How to use SeaFoam

[nyraised]

SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT for
Diesel Applications
Excellence in Performance
Cleans injectors
Adds lubricity
Anti-gel
Cleans crankcase
Restores power
Removes moisture
Cleans carbon
Stabilizes fuel
Diesel fuel conditioner
Small Engine Applications
Works and Performs Instantly
Stabilizes fuel
Cleans carburetor
Cleans carbon
Removes moisture
Assures fast starts
Frees sticky rings
Restores power
Upper cylinder lube
Smooths rough idle


How to Use SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT
In Tune-Up of Diesel Engines

Fill primary fuel filter with SEA FOAM. Be sure filter is fully primed to prevent air locks. This will clean injectors quickly.
Use 1 pint of SEA FOAM to every 25 gallons of diesel fuel to add lubricity, clean fuel lines, injector pump and remove moisture.
Use 1 pint of SEA FOAM to every 4 gallons of oil to clean rings and other engine parts internally. For best results, use SEA FOAM for 1 hour before oil change. Results in cleaner engines and longer oil change intervals.

When Added to Diesel Fuel Tank

Cleans fuel injectors
De-ices and removes moisture
Cleans carbons as you drive
Diesel fuel conditioner and anti-gel
Lubricates upper cylinders
Stabilizes fuel
Adds lubricity
One pint treats 25 gallons of fuel.


For Anti-Gel and De-Icer

Use 1 pint in fuel tank to 25 gallons of diesel fuel to dry moisture and prevent gelling.
Sea Foam will degel gelled fuel. Start with one pint to 25 gallons of gelled fuel. More will be needed in extreme cold weather.
If filters are gelled, change them and fill them with SEA FOAM.

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How to Use SEA FOAM
In Tune-Up of Small 4 Cycle Carbureted Engine Lawn Mowers, Tillers, Edgers, Snowblowers, etc.

Start engine. If engine will not start, check spark and compression. If engine has spark and compression, pour a small amount up to 1/2 ounce into the carburetor throat. SEA FOAM will act as starting fulid and will start the engine unless there is a mechanical or electrical problem. With engine warm, keep on high idle and slowly pour one ounce through carburetor throat. Make sure exhaust is well ventilated when using in the carburetor as fumes will be extreme for a short time.
Pour 1/2 ounce to one ounce into small fuel tank and oil crackcase.
Immediate Results: Same as for large 4 cycle Autos, Trucks, Tractors, etc.
NOTE: One pint treats 8-25 gallons of gas (average one ounce per gallon) or 6-12 gallons of gas oil mix (average 2 ounces per gallon.) Does not replace oil. Use frequently.

For Small 2-Cycle Engines
Use procedure 1 of tune-up of small 4 cycle carbureted engines.
Pour 1/2 to 1 ounce into small fuel tank.
See label on can for exact detailed results for use in each area Fuel Tank-Carburetor.
NOTE: SEA FOAM does not replace 2 cycle oil.

For Engine Storage
For storage, the engine should be thoroughly saturated internally with Sea Foam. Sea Foam can be injected internally through the spark plug holes or through the carburetor with ignition off.

For Fuel Stabilization
Use 1 pint to 25 gallons or (average of 1 ounce per gallon) to stabilize and condition fuels. One pint stabilizes 25 gallons of regular, unleaded and diesel fuels.
Use 1 pint to stabilize 6-12 gallons of 2 cycle (gas-oil mix) fuels (average 2 ounce per gallon).

Common Reasons Service Technicians Use SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT

When your vehicle has a rough idle, hesitates, stalls, pings or has an after run problem – this is often due to carbon buildup.

Your service technician can offer a reasonably priced fuel systems cleaning with the use of SEA FOAM products to solve these carbon problems.

When your vehicle’s fuel injectors need cleaning – this is often due to residue left on injectors from poor burning fuels and contaminants.

Your service technician can offer an inline fuel injection cleaning with the use of an injector cleaning machine and SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT. SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT is also added to the fuel to disperse moisture, clean fuel lines and injectors while driving.

When moisture needs to be removed from fuels or an anti gel or de-icer is needed – these conditions are due to condensation in the fuel tank and extreme cold weather creating gas line freeze or diesel fuel gelling.

Your service technician can recommend the use of SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT in the fuel tanks to dry moisture and cure these problems.

When there is moisture detected in the oil – this problem is due mostly to poor ventilation and condensation. Sometimes, however, there is a bad head gasket, cracked head or block that must be replaced.

Your service technician will diagnose the problem and recommend the repairs. As part of the diagnostics, a SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT can be used in the oil crankcase to cure the moisture problems. A SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT can also be used in the oil crankcase after repairs to make sure moisture is eliminated.

When valve lifter noise is apparent or piston rings seem to be sticking – this is often due to dirty and gummed up oil passages, varnished lifters and buildup of gum, varnish and carbon in the piston ring areas.

Your service technician can offer a SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT that will clean sticky lifters and free sticky rings. By doing this treatment you will be able to determine if there is a varnish problem or a mechanical problem.

To help pass emissions tests – high emission numbers are usually caused by extreme carbon build up, dirty emission control items such as: pcv valve, egr valve, oxygen sensors or bad spark plugs and wires.

Your service technician can provide a pre-emission test service that includes SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT as a cleaning agent to help pass emissions tests.

When fuel stabilization and engine fogging is needed – fuels of today become stale in less than thirty days. Therefore, stabilization and engine fogging are needed when vehicles, lawnmowers, snow blowers, outboard motors, chainsaws, motorcycles, gas in cans and engines are put into storage.

Your service technician can provide fuel stabilization and engine fogging services with SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT.

[sgtslag]

I've been using Sea Foam for the past four years.  I live in Minnesota, so my bikes get moth-balled for 3+ months, on average.  I put Sea Foam in the tank, top off the tank as high as possible to eliminate air space where condensation/rust can occur, then I run the engines for 2-4 minutes, to get it into the floats, and the engine.  After that, I connect a Battery Tender Jr. to their battery, shut them off, and cover them for their long sleep.

In the Spring, I prime the fuel system, apply the choke, and fire them up.  I try to run the Winter's gasoline out as quickly as possible, just to get rid of the Sea Foam mix, as it cuts down the mileage a bit, and it gets the system scrubbed out, just in case there were any varnish formations that happened to form.  Never have I had any problems thus far, with two bikes, and now three, this year.

I've used it in the crankcase on all three of my bikes, to scrub the engines free of oil deposits:  prior to adding it, my oil was caramel colored; after running them with the Sea Foam in the oil, the oil turns black very quickly.  [NOTE:  I've repeated the process on the same bike, and the second time I ran it through the engine, the oil did not turn color, at all -- there were no new deposits for it to scrub off!]  I did this four years, and 12,000 miles ago, on my 1979 CB750K...  Still runs like new.  Had the same results on my 1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD, and I just treated my newest bike with it, prior to filling it with Rotella T6 Synthetic oil, a 1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII.  With the high detergent levels of diesel oils, I won't need to worry about oil deposits again (I will be running the T6 in all three, next Spring; two have Rotella T dino oil in them for now, which still has very high levels of detergents, much more than automotive oils).  I recommend using Sea Foam in the crankcase once every five years if you use automotive oils, or just once, if you use diesel oils, to ensure your engine is free of deposits.  If your engine is properly maintained, you should see that the second application of Sea Foam won't darken your oil at all.

Had a riding friend who had poor performance in two of his bikes:  he ran Sea Foam through the gas tank, and both bikes smoothed out like butter on hot toast!  He called it, "A miracle in a can!"  This stuff is great.  It won't cure all that ails a bike, but it will help remove varnish in the fuel system, as well as oil sludge in your engines, if it is properly used.  Cheers!

[Cabreco]

How long do you run the SEAFOAM in the crankcase? Until the next oil change or for a specific time frame?

[Re-run]

For a few minutes just to remove the crap. I have reservations about doing it though as I am unsure of the effects on the clutch plates. If I were going to replace the clutch plates, then I might but you also have to be careful that a chunk of sludge does not plug the passages in the head and burn cam bearings and such.

For me, I would run a good diesel oil(rotella synthetic) and the detergents there would clean things pretty well, then maybe run the seafoam. I have no issue doing in the gas though.

I am sure some have done it though so maybe more info will be forthcoming.

[Cabreco]

In speaking to the PO Fiona has been on Rotella T-15 for a few years now. I also have continued the Rotella. I did not go Synthetic though as I'm concerned that weeps in the gaskets  may start.
My oil has come out clean the last 2 oil/filter changes. The clutch plates were another concern I had.
I would hate to screw her up now that I've got her running GREAT!
I've got my hands full right now with the Venture Royale.

[Re-run]

If everything is good, I wouldn't worry about it then. Periodic use in fuel to keep carbs clean is good enough I think.

[shinyribs]

"The Venture Royale"...that just sounds....regal!

[sgtslag]

"How long" to run SeaFoam in the crankcase, is a bit hard to understand from the instructions -- it is just too simple.  

SeaFoam will dissolve the varnish, turning it into liquid; it supposedly will also work on dissolving carbon deposits -- it is critical that you change the filter, along with the oil, when the oil darkens.  When the crud has been dislodged/dissolved, it will be caught by the filter, and suspended, in liquid form, within the oil.  That is when you need to change the oil, and filter, to flush out the crud.

I added it to the crankcase on my '79, ran it, on the centerstand, for five minutes (shifted through all five gears, idling, to ensure a thorough flushing of the transmission).  I have an oil temperature gauge, so I watched it warm up to 180 F, which is when the oil begins to work properly, suspending crud.  Then I shut it down, and pulled the dip stick:  the oil had been a medium caramel color, before I added the SeaFoam, but within five minutes' time, it had turned coal black.  I changed out the oil, and filter, and I ran it for 5,000 miles, or more, over a two-year period.  Then I decided to do it again, thinking the shorter trips, and time, might have led to more sludge.  I repeated the process:  no color change.  I rode it for 300 miles, checking the oil's color frequently:  no change.  Being paranoid, I changed out the oil and filter, to be safe.

I had the clutch redbuilt, prior to using SeaFoam, the first time.  It has not been affected by the oil treatment, at all.  There have been no ill effects since treating my 79's engine, twice.  It runs great, the Shell T6 synthetic diesel oil runs great, no seepage anywhere.

SeaFoam has been around since the 1950's, or earlier.  It has proven to be safe, for me, personally.  I have added it to the crankcase on all of my engines:  three motorcycles, a truck, and two cars.  I followed directions, and each time, it turned the oil black, the first time it was added, but after that, the engine oil would never darken -- no sludge to dissolve after the first treatment.

I used SeaFoam in my '93 Voyager, when I first got it.  We have since put over 3,500 miles on that bike, using the Shell T6 oil (no idea what I drained from the engine, but the T6 is all I use now, in all of my vehicles).  There have not been any issues related to oil, on either of my two, current bikes, or my four-wheeled vehicles.

I understand people's wariness about adding snake-oil to their engines.  SeaFoam, however, is not snake-oil.  It is not a miracle, but it delivers as promised:  dissolving sludge within the engine and fuel system; preserves gasoline; absorbs water; is safe to use, as directed by the FDA (no, not really...  ).  Cheers!

[Re-run]

Nice to know someone had success adding it to oil. I might think about doing it but my engine needs gaskets so it will get scrubbed down then.

[MarkPBG]

I sold this for years, it's a general purpose high quality detergent and lube, and I can't recommend it highly enough. It does an amazing job on engines. One of the few chemical "fixes" we sold that I actually believed in.