Front brake question.

[Muscle racer]

My front brake started squeaking, so I bought the replacement pads. I took out the old ones, but I can't push the piston back in to place the new pads. I'm sure this is easy, but I've been building this bike for awhile and never messed with the brakes. What's the next step. If I pull the lever, the piston comes out but I can't get it back in. Pls help, so I can ride ASAP.

 Thanks for the help.

 Rudy

[Piute]

  Use A large "C" clamp ,put some masking tape on ends of clamp will prevent cratches,use the screw part to go inside piston. May / will need to take a lil fluid out or will over flow onto paint and such(wipe off right away).
 .........Remember you only need a small amount of more room,don't leave your fliud uncovered(gets moisture from air)........Piute N Judose........

[Daddyman]

[Muscle racer]

Ok. I got the c clamp and it went back in just fine. When I put everything back together, it felt like the brake pads were sticking and there's no resistance with the brake lever.  When Changing the pads, I unplugged the bleeder niple and let it drip until it stopped. The brake reservoir on the handle wasn't completely empty. Is there something I didn't do? Should I bleed the system until the reservoir is completely empty, then fill it up?

Help me please.

[TOOLS1]

You are going to have to bleed the system. The best way to do this is with a squirt/pump style oil can. Fill the oil can with break fluid. Get a small piece of rubber hose 3/16 X 12 inches long works good. Slip one end of the hose over the line on the oil can, and the other over the bleeder. You might need to wrap a piece of wire around the hose, and twist it to clamp it on. Then loosen the bleeder, and pump the fluid up to the master cylinder. when the master cylinder is full. Tighten the bleeder. Done.
TOOLS

[samir_nayanajaad]

I never would have though of doing it that way! Sounds way faster than doing it like a cars breaks, fill MC pump break, fill MC, pump, fill, gahh annoying when you have to do it like that to get one air bubble out of the system.

[TOOLS1]

And don't forget. Air does not like to go down.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

Awesome idea Tools. You win the award!

[TOOLS1]

Well, send me a prize.
TOOLS

[shinyribs]

Check's in the mail...

[TOOLS1]

Good. That tip ought to be worth a nickle
TOOLS

[Muscle racer]

Thanks tools.
 Do I do anything with the brake lever? I read on this site to pull the lever back and tie it down so no air goes in the line. So by pushing the fluid up it will keep the pads from sticking? I rode to the gas station, and it felt like it was sticking less. Will it loosen up if I keep riding?

[Peterwh]

Echoing what others have said, awesome idea.  I, like most others, it seems, do it the other way.  Getting back to the question, I think you need to take the calliper apart completely and check the piston and what's in the brake cylinder.  I had the same issues with my 78k when I first got it.  The cylinder was full of goo and there's a bit of a pit on the piston.  Got it back together, though the piston required some "persuasion" and it releases fine now.

[TOOLS1]

You should not have to do anything with the lever. If your breaks are sticking, like Peter say's. You might need to rebuild the master cylinder. It's easy. Just get a set of the special snap-ring pliers that are made, for doing it. I got mine from vintagecb750.com they were around $10.00.
Here is a link to a good video on rebuilding the master cylinder. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2W24asyNujs
TOOLS

[Peterwh]

Tools is correct (though it doesn't really matter what the question is), but, just for clarity, I meant the slave cylinder. Not the master.