78 CB750F2 fork seal replacement: What else while they're apart?

[Matt Story]

Title pretty much says it all.  Have my forks apart to replace the seals.  What else if anything should I look for while I'm in there?  Anything that particularly needs inspection or should be repaired as a matter of habit 'since they're apart'?

Thanks

[TOOLS1]

Put in fresh ATF.
TOOLS

[Matt Story]

Any tricks besides prying to get the old seals out?  I have changed fork seal a couple of times before.  I don't remember them being this stubborn.  These have been in for 36 years it seams....  Does it hurt to apply a liberal amount of heat to the tube?  Any particular tools to ease the job?

Thanks

[TOOLS1]

A heat gun, or a pan of boiling water works great to heat up the sliders where the fork seals are. This makes them come right out.
TOOLS

[Matt Story]

Perfect.  Thanks a lot.

[Matt Story]

So, realizing I didn't have any DexronIII, I dug around the garage and found an old unopened quart of Spectro 10wt fork oil.  How would this compare to the Dexron for ride?  Should I run it or go out and buy a quart of Dexron?  To give an idea how old it is, the price tag is $5.99.  I would guess I bought this in the mid to early 90's.

[LukeM]

Having just replaced the fork and dust seals on my VT700C Shadow, I'm thinking the CB750 would be about the same.

To get the seals out, you can use the dental pick approach (pry it out with a good strong metal pick), the heat gun approach (burn the thing out), or use the slider hammer approach (which I used).

You can pull the slider out of the fork repeatedly, and it will gradually pull out the slider bearing and fork seal. Putting back together, look at all the items you remove, and ask youself, "Do I really want to skimp on parts to save some money, or do I want to tear these things apart in a couple of years?"  For me, I put in new slider bearings, new circlips, new backup washers, new fork seals, and new dust seals.  I do not expect to be tearing these forks apart for a while.

I used ATF in my forks.  I didn't use the newest Dexron fluid, but Advance Auto Parts does sell a Dexron type for "older GM and Chrysler transmissions".  You could use the oil you have there, but after 20 years, I would suspect the oil is just too old and thick to use.

Hope this helps.
Luke M

[TOOLS1]

Luke, you are NOT burning the seals out. You are just heating them up, so they come out easier.
TOOLS

[TOOLS1]

The ATF is rated at 8 weight, so the 10m weight fork oil will work, it just might be a slightly stiffer ride.
TOOLS

[LukeM]

Oh, I don't know...sometimes a person would WANT to set part of the bike on fire.

I understand your method, TOOLS. Judicious application of heat can do wonders.
Luke M

[Matt Story]

I stood them up in a boiling sauce pan of water for about 3 minutes.  Popped right out.  I likr using boiling water for these kind of operations because you have good control of the heat.

I'm ok with a bit stiffer ride.  Just wondering if the oil is still good.  I'd hate to waste it if its good.  I think Ill try it.  Whats the worst that could happen?

[Matt Story]

I asked Spectro on their website if the oil would be OK to use.  They said it should be good for "many years" if cappped.  I'm going to go ahead an use it.