, it is only held on with two bolts. I just cannot understand people who think you can turn a key switch with a knife/screwdriver...
TOOLS

[Re-run]

Well, to be fair, many old ignitions could be turned that way. The key was almost an after thought. Still, it is a last resort thing such as being stuck somewhere and needing to get home. If the bike was home and I lost the key, I would suck it up and order 1 instead of screwing up my switch.

[TOOLS1]

That statement would have been correct in the 1950's, but not in the 1080's. Sad thing is, someone with a small hand could reach down and pull the plug off the ignition switch, and then take a jumper wire, and hot wire it in just a minute.
TOOLS

[Re-run]

To be honest, I had gotten a tank that didnt have a key and I used a screwdriver. Opened right up. So I thought if it was so easy, just try the key. Yeah, the key worked too. Then I got another tank as that one developed a leak. Tried key right away, opened up.

Funny thing about this is that the ignition is not sloppy like that, and neither is the seat lock.

[TOOLS1]

Yea, the gas tank lock is not very high tec.
TOOLS

[Re-run]

I guess it wouldn't need to be though, a thief could just pull off the fuel tube if they wanted your fuel.

[polar92bear]

That is true. If that's the case, and I order a new ignition also. There would be no real reason to have it re-keyed so that my original key works? I should be able to just use the new key in the tank slot?

[polar92bear]

Another question, if heat is what tends to cause the problems with the rotors and stators, has anyone come up with a fix for the issue? Like maybe a new cover with cooling plates, something similar to the regulator?

[TOOLS1]

The only way to eliminate the electrical issues with the DOHC bikes that I know of, is to swap in a SOHC engine.
TOOLS