Changing air assisted fork seals on DOHC??

classic Classic list List threaded Threaded
5 messages Options
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Changing air assisted fork seals on DOHC??

slownugly007
My plan is to change my fork seals out while the bikes down and before I start ridding it full time. Right now Im just gathering the parts and info and when I get everything Im going to do fork seals, dust seals, gaiters (do i need dust seals if I run gaiters?) and lower it an inch or so. My questions(s) is/are....with the air assisted forks what process will I have to endure in order to swap out seals? Also, is there anyway I can buy regular fork nuts and do away with the balance tube/air assist? or is it best to just leave it as is?? Thanks in advance guys!
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Changing air assisted fork seals on DOHC??

slownugly007
Got a little giddy and put in an order with vintage cb! I love ordering parts!!  I got my dust seals, fork seals and all new brake pads...they have them on sale right now, so if anybody needs some check out vintage cb750.
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Changing air assisted fork seals on DOHC??

TOOLS1
Administrator
If, you look in the build section, for "My buddies POW, MIA bike" It shows how to change the seals. It is the same procedure, for the DOHC forks. Also, you will not need dust seals if running gators. However since they will not interfere with the gators on the DOHC forks, I would go on, and use them to.
As, for the nuts. I have wondered this myself. I was going to check to see if SOHC nuts would fit.
TOOLS
Life is not about the number of breaths, you take, but the moments that take your breath away.
I don't have an anger problem. I have an idiot problem. Hank Hill
Never confuse education for intelligence.
Happiness is a belt fed weapon.
I just can't imagine what could go wrong.
No fire? No explosions? So whats the point of your story?
Those who are too smart to engage in politics are punished by being governed by those who are dumber. ~Plato
It couldn't be done, but the darn fool didn't know it, and did it anyway.
We all got problems. Ksharp
I like vintage bikes because they take me away from the clutter of technology that I work with everyday and back to a simpler time of mechanical elegance and simplicity.. "ninadm"
Darkwing Duck: The worst part of public transportation is the Public.
"That is awesome shit there" Re-Run
"Fear nothing, attack everything" Eric Berry
" Oh, you read that on the internet? Clearly it IS a massive problem. Of course it CAN’t be normal operation."

1976 CB 750-A X 2
1977 CB 750-A X 4
1977 CB 750-K
1976 CB 750 F
1981 CB 750
1966 Kawasaki SG 250
1981 KZ 750 LTD
1973 CB 350
1979 CM 185 Twinstar
1982 Honda XL 80
South of Eden (Kansas City MO)
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Changing air assisted fork seals on DOHC??

slownugly007
Ok cool Ill check that out! Thanks...and I was wondering the same thing about the nuts? Does the air assist really make that big of a difference or is it just a dampener/equilizer and can it ride "safely" without it?
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Changing air assisted fork seals on DOHC??

sgtslag
In reply to this post by slownugly007
I would recommend Progressive Fork Springs and 412 Rear Shock Absorber replacement.  They're a bit of cash, but you can ignore the air assist (you will not need it), and they will improve the suspension performance, and safety, exponentially.  They need to be done as a set, front and rear, as doing one, will make the lack of performance in the other, blatantly obvious, which means that the ride may be a bit scary, at times.

Essentially, you get progressively wound springs, which behave as two different springs.  This results in a ride which is amazingly smooth, comfortable, and much safer.  Your bike will ride as if it is modern, instead of 25+ years old. The wheels will track the road more accurately, which means more safely, with drastically improved traction on rough roads.  Be sure to get the standard rate springs, on the rear suspension, unless you ride two-up, 90+ % of the time -- the heavy-duty springs are superb for two-up, with full saddlebags, trunk, and tank bag...  I went with the heavy-duty springs, and they are too stiff for one person, but perfect (on the lowest setting), for two-up.  Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII