Another pod question

[zedx]

Ok so after almost a year I am getting so close to taking my bike forits first ride but I can't get it to run well enough. I have pod filters and a 4 into 1 open header with 120 jets. My question is where should I base line my carb settings at or go about adjusting them? Turning the screw out on the carbs will that Ritchen the mixture or lean it out?

Bike motor is a  78 SS motor with PD carbs.

Please help I desperately want to ride this beast!

[zedx]

Also does anyone know of a good write up on lashing the valves. I have done it a few times now and every time I go back and check them I get different measurements.

[shinyribs]

I can't be of any help on those carbs.Zero personal experience with those. Sorry.

It is pretty well received to run the valve lash a tad looser than what Honda calls for in the FSM. Most guys run them at .003'' intake and .004'' exhaust. Set them while the motor is at operating temp.

I know alot of folks set there valves while watching the timing marks. I personally don't care for that. I just keep turning the engine until the valve I want to adjust is closed (all the way up) then I turn the crank just a bit more to verify it doesn't move any (open,or down). There is quite a bit of ''dwell'' time that the valve stay closed. IMO, it's really easy to just eye-ball for a closed valve. Served me well so far!

The most important thing is to make sure they are not too tight. A valve that is adjusted a little too loose won't really hurt anything . Now, if it is loose enough that they are noisy and clacking you can wear out some stuff. A valve too tight can cause allll sort of problems: burnt valves, preignition, spitting and sputtering,loss of power, backfiring...etc.


How much are your readings varying? You might actually be witnessing accelerated cam wear and/or rocker arm wear.

It's a real stinker trying to get in there and measure these things. If you can remove the valve cover it makes the job a breeze! Of course you have to remove two pieces of frame tubing to do that,though. I'll leave that decision up to you. But,for what it's worth, I whacked mine off.

[TOOLS1]

Pretty much what Shiny said, but I DO NOT like to work on a hot engine, so I do mine cold. I use a motion pro valve adjusting tool. You can get them on e-bay, I think I got mine from Z1enterprises.
TOOLS

[zedx]

Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated!

I think I have the valves lashed wrong. I haven't checked them yet this year but I believe I was thinking that 1-4 and 2-3 cylinders fire at the same time. Think I adjusted the intakes at the same time on those cylinders which most certainly would be wrong. I'm going to redo it tomorrow, ha, the right way and see where that gets me.

Is it correct that moving the pilot screw out will richen the mixture? My Only experience with carbs is with a snowmobile and the mixture screw leans the mixture as it is moved out...

[TOOLS1]

The screw will do different things on different types of carbs. For instance on the older Roundtop carbs it is an Air Screw. On the newer Key Hole carbs, it is a fuel screw.
TOOLS

[Re-run]

I use this trick. Cuts down on how long it takes. I also do the .003/.004 for gap. It does cause a slight touch more valve train noise but it robs no power, is not causing damage, and the parts will last longer.

http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/vlvadj/vlv.htm

[zedx]

Thanks guys! I relashed the valves the way rerun said and found out I had a dead coil. Got it to run pretty damn good and took her for my first ride! It was amazing! Can't tell you guys enough for all the help the last year to get this thing going....

[zedx]

Does anyone know why my coils would go bad? They re both bought brand new last year, It looks like it melted from the inside out. pushed the leads right out of the coil itself. Someone said that It could be because I may have left it in run position whiile not running and one of the points was closed causing it to load up a charge and no where to go. Does this sound feasible?

[Re-run]

It is sure possible. Say if you left it on for a few minutes or more. While the point is closed, it continues to saturate the coil, once full, it is bled off in the form of heat. But, it could have just been a bad coil, even if new. I would test it to be sure.

[zedx]

No kidding... It's defiantly bad now. It squeezed out the leads to the coil.