Battery not getting a charge

[James Temple]

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[TOOLS1]

Probably the rotor has gone bad. This is very common on the DOHC bikes. You can download the manual from the manuals section here, and there is detailed testing procedures in it.
TOOLS

[Johnnylevi]

On the core itself behind the right side cover you can test the resistance(ohms) using a volt meter. Just set it to ohms and touch the negative and positive to either of the 2 copper rings. So - on the inner and + on the outer ring. I forget what the ohms should read. Something like... 3.5 or 4.5...

[Lucky 1]

Why don't you buy a multimeter and actually find out what is going on instead of having to guess?

You can test your battery AND test your charging system.
A simple analog multimeter is only $24.99

You cannot see electrons, you can only measure them.

[sgtslag]

Actually, a good Digital Multimeter can be purchased for less than $20, at stores in the USA like Menards, Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.  Many of these will have a "Diode Test" feature, which can be used to test the Rectifier diodes, within the Rectifier/Regulator device, more accurately than the Ohmmeter test, specified within the FSM:  the Diode Test will check for 0.6 Volt drop across the diodes, instead of a variable resistance reading; the test is thorough, effective, definitive, and it's a pass/fail only, no guesswork involved.  Cheers!

[Lucky 1]

Thanks SGTSLAG.

[James Temple]

Thanks for the info. Will check reads with my Volt/Ohm meter.
Jim

[trapper]

Little helpful info for ya right on of the book (I broke down and bought one cuz the downloadable here can be a little blurry on the wiring diagrams and I can't bring my computer to my garage haha)

"Stator Testing"
1. Inspect the right-hand side cover and disconnect the alternator electrical connector. This connector contains 5 wires - 3 yellow, one black and one white (a little different on mine but this is what the book says)
2 Use an ohmmeter and check the continuity between each yellow terminal. The specific resistance between all yellow terminals (in my case black) is 0.41- 0.51 ohms. Replace the stator if any yellow terminal shows no continuity to any other. This would indicate an open winding.
3. Use an ohmmeter and check for continuity between all 5 terminals and ground. Replace the stator if any terminal shows continuity to ground. This would indicate a short in the wiring.

Try that, if it's good then I'll type out the rotor test for ya. Good luck

[James Temple]

Stator tests out ok.(0.3 ohms) Brushes- one is worn twice as much as the other. Rotor tests out at 1.5ohms. But regulator tests out with 126 ohms to each yellow from either red/white or black. My conclusion is a bad reg. Anyone have problems with this too. It is original too.

[rich]

I'm thinking the rotor. 1.5 doesn't sound good. I've always thought it needed to be 4.

[James Temple]

EASIEST JUST TO send to dealer. I have neither the time or $ to screw around all summer. Riding season is too short here. Thanks anyways guys.

[TOOLS1]

"EASIEST JUST TO send to dealer. I have neither the time or $ to screw around"

TOOLS