Anyone want a 400F

[shinyribs]

I know a guy in Arizona that has a complete CB400F. Unsure of the year. Anyone interested?

I'm hoping someone will but it before he parts it out. I'd hate to see it die, but I'm too far away.

[TOOLS1]

Send it to me!
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[OnyxWolf]

How much are they asking?

[shinyribs]

Sorry for not answering sooner. I'm not sure what he's asking, but I can PM his info to you so y'all can talk if you like.

If I wasnt in the middle of building a garage I'd probably buy it myself. Hate to see it get parted.

[TOOLS1]

Building a garage! How big? 
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[shinyribs]

Nothing fancy.

I'm building a 24 x 24 with just 8' walls. I don't need high ceilings and don't want them. The ground is bad in this spot so traditional footer + foundation wall would have been very expensive. There's 5' of slope from the front wall to the back wall. I'm building piers for footings. Four rows of four, 2'x2' concrete footings with stacked block. Solid red clay here and our frost line is 24". Digging it all by hand and having soooo much fun.

The building will have one 9'x7' garage door, one person door and a wood floor. Everyone says I'm crazy, but I guarantee that it will hold a passenger vehicle just fine. I've seen lofts in barns packed with rolls of hay that I know weigh more than a car, and they are 100 years old and built with less wood/bracing than these piers will give. With the pier spacing as it is there will be no lumber spanning over 6'. 2x10 yellow pine joists on 1' centers.  If everything goes according to my math I should be all done for under $6k. It's not the first thing I've built that people said wouldn't work! :)

So, are you coming to VA or what??

[shinyribs]

Got in touch with the guy yesterday and he's already started parting it​ out. :(

[TOOLS1]

24'X24' is a good start, but not near big enough. My Dad said "you never build a garage big enough". There is nothing wrong with a wood floor in a shop. I know a guy that has a two story shop, and the upper floor is wood. It was done with engineered floor trusses and Advantec 4'X8' underlayment. There have been many cars restored/customized on that floor. The Advantec has held up to floor jacks, jack stands, chemicals, and welding. I would recommend you spend the extra for Advantec, it is well worth the extra few $$$
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[shinyribs]

I agree on the Advantec. That was the plan. I like the tongue and groove it uses. Regular t&g osb is weak in my experience.

I was worried about the 3/4" Advantec spanning the 12" on center joists. Reckon it'll flex too much? Been thinking about stripping the floor with 5/4 boards, then lay the ply down. Would I be making it better or just adding dead weight?

This will be a motorcycle garage with parking for the mower and tiller. I don't plan to ever park any cars inside, except for small jobs. Like oil changes or tire rotations. I want to keep this shop pretty  clean ( meaning no metal work) so I'll have a decent place for wood working projects. I'm hoping I don't outgrow it. Hell, it started out as a 12x 20 shed and grew in to this already. lol

[TOOLS1]

12" on center will be overkill for what you are planning. You could park a big truck on that. The Advantec should not have any flexing, and be fine for floor jacks, and jackstands. Some things I would also recommend is put solid blocking across the floor joists every 8', and use Liquid Nails on the joists when installing the Advantec, and use ring shank 8d nails. That floor will not move.
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[shinyribs]

Actually, the floor joists will only be 8' long. The foundation piers are every 8' on center. Instead of spanning long joists, I was going to just hop from pier to pier. Basically, it will be three sections of 8x24 floors butted together...if that makes sense? You really think it ain't flex between the joists? I know you have way more experience with this than I do.

[TOOLS1]

You can span 8' without any blocking. However you will need some major beams going between the piers for the joists. At least 3-2"X10" for these beams. I would suggest 2-2"X10" LVL's for these beams. If it were me, I would use 2"X10"X12' for the joists, and one LVL beam down the center with solid blocking at 6'. This would save a lot of $$$  and be just as strong.
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[shinyribs]

Ok, now school me on what a LVL beam is.

[TOOLS1]

LVL=Laminated veneer lumber. Just ask for them at your local lumber yard. One very strong piece of wood.
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[Truck]

LVL = super plywood.... Basically Tools is building you a tank shed...

[TOOLS1]

Knowing Shiney, he is liable to end up with a tank sometime.
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[shinyribs]

Well, I do have an old JD 450 track loader that I don't use anymore since I picked up the JCB rubber tire loader. The JCB's backhoe runs circles around the JD and doesn't tear up the ground so bad. Maybe the track loader could get a new job as a tank...

Looked in to those laminated beams. PRICEY! I'm also a little worried about how they would handle the humidity. This building won't have an enclosed crawl space. It'll be closed off with wire and lattice to keep the critters out, but that's it. Underside will be for storage, too.

If I'm using 2 x 12's for floor joists, any particular reason to use 2 x 10's for the beams? It's only a few dollars more per board ( so roughly $12 per beam) between the two sizes.

I think I'll stick with hopping from pier to pier. It's tempting to go the easy way with 12' joists and one center beam, but I'd feel better with only 8' joists and two center beams. That way each cross beam is directly supported by a pier. With 12' joists, my center beam will be floating between the center piers.

And now I wonder about the Advantec being exposed on the bottom side. Hmm...it'll never see weather, but it does got awfully humid around here.

[TOOLS1]

The Advantec is water resistant, and it is exposed on the underside of a house. However if you are worried, you can put down a visqueen vapor barrier on the ground. As for the LVL beam in the center, you will more then offset the cost over using the 2 S4S lumber beams, and it will be stronger.
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