79 CB750F That has been in storage for 28 years

[EndersGame]

I got my dad's old bike which has been in storage for ever and a half. So I was thinking of fixing it up.

My question is what are the most common things I should look at for bikes that have been put away for long periods of time.

From my (novice) inspection. The tire treads are cracked so the tires have to go. Handle grips are bad. The exhaust rusted through, not just surface rust. I have to replace the rear lights (the bike was in storage because of an accident, only lights were damaged though). And the right brake handle doesn't resist when i compress it so i assume some of the wiring is bad.

Will there be things not in the service manual (that i found on this site thanks) that I have to keep in mind? E.G. I'm assuming all the oil will be completely dry instead of just cold. The manual says that I should warm up the motor before draining the oil...

I have around 1k to spend on the bike max. And would prefer if I fixed most of it up myself.

Anyways thanks a lot. I don't have much experience with bike repairs so I don't know exactly what questions to ask you guys. If you think of any else it would be greatly appreciated.

Pictures!
http://imgur.com/a/AwOaV#0

[TOOLS1]

Welcome to the forum. The first thing I would do is get the engine running. As long as it has oil in it, you can start it. It does not matter how old it is, but I would change it right after, you get it running good. You will probably need to clean the carbs, and check the plug wires, and boots. After it is running then tackle the other parts like the breaks, and lights.
TOOLS

[Beekeeper]

Have you started it yet?  I have the same machine, in storage for a similar amount of time.  I have it cranking and I have spark at all 4 plugs.  Lights and turn signals are working.  The throttle and choke linkage are frozen, so I imagine there is a ton of varnish and who knows what else in the carbs.  So far, itis a real chore and I'm struggling to get them out.  How are yours?

[robs750]

If the bike was stored for that period of time with gas in the tank and carbs,your gonna have same major work to do.The gas will gum up/crytalize the inside of the carbs.I have seen jets plugged up with solid hard crap that is almost impossible to remove.All the rubber components will have to be replaced.

[sgtslag]

Check the level of the oil, before you try to turn it over...  It should have a dip stick, left side, round, black knob which twists open.  If the oil level is good, then go ahead and try to fire it up.  As stated already, the carbs are likely a mess, and it is doubtful that gas will flow through them.

Go to YouTube.com, and type in "motorcycle carb cleaning":  this will give you many videos to choose from, but there is a three-part series which I am following, with great success, thus far.  The wire to use, to poke through the jets, to open them up, is just some 14 GA, stranded wire -- strip around 4" of bare stranded wire, separate out a single strand, and poke it into the jets, twisting the wires/jets, so as to clean all of the gunk out.

I did not use carb cleaner, as it will destroy rubber, and possibly plastic parts.  I used Citrus Blaster degreaser/cleaner, available at auto parts stores, and maybe Wal-Mart's auto supply section.  It is rubber, and plastic safe, and it won't leave a residue.

Once you get the engine running, buy some SeaFoam Engine Treatment, Wal-Mart, around $9/can.  Follow the directions, and add it to the crankcase oil.  Run the engine for five minutes, on the center stand, idling(!), shifting through all five gears, letting the rear wheel spin freely; then put it in neutral, and shut it down.  Change the now-coal-black oil, and filter.  The SeaFoam in the crankcase oil, will dissolve varnish, and carbon deposits, within the engine, and the transmission (that's why you want to shift through all five gears, while idling...).  A lot of the crud will be caught in the filter, so you need to get it all out ASAP.

Fill with a good quality oil, and a new filter.  Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic Oil (~$21/gallon @ Wal-Mart) is a diesel oil, rated SN for cars, no friction modifiers, so it is safe for wet clutch motorcycles.  It has high detergent levels, so it will keep your bike's engine nice and clean (should never need to SeaFoam the engine/transmission again...).  It is also 5W-40, so it is perfect for easy starts, in any vehicle, or engine, in any climate (I use it in every engine I have).

Come back here with any questions you may have.  Best of luck!  Cheers!

[Beekeeper]

I'm anxious to have a look inside, but so far, the frustration of trying to get them out from between the airbox and engine has me muttering to myself.  The fuel tank appears to be clear, wih no rust visible, but I haven't run anything through the petcock to check it out yet.  I was hoping to hit the linkage with some PB Blaster and have it come loose, but no joy.

Great information in your post.  I hadn't thought of utube, but I should have since a video recently walked me through replacing both upper and lower ball joints on my truck

[seestheday]

Hey Beekeeper, have you read all of the info on the DOHC carb cleaning procedure thread?  Lots of great info/resources there.

Getting the carbs out is a pain the first time I did it, but once I figured it out it's now a breeze.  Are your boots hard as rocks?

I found that removing the rubber connectors between the airbox and the carbs was a must before I could remove them.  That step isn't always in the instructions that are available.

[Beekeeper]

I went over the information once before, and will print it out when I get the carbs out.  I have the airbox disconnected, but I hadn't removed the connectors from the carbs so I think that is what is restricting the movement I need to disconnect them from the engine.  I didn't notice them being that hard, but probably because I haven't had them out in my hands.  

I've been spending a lot of time on the site, trying to learn from real life experiences as well as studying the Clymer book.  So far I see front caliper leaks, front master cylinder failure, and fork seals in addition to the carb work.  Should be fun and I appreciate the help.

[Beekeeper]

I guess I'm stealing this guys thread.  Same machine with similar situation.  There has to be something I am missing here.  I pulled the boots off between the carbs and the airbox.  They are a little dusty, but soft and plyable.  I wiped them off and they look brand new.  I fumbled with the choke butterflys and they came loose and functional.  But for the life of me, I can't get any movement on the carbs themselves.  I have attempted to wiggle them to loosen them on the boots between the carbs and cylinder, no luck.   The screw clamps are all loose.  I have used a screw driver to pry on the boots on the carbs, but still no movement.  I don't see anything that is holding them in place, but they won't move.  I'm nervous about pulling/prying too hard and breaking/bending/ruining something that is difficult to replace.  Do you guys just keep prying applying pressure?  Or is there some secret to this?  I don't think they have been off since some time in the early to middle 80's

[Piute]

 

   I used the straw with W.D.40 Lil under were I could give it time to seep around,Try twisting(just a bit )back N forth them Like a throttle just to crack the seal,Lil mo spray.

[Beekeeper]

I appreciate the tip.  For whatever reason, I really seem to be struggling with this.  I did liberally use WD 40 but maybe did not get it far enough under the lip of the boot.  I'll  get back on it.

[shinyribs]

When you pry in one spot you run the chance of hurting something. I'm not fussing at you,just sayingWhen I do it I sit on the bike and grab the two outer carbs in my hand and push down.I don't do it with a shove or a jerking motion.I just push down and gradually just keep pushing harder until they pop off. The rack or frame that the carbs are mounted on are somewhat brittle and can easy to break if you pry too hard in the wrong spot,but when pushing on the carbs themselves you spread the load out and you can push pretty darn hard without hurting anything.

My boots are hard like bricks. I'm sure soft,supple boots would come off easier,but mine still come off OK. I would say don't pry with a tool,but just keep pushing. Good luck!

[seestheday]

I found that I had to push, pull and rock them side to side with quite a bit of force the first time I took them off.  Bike was on the center stand and I sat on it with the seat off grabbing the carb bank on the sides with my hands.

You should just be able to keep working them and they'll come off.

[rrgunslinger]

I'm with Shiny on this one.  Plush down then pull up then down....They will come off.

On Tue, Jun 5, 2012 at 11:53 PM, shinyribs [via Honda CB750'S] <[hidden email]> wrote:

When you pry in one spot you run the chance of hurting something. I'm not fussing at you,just sayingWhen I do it I sit on the bike and grab the two outer carbs in my hand and push down.I don't do it with a shove or a jerking motion.I just push down and gradually just keep pushing harder until they pop off. The rack or frame that the carbs are mounted on are somewhat brittle and can easy to break if you pry too hard in the wrong spot,but when pushing on the carbs themselves you spread the load out and you can push pretty darn hard without hurting anything.

My boots are hard like bricks. I'm sure soft,supple boots would come off easier,but mine still come off OK. I would say don't pry with a tool,but just keep pushing. Good luck!

Montvale,Virginia
 Piute said it best:  "wheres my 10mm?"
Hellbilly-"that is a great way to tell if you have come to your senses, when you start drilling random holes in things... "

LukeM-"Scooters rock, especially when they're in posse formation. "

Those who are too smart to engage in politics are punished by being governed by those who are dumber. ~Plato

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NAML

[Beekeeper]

The WD40 overnight worked some magic.  I could tell right away that the boots were more plyable on the carbs.  I twisted and leaned on em a bit and off they popped.  Initial inspection of the carb throats and throttle plates finds them clean and shiny.  Thanks for everyones input, and I'll probably be back pestering everyone in a couple days.

[robs750]

It may be easier to remove the the carb rack by removing the tank first,then from above grab the the outside carbs and rock them up and down while pulling.

[Beekeeper]

The tank and seat were off.  The battery box was loosened up so I could push the airbox back further.  I finally found time to pull off the float bowls and inspect the jets.  Plugged up, and the O-rings and gaskets are dry and stiff.  I ordered my rebuild kit and hopefully it will be here in time for me to get serious with it next weekend.

[Beekeeper]

Well, it's been a while, but cranked the old girl up today.   I put a box fan in front of her and let her run for a while.  (well over 100 degrees in the garage)  After several minutes, I started to get white or grey smoke from cylinder 1 or 2.  I let the motor cool for several hours, then started it again.  No smoke until warmed up, and then builds pretty quickly.  Guess I have more work ahead of me.

[Beekeeper]

 Well, I powerwashed the oil off the engine case, changed the oil and filter, cleared out the fuel with the Seafoam additive.  No more smoke.  The old tires had some dry rot in the sidewalls, so I have Shinko 712's newly mounted and balanced.  She's making good power, and groans about like expected when dragging my 300 lbs up the hill.   Brakes rebuilt and stopping the beast.  Mufflers are riddled with cancer right behind the 2 into 1 collector on both sides,(the rust and small cracks turned into gaping holes after a few short rides. so probably have to drop a small fortune on some slip ons.  DMV says they will issue new plate and registration for 78 somolians.  I may get a few rides up the canyon before too much longer!

[wes]

beautiful machine!!