Back in the motorcycle saddle again...

[free2ride]

I travel to Toronto every couple of months . . . have to go in a week and a half and have hal;f a mind to ride, but 4 hours on the 401 just doesn't appeal to me.

Was on the interstate on the way to Florida last year [car, unfortunately] and it seemed drivers were a lot more aware of bikes.

[LukeM]

I think I have a workaround for the cylinder head cover to tachometer drive seal problem.  I think I will get some black RTV sealant, work up a bead around the drive part, and put the cover back on.  That should tighten things up considerably.  The only downside would be that the seal will hold the cover to the head, but some work with a sharp blade should free that up.

If I get a chance, I'll hit a Honda Powersports store and see if they have the part there.  That might be a safer bet.

Luke

[LukeM]

Took the Avenger out for a run today, and noticed the acceleration was off a bit.  I blamed it on the mist I was riding in, but it didn't seem to come alive until I got to 4500 rpm or so.  As soon as I dropped below that, it started almost loading up.  Stalled at a light, and didn't want to fire off again.

Got it home, and noticed cylinder/exhaust pipe #4 was much cooler than the rest.  I couldn't touch 1 - 3, but could easily leave my fingers on #4.  Pulled the plug, and I was getting spark on it.  It looks oil fouled and possibly fuel fouled as well (shiny black, and either gas or oil at the end of the exhaust pipe).  Compression feels good: roughly the same as the others.

So, until I can verify the compression, I'll have to put it up for a while.  My guess at this point is the rings and piston are probably OK (good pulses from the exhaust), and the issue is either valves or valve guides/seals pulling oil into the chamber.  I know cylinder #1 has an issue as well (smokes from the pipe, possible oil problem there as well). Might be time to pull the head, get it redone, and put it back on.

I was hoping to get some time in this summer, but maybe the Avenger is sicker than I originally thought.  Still, the original investment of $500 is still less than it's worth, and if the head work is another $500 or so, I'm just about breaking even.

Comments, questions, and suggestions (sane ones) are welcome.
Luke M

[Re-run]

When I had this issue, it was a dirty carb and thats all. Might just be some junk in the idle circuit and once your hit 4500, you are starting to get some help from the mains probably.

[LukeM]

I will check that as well.  There is some wet discharge (npi) on the #4 plug, and some out that exhaust as well.  Looks almost like liquid graphite. Thanks for the input, Re-Run.  I was thinking of going the Seafoam route, but if the carb has some crud buildup, it's probably teardown/rebuild time.
I also had time to check the tank, and there's some rust in there. While I like the do-it-yourself tank de-rusting methods, I think I'll look into taking it to a radiator shop for hot-tanking. I don't know what this will do to the paint. I've seen clean tanks for this model on eBay for $100-250. I think the shop can clean it out nicely for less than that.  Time for more research.
I'm still wondering if I've bitten off more than I can chew with this project.  Computer systems and networks I can do, but it's been a LONG while since I dug into engines and stuff.  Maybe this'll be good for me...?

Luke M

[Re-run]

You can take it to a radiator shop for sure. Certainly would not hurt. Probably less than $100 to do the job.
If you decide to, a por-15 kit for motorcycle tanks works great too.

That rust though could certainly have plugged the carb up. #4 was just the lucky victim.

[LukeM]

Well, I'm not sure what's happening here...
I took the Avenger out for a few runs, and it's running pretty well.  No smoke, no flat spots, accelerates well, no stumbles.  Weird.
Also, I listened to the evil voices in my head, and decided to see what the bike would do with some full throttle acceleration runs.  So, I got up to 75 without too much effort.  The bike pulls well in gears 1 - 4, and when I chicked out at 75 there was plenty of throttle left, plus 5th gear.

I still intend to run all the gas out of this tank, then get it cleaned out at the local radiator shop.  Once that's done, I'll take out the petcock and clean the strainer (assuming there's one in there) and then pull the carbs and clean them.  So the bike won't be on the flight line for a while.  I went to the local Kawa/Suzi MC shop, told them about the wet black stuff on plug #4, and they agreed it's a fuel problem.  They would clean the carbs for me for about 3 hours of labor at $75/hour.  I think I can do it cheaper, as long as I don't need lots of parts and stuff.

Updates to follow.
Luke M

[Re-run]

Use the manual and clean it yourself. Trust me you will most likely do a better job anyways. If it is just dirty jets, just cleaning them out will take care of it. It is likely the idle jet.

[LukeM]

Re: carb cleaning. I intend to do it myself.  That's one of the reasons why my family gave me this machine. Tinker time.  First, though, I have to get the tank inside good and clean.  No sense cleaning the carbs if they're going to get junked up again.

Going to read the factory and Haynes manuals a few more times.  I've heard Simple Green is good for cleaning, but I'm thinking something a bit more stout, like a quart of good carb cleaner.  Any suggestions?

Luke M

[Re-run]

Well I generally suggest a por-15 tank kit. A bit expensive but worth it. It comes with a strong cleaner, then a metal prep/etch followed with a sealer to prevent future rust. Last I checked, the basic kit, which is all you need, was something like $45-50. You can use other cleaners such as MEK but you are getting into pretty nasty chemicals.

[LukeM]

My question was what to use to clean out the carbs/jets.  I was leaning toward Simple Green, but that may be better for the outside.  I used to use Gumout back in the day, but I don't know if it's available in a pint or quart size: just the spray cans.

I'll ask the autoparts person what they recommend.  Might be nice to get an ultrasonic cleaner at Harbor Freight to blast away stuff, but that might be a bit much.

Luke M

[Re-run]

Sorry I was on a tank kick!

I love soaking my carbs in simple green. The stuff is non-toxic, cleans well and does not have a nasty odor.
Add a few pieces of copper strands to clean the jets emulsion holes and you should be good.

[LukeM]

NO need to apologize. I'll dig up a copper brush, and a can of compressed air (from the factory manual) after I get the inside of the tank done. Maybe next week, if the rain keeps coming like it's been.

Oh...maybe my wife was feeling a bit left out...so we found her a Honda Metropolitan scooter. It's a twist and go style, 50cc, and surprisingly quick.  Thanks to Caitlyn at Capital City Scooters for a very smooth and friendly transaction (it's her shop). Now she needs to pass the MC temps test.  Hee hee hee.

UPDATE: she passed the MC temps test with flying colors, and is now happily buzzing around the neighborhood.  Also (I know, it's cheating), since it's a 50cc motorcycle technically, she can use it to take her motorcycle license test.  I may use it to get mine. :-)

Luke M

[Re-run]

Well good for her! Women like bikes too. My wife has a rebel and she loves riding it, just not in traffic.

[mikey440]

 Hey Luke, be sure to run duel inline fuel filters after all that carb and tank work,,good luck, mykey440

[LukeM]

An excellent idea, however the length of fuel line from the petcock to the fuel manifold is less than 9 inches, and it makes a couple of bends.  It's not the factory petcock: it exits out the bottom instead of out the side, so the fuel line makes a bend like a P trap on the drain of a sink.  Maybe I could sneak in a single filter.

Also, there may be a screen or something inside the petcock, but I've heard they can't be taken apart.  I've still got 4 gallons of gas in there, so I'd rather burn that off before messing with derusting and changing out petcocks and stuff.  Man, those things are pricey and hard to get ahold of as well.

Ah, the joys of running a 30 something bike.
Luke M

[mikey440]

 hey luke, you gotta have at least 1 inline fuel filter on there or youll be having nothin but trouble, if you can slip 1 in there get the best u can buy, if your relying on the petcock screen only you will have clog after glog even if you clean tank, honest, squeeze 1 in that line somehow or youll be sorry, honest,,,mykee440

[mikey440]

 If you run that 4 gallons of gas out of a rusty tank without a inline filter all those rusty particles are gonna stop up your idle circuit and much more,,,hate to see ya do all that tank and carb cleanin work only to have to do it over and over cause of a 10.00 inline filter,,,get 1 good up to 60 microns....mykee440

[mikey440]

 the screen up inside the tank is probly in poor shape, most guys get rid of it and run the 2 inline filters will do nicely...good luck, let us know...

[Re-run]

The intanks actually work very well. Inlines are cheaper but the tank one can be reused.
Most get in lines as many previous owners discard the intank instead of cleaning it.
Either one should be used though, can't disagree with that!