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Here we go!! After discovering the huge crack in the engine, and advice from the forum Ive decided to pull the engine and give it a little tlc.  Some how after a few drinks I go from this.
 to this
 Looks like well be doing a complete frame off. I figured after 40yrs it may do the bike some good to get some new paint. updated parts if Im gonna update the engine.
 I even got the little princess envolved on the tear down.
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Administrator
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Now that's a start.  TOOLS
Life is not about the number of breaths, you take, but the moments that take your breath away.
I don't have an anger problem. I have an idiot problem. Hank Hill
Never confuse education for intelligence.
Happiness is a belt fed weapon.
I just can't imagine what could go wrong.
No fire? No explosions? So whats the point of your story?
Those who are too smart to engage in politics are punished by being governed by those who are dumber. ~Plato
It couldn't be done, but the darn fool didn't know it, and did it anyway.
We all got problems. Ksharp
I like vintage bikes because they take me away from the clutter of technology that I work with everyday and back to a simpler time of mechanical elegance and simplicity.. "ninadm"
Darkwing Duck: The worst part of public transportation is the Public.
"That is awesome shit there" Re-Run
"Fear nothing, attack everything" Eric Berry
" Oh, you read that on the internet? Clearly it IS a massive problem. Of course it CAN’t be normal operation."
1976 CB 750-A X 2
1977 CB 750-A X 4
1977 CB 750-K
1976 CB 750 F
1981 CB 750
1966 Kawasaki SG 250
1981 KZ 750 LTD
1973 CB 350
1979 CM 185 Twinstar
1982 Honda XL 80
South of Eden (Kansas City MO)
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Your not gonna like it, but what I see is the chain got too loose & hit the case hard. Usually the chain breaks & punches a hole in the case. I STRONGLY recomend taking engine apart so upper case can be tig weld back together. I don't kow if you realize it but, there is a mating surface involved in this repair. With the cases apart the broken part can be held in proper place & an oil tight weld made. Its tougher to fix when the peices are gone.
PHILLIP Chop what ya got! G.O.T.F.
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So is it tougher to fix when it's apart or raiser?
On Nov 29, 2012, at 8:20 PM, "pwbcktftii [via Honda CB750'S]" < [hidden email]> wrote:
Your not gonna like it, but what I see is the chain got too loose & hit the case hard. Usually the chain breaks & punches a hole in the case. I STRONGLY recomend taking engine apart so upper case can be tig weld back together. I don't kow if you realize it but, there is a mating surface involved in this repair. With the cases apart the broken part can be held in proper place & an oil tight weld made. Its tougher to fix when the peices are gone.
PHILLIP
To unsubscribe from I just wanted a new transmission..., click here.
NAML
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Sorry for the confusion. I was refering to the common way this failure happens to this bike. A neglected chain snaps & punches a 3" hole in the cases in front of front sprocket. Usually when this happens the case pieces go flying never to be seen again. In yous case you have all the case pieces. With the cases split the top case can be set on a true flat surface. Then tig the loose piece back in proper place. This will give you a permenant no problem repair. If the mating surface is not matching then you will constanly leak oil from the repair spot. Which is not visible when the bike is assembled. Top end will fail real fast if the engine gets low on oil. If you are able to dis-assemble engine it should be less than $50.00 to fix + a gasket set. As an aside if your bike has the auto oiler I would shut it off & use spray chain lube.
PHILLIP Chop what ya got! G.O.T.F.
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Yeah looks like the chain got loose and banged up the swing arm also. I found an engine case- top and bottom on eBay 110 bucks free shipping it should be here by next week. Hope to use the new top part.
On Nov 30, 2012, at 6:56 PM, "pwbcktftii [via Honda CB750'S]" < [hidden email]> wrote:
Sorry for the confusion. I was refering to the common way this failure happens to this bike. A neglected chain snaps & punches a 3" hole in the cases in front of front sprocket. Usually when this happens the case pieces go flying never to be seen again. In yous case you have all the case pieces. With the cases split the top case can be set on a true flat surface. Then tig the loose piece back in proper place. This will give you a permenant no problem repair. If the mating surface is not matching then you will constanly leak oil from the repair spot. Which is not visible when the bike is assembled. Top end will fail real fast if the engine gets low on oil. If you are able to dis-assemble engine it should be less than $50.00 to fix + a gasket set. As an aside if your bike has the auto oiler I would shut it off & use spray chain lube.
PHILLIP
To unsubscribe from I just wanted a new transmission..., click here.
NAML
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Explain why you would shut off the auto oiler? I'v never had an issue with using it and makes my chains and sprockets last a long time. Just wondering ...
American by birth. Cowboy by choice!
Vero Beach, FL
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo172/grandpaslinger/HD%20Road%20Glide/IMAG0046.jpg
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Administrator
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Nice shoes bro... 
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lol princess loves her ruby red slippers (Halloween Costume she didn't ger to use because of the Franken Storm) Looks like a good color for the frame. I was gonna go powder coated black but I may have to make an exception.
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Certainly, Conventional engine oil is not made to deal withe the extreme pressures developed by MC drive chains unless in an oil bath. So what happens is the motor oil flys off the chain & does no good to lube the chain. Especially at highway speeds. I personally use PJ1 chain lube & here's why. PJ1 has a catalyst in it that evaperates in 15 minutes, when it sprays out it's like WD40 & soaks in everywhere. It leaves a film of lubrication that has the consistancy of tar. It does not come off while the chain is moving. I have used it since the 80s myself. FYI my 630 o-ring chain on my '76' CB750K6 (78 engine) has lasted over 10 years. It is recomended to lube the chain when hot & every 200 miles (2 full tanks of gas). This is so the pores in the metal will be open for the lube. Also be aware that PJ1 is available in an o-ring formula (blue can) & a regular chain formula (black can). There are other brands that do the same catalyst thing. I have tried a product called chain wax. It's not as sticky as PJ1 & comes out as a foam. Just a note I have had over 24 CB750s, with 18 left. I have 2 tourers, 3 choppers, 1 cafe, 1 I made into a dual purpose bike (on road - off road), 2 SS, 1 A & the rest stock Ks. I do all my own work except bore cylinders (don't have the tool). I just finished a ground up rebuild of a '76' SS for a buddy of mine. I welcome any other questions you may have.
PHILLIP Chop what ya got! G.O.T.F.
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Wow thanks for the info ill def pick some of it up. That's a lot if bikes. Quick question- I'm working on the top end. I can't get the mounting bolts off. Any suggestions? I managed to get 4 of the 16 bolts off the rest will not budge. On Dec 1, 2012, at 7:35 PM, "pwbcktftii [via Honda CB750'S]" < [hidden email]> wrote:
Certainly, Conventional engine oil is not made to deal withe the extreme pressures developed by MC drive chains unless in an oil bath. So what happens is the motor oil flys off the chain & does no good to lube the chain. Especially at highway speeds. I personally use PJ1 chain lube & here's why. PJ1 has a catalyst in it that evaperates in 15 minutes, when it sprays out it's like WD40 & soaks in everywhere. It leaves a film of lubrication that has the consistancy of tar. It does not come off while the chain is moving. I have used it since the 80s myself. FYI my 630 o-ring chain on my '76' CB750K6 (78 engine) has lasted over 10 years. It is recomended to lube the chain when hot & every 200 miles (2 full tanks of gas). This is so the pores in the metal will be open for the lube. Also be aware that PJ1 is available in an o-ring formula (blue can) & a regular chain formula (black can). There are other brands that do the same catalyst thing. I have tried a product called chain wax. It's not as sticky as PJ1 & comes out as a foam. Just a note I have had over 24 CB750s, with 18 left. I have 2 tourers, 3 choppers, 1 cafe, 1 I made into a dual purpose bike (on road - off road), 2 SS, 1 A & the rest stock Ks. I do all my own work except bore cylinders (don't have the tool). I just finished a ground up rebuild of a '76' SS for a buddy of mine. I welcome any other questions you may have.
PHILLIP
To unsubscribe from I just wanted a new transmission..., click here.
NAML
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Administrator
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I hate to hijack,but we need pics of the choppers and the dual sport bike!
Ok....I need pics. But I bet everyone else will get behind me on this one
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I am assuming you are refering to the cylinder studs. You didn't say how you got the 4 out. So, here goes. First try to unscrew the by the 2 nut method. Take 2 of the head nuts & make sure there clean. put a 12mm 6 point box end wrench on the stud (need for later). Install the first nut on a stud upside down. then install a second nut on regularly. Now take a second 12mm 6 pt. wrench & tighten the 2 nuts against each other as tight as you can. Now with the wrench that has the stud through it, try to unscrew the stud. Studs will flex some as you break them free. If it fells like there going to snap off, STOP. I realize this is a judgement call, but don't break the stud. Instead apply some heat to the aluminium around the stud bottom. A propane torch usually works. If not go to mapp gas or acetylene torch. Due to the hour glass shape of the cylinder studs I have not found a stud remover that will work here. Also I can't recommend vise grips, they will work but, you get deep bite marks in the stud. Then the stud will strech when torqued. Now that I said all this, I am assuming "again" that you have stock studs. I mention because, if you have any thoughts of going to an 836cc kit (or bigger). Then, now would be a great time to upgrade to the heavy duty studs that are 8mm thick top to bottom. Lastly use the 2 nut method to re-install the studs.
About a previous post - The engine cases are bolted together and machined as a set. I would take care when mixing tops & bottoms & years. Check crankcase breather spigot (2 sizes out there). There are differences in the counter shaft sprocket area (530 - 630 chain, rubber chain guide on older engines, different counter shaft covers). Also different clutch cover in '69', '70', '77' & '78' from middle years.
To all others I will take some pics & post when I can. My favorite chopper is apart right now for a new paint job. I am having the frame powder coated. FYI it's Jammer (Amen style frame) '78' SS engine, 836cc, Long twisted springer front end, king & queen seat, forward controls, tall sissy bar, Invader mag wheels & lots of chrome!
PHILLIP Chop what ya got! G.O.T.F.
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Yeah was thinking about going up to the 849cc. On the engine I was thinking of using the new bottom and top casing, and the internals from the old one. getting the cylinders bored out, some work on the top end, new tranny and pistons. Did I miss anything I should update while I'm already in there? Here's some picks of what I got off today.
 On Dec 2, 2012, at 11:08 AM, "pwbcktftii [via Honda CB750'S]" < [hidden email]> wrote:
I am assuming you are refering to the cylinder studs. You didn't say how you got the 4 out. So, here goes. First try to unscrew the by the 2 nut method. Take 2 of the head nuts & make sure there clean. put a 12mm 6 point box end wrench on the stud (need for later). Install the first nut on a stud upside down. then install a second nut on regularly. Now take a second 12mm 6 pt. wrench & tighten the 2 nuts against each other as tight as you can. Now with the wrench that has the stud through it, try to unscrew the stud. Studs will flex some as you break them free. If it fells like there going to snap off, STOP. I realize this is a judgement call, but don't break the stud. Instead apply some heat to the aluminium around the stud bottom. A propane torch usually works. If not go to mapp gas or acetylene torch. Due to the hour glass shape of the cylinder studs I have not found a stud remover that will work here. Also I can't recommend vise grips, they will work but, you get deep bite marks in the stud. Then the stud will strech when torqued. Now that I said all this, I am assuming "again" that you have stock studs. I mention because, if you have any thoughts of going to an 836cc kit (or bigger). Then, now would be a great time to upgrade to the heavy duty studs that are 8mm thick top to bottom. Lastly use the 2 nut method to re-install the studs.
About a previous post - The engine cases are bolted together and machined as a set. I would take care when mixing tops & bottoms & years. Check crankcase breather spigot (2 sizes out there). There are differences in the counter shaft sprocket area (530 - 630 chain, rubber chain guide on older engines, different counter shaft covers). Also different clutch cover in '69', '70', '77' & '78' from middle years.
To all others I will take some pics & post when I can. My favorite chopper is apart right now for a new paint job. I am having the frame powder coated. FYI it's Jammer (Amen style frame) '78' SS engine, 836cc, Long twisted springer front end, king & queen seat, forward controls, tall sissy bar, Invader mag wheels & lots of chrome!
PHILLIP Chop what ya got! G.O.T.F.
To unsubscribe from I just wanted a new transmission..., click here.
NAML
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Just for piece of mind replace all seals in engine. Check clutch pad wear (you will need the 4 prong socket for this). Inspect cam, rockers & carriers (carriers are matched & stamped, do not mix up). Clean sump screen. May want to go with new oil pump if you punch it out. Unless you know the p.s.i. the pump developed when hot, from before tear down. There are a number of big bore kit companies out there. Do some research before you buy. Inspect stator wires for over heating. I strongly recommend using a torque wrench on all bolts in the engine. The only ones that seem to be a problem is the 6mm bolts in the cyl head. They may strip out when torqued. If they do, remove head & repair with a 6mm x 1.00 Heli Coil thread repair kit ($35.00). Also you could just go ahead & do it first. Measure the depth of the hole & use a long enough Heli Coil for the job. Read instructions carefully if you've never used one before. There are some hot cams available too. Might want to think about electronic ignition also. OK my last bit of advise, I know I will get some arguments about this, but, here goes - I use NGK D6EA spark plugs. Remember my 630 chain? My plugs are 10 years old also. Now here's my logic - The CURRENT books list the NGK D8EA plug for this application. Some where in the past the charts got changed. Originally they said NGK D7EA which is what they came with. D8EAs will foul out constantly & need to be replaced. D7EAs will be fine if you only drive your bike on hot summer days. Since I use mine 12 months out of the year, I find easier starts & faster warm up with the D6EAs. If you are going to drag race then D8EA is the way to go. Keep in mind that with this brand plug, the lower the # the hotter the plug. If you want to try these any Kawasaki dealer should have them in stock. Otherwise they need to be special ordered. FYI, I prefer to use oil coolers on all my bikes. I just feel it's hard to argue with success. hope this helps.
-----Original Message-----
From: blk72750 [via Honda CB750'S] < [hidden email]>
To: pwbcktftii < [hidden email]>
Sent: Mon, Dec 3, 2012 6:39 pm
Subject: Re: I just wanted a new transmission...
Yeah was thinking about going up to the 849cc. On the engine I was thinking of using the new bottom and top casing, and the internals from the old one. getting the cylinders bored out, some work on the top end, new tranny and pistons. Did I miss anything I should update while I'm already in there? Here's some picks of what I got off today.
On Dec 2, 2012, at 11:08 AM, "pwbcktftii [via Honda CB750'S]" < [hidden email]> wrote:
I am assuming you are refering to the cylinder studs. You didn't say how you got the 4 out. So, here goes. First try to unscrew the by the 2 nut method. Take 2 of the head nuts & make sure there clean. put a 12mm 6 point box end wrench on the stud (need for later). Install the first nut on a stud upside down. then install a second nut on regularly. Now take a second 12mm 6 pt. wrench & tighten the 2 nuts against each other as tight as you can. Now with the wrench that has the stud through it, try to unscrew the stud. Studs will flex some as you break them free. If it fells like there going to snap off, STOP. I realize this is a judgement call, but don't break the stud. Instead apply some heat to the aluminium around the stud bottom. A propane torch usually works. If not go to mapp gas or acetylene torch. Due to the hour glass shape of the cylinder studs I have not found a stud remover that will work here. Also I can't recommend vise grips, they will work but, you get deep bite marks in the stud. Then the stud will strech when torqued. Now that I said all this, I am assuming "again" that you have stock studs. I mention because, if you have any thoughts of going to an 836cc kit (or bigger). Then, now would be a great time to upgrade to the heavy duty studs that are 8mm thick top to bottom. Lastly use the 2 nut method to re-install the studs.
About a previous post - The engine cases are bolted together and machined as a set. I would take care when mixing tops & bottoms & years. Check crankcase breather spigot (2 sizes out there). There are differences in the counter shaft sprocket area (530 - 630 chain, rubber chain guide on older engines, different counter shaft covers). Also different clutch cover in '69', '70', '77' & '78' from middle years.
To all others I will take some pics & post when I can. My favorite chopper is apart right now for a new paint job. I am having the frame powder coated. FYI it's Jammer (Amen style frame) '78' SS engine, 836cc, Long twisted springer front end, king & queen seat, forward controls, tall sissy bar, Invader mag wheels & lots of chrome!
PHILLIP Chop what ya got! G.O.T.F.
To unsubscribe from I just wanted a new transmission..., click here.
NAML
To unsubscribe from I just wanted a new transmission..., click here.
NAML
PHILLIP Chop what ya got! G.O.T.F.
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Gotta on the seals, and clutch I checked oil pump before I took the engine out it looked good no gunk on screen or the oil pan. I've been looking at cycle exchange for the 849 kit they have so much stuff on their site just trying to make heads or tails if it all. I was thinking about the electronic ignition but most of my budget is Hobbs be blown on the other engine upgrades. What's a good one to look for?
On Dec 3, 2012, at 7:28 PM, "pwbcktftii [via Honda CB750'S]" < [hidden email]> wrote:
Just for piece of mind replace all seals in engine. Check clutch pad wear (you will need the 4 prong socket for this). Inspect cam, rockers & carriers (carriers are matched & stamped, do not mix up). Clean sump screen. May want to go with new oil pump if you punch it out. Unless you know the p.s.i. the pump developed when hot, from before tear down. There are a number of big bore kit companies out there. Do some research before you buy. Inspect stator wires for over heating. I strongly recommend using a torque wrench on all bolts in the engine. The only ones that seem to be a problem is the 6mm bolts in the cyl head. They may strip out when torqued. If they do, remove head & repair with a 6mm x 1.00 Heli Coil thread repair kit ($35.00). Also you could just go ahead & do it first. Measure the depth of the hole & use a long enough Heli Coil for the job. Read instructions carefully if you've never used one before. There are some hot cams available too. Might want to think about electronic ignition also. OK my last bit of advise, I know I will get some arguments about this, but, here goes - I use NGK D6EA spark plugs. Remember my 630 chain? My plugs are 10 years old also. Now here's my logic - The CURRENT books list the NGK D8EA plug for this application. Some where in the past the charts got changed. Originally they said NGK D7EA which is what they came with. D8EAs will foul out constantly & need to be replaced. D7EAs will be fine if you only drive your bike on hot summer days. Since I use mine 12 months out of the year, I find easier starts & faster warm up with the D6EAs. If you are going to drag race then D8EA is the way to go. Keep in mind that with this brand plug, the lower the # the hotter the plug. If you want to try these any Kawasaki dealer should have them in stock. Otherwise they need to be special ordered. FYI, I prefer to use oil coolers on all my bikes. I just feel it's hard to argue with success. hope this helps.
-----Original Message-----
From: blk72750 [via Honda CB750'S] < [hidden email]>
To: pwbcktftii < [hidden email]>
Sent: Mon, Dec 3, 2012 6:39 pm
Subject: Re: I just wanted a new transmission...
Yeah was thinking about going up to the 849cc. On the engine I was thinking of using the new bottom and top casing, and the internals from the old one. getting the cylinders bored out, some work on the top end, new tranny and pistons. Did I miss anything I should update while I'm already in there? Here's some picks of what I got off today.
On Dec 2, 2012, at 11:08 AM, "pwbcktftii [via Honda CB750'S]" < [hidden email]> wrote:
I am assuming you are refering to the cylinder studs. You didn't say how you got the 4 out. So, here goes. First try to unscrew the by the 2 nut method. Take 2 of the head nuts & make sure there clean. put a 12mm 6 point box end wrench on the stud (need for later). Install the first nut on a stud upside down. then install a second nut on regularly. Now take a second 12mm 6 pt. wrench & tighten the 2 nuts against each other as tight as you can. Now with the wrench that has the stud through it, try to unscrew the stud. Studs will flex some as you break them free. If it fells like there going to snap off, STOP. I realize this is a judgement call, but don't break the stud. Instead apply some heat to the aluminium around the stud bottom. A propane torch usually works. If not go to mapp gas or acetylene torch. Due to the hour glass shape of the cylinder studs I have not found a stud remover that will work here. Also I can't recommend vise grips, they will work but, you get deep bite marks in the stud. Then the stud will strech when torqued. Now that I said all this, I am assuming "again" that you have stock studs. I mention because, if you have any thoughts of going to an 836cc kit (or bigger). Then, now would be a great time to upgrade to the heavy duty studs that are 8mm thick top to bottom. Lastly use the 2 nut method to re-install the studs.
About a previous post - The engine cases are bolted together and machined as a set. I would take care when mixing tops & bottoms & years. Check crankcase breather spigot (2 sizes out there). There are differences in the counter shaft sprocket area (530 - 630 chain, rubber chain guide on older engines, different counter shaft covers). Also different clutch cover in '69', '70', '77' & '78' from middle years.
To all others I will take some pics & post when I can. My favorite chopper is apart right now for a new paint job. I am having the frame powder coated. FYI it's Jammer (Amen style frame) '78' SS engine, 836cc, Long twisted springer front end, king & queen seat, forward controls, tall sissy bar, Invader mag wheels & lots of chrome!
PHILLIP Chop what ya got! G.O.T.F.
To unsubscribe from I just wanted a new transmission..., click here.
NAML
To unsubscribe from I just wanted a new transmission..., click here.
NAML
PHILLIP Chop what ya got! G.O.T.F.
To unsubscribe from I just wanted a new transmission..., click here.
NAML
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DYNA is still available new. I have some point eliminators in my bikes but, I don't know if you can get them new any more. I have 1 DYNA system I just got this summer. I haven't used it yet to give an opinion. FYI, DYNA is a true electronic ignition. It has a solid state box that should go around the frame tube under the fuel tank. I'm not sure of the brand of the point eliminator I have one in one of my 836 engines. It has the blue & yellow wires for the coils & 1 red wire for 12v feed to energize the pickups. I had to drill a second access hole in the bottom case for this wire with it's own rubber grommet & heat shield. It's patched into the hot wire for rear brake switch & it's been working real well. FYI, make sure you replace the seal in the rocker cover for the tach cable. Most common place to leak oil. Needed if you use tach or a plug. Some guys don't run the tach. Most choppers that's all you've got with springer or girder front ends. On most of these bikes 4000 r.p.m. in high gear is +/- 60 m.p.h. I' ld do the pistons & cam first if $ is an issue. You can change ignition any time & when engine is in bike. Make sure you get the matched head gasket when you punch it out, not the stock one. Kit may or may not come with it. Wiesco kits do come with all parts needed (pistons, pins, clips, rings, studs & gasket). Lots of choices in pistons though, High dome - high compression, std compression - higher displacement or both. I have been told this engine can be punched out to 1100cc. I don't think I want to go any more than 900cc. You'll need machine work done to cases, lightened flywheel, crankshaft, new rods, new valves & springs, new cam, machine work to rocker cover, give up elec start, lighter or 6 speed tranny & double chain or equivalent. I think this is too much modification for a street bike, drag strip OK.
-----Original Message-----
From: blk72750 [via Honda CB750'S] < [hidden email]>
To: pwbcktftii < [hidden email]>
Sent: Mon, Dec 3, 2012 9:02 pm
Subject: Re: I just wanted a new transmission...
Gotta on the seals, and clutch I checked oil pump before I took the engine out it looked good no gunk on screen or the oil pan. I've been looking at cycle exchange for the 849 kit they have so much stuff on their site just trying to make heads or tails if it all. I was thinking about the electronic ignition but most of my budget is Hobbs be blown on the other engine upgrades. What's a good one to look for?
On Dec 3, 2012, at 7:28 PM, "pwbcktftii [via Honda CB750'S]" < [hidden email]> wrote:
Just for piece of mind replace all seals in engine. Check clutch pad wear (you will need the 4 prong socket for this). Inspect cam, rockers & carriers (carriers are matched & stamped, do not mix up). Clean sump screen. May want to go with new oil pump if you punch it out. Unless you know the p.s.i. the pump developed when hot, from before tear down. There are a number of big bore kit companies out there. Do some research before you buy. Inspect stator wires for over heating. I strongly recommend using a torque wrench on all bolts in the engine. The only ones that seem to be a problem is the 6mm bolts in the cyl head. They may strip out when torqued. If they do, remove head & repair with a 6mm x 1.00 Heli Coil thread repair kit ($35.00). Also you could just go ahead & do it first. Measure the depth of the hole & use a long enough Heli Coil for the job. Read instructions carefully if you've never used one before. There are some hot cams available too. Might want to think about electronic ignition also. OK my last bit of advise, I know I will get some arguments about this, but, here goes - I use NGK D6EA spark plugs. Remember my 630 chain? My plugs are 10 years old also. Now here's my logic - The CURRENT books list the NGK D8EA plug for this application. Some where in the past the charts got changed. Originally they said NGK D7EA which is what they came with. D8EAs will foul out constantly & need to be replaced. D7EAs will be fine if you only drive your bike on hot summer days. Since I use mine 12 months out of the year, I find easier starts & faster warm up with the D6EAs. If you are going to drag race then D8EA is the way to go. Keep in mind that with this brand plug, the lower the # the hotter the plug. If you want to try these any Kawasaki dealer should have them in stock. Otherwise they need to be special ordered. FYI, I prefer to use oil coolers on all my bikes. I just feel it's hard to argue with success. hope this helps.
-----Original Message-----
From: blk72750 [via Honda CB750'S] < [hidden email]>
To: pwbcktftii < [hidden email]>
Sent: Mon, Dec 3, 2012 6:39 pm
Subject: Re: I just wanted a new transmission...
Yeah was thinking about going up to the 849cc. On the engine I was thinking of using the new bottom and top casing, and the internals from the old one. getting the cylinders bored out, some work on the top end, new tranny and pistons. Did I miss anything I should update while I'm already in there? Here's some picks of what I got off today.
On Dec 2, 2012, at 11:08 AM, "pwbcktftii [via Honda CB750'S]" < [hidden email]> wrote:
I am assuming you are refering to the cylinder studs. You didn't say how you got the 4 out. So, here goes. First try to unscrew the by the 2 nut method. Take 2 of the head nuts & make sure there clean. put a 12mm 6 point box end wrench on the stud (need for later). Install the first nut on a stud upside down. then install a second nut on regularly. Now take a second 12mm 6 pt. wrench & tighten the 2 nuts against each other as tight as you can. Now with the wrench that has the stud through it, try to unscrew the stud. Studs will flex some as you break them free. If it fells like there going to snap off, STOP. I realize this is a judgement call, but don't break the stud. Instead apply some heat to the aluminium around the stud bottom. A propane torch usually works. If not go to mapp gas or acetylene torch. Due to the hour glass shape of the cylinder studs I have not found a stud remover that will work here. Also I can't recommend vise grips, they will work but, you get deep bite marks in the stud. Then the stud will strech when torqued. Now that I said all this, I am assuming "again" that you have stock studs. I mention because, if you have any thoughts of going to an 836cc kit (or bigger). Then, now would be a great time to upgrade to the heavy duty studs that are 8mm thick top to bottom. Lastly use the 2 nut method to re-install the studs.
About a previous post - The engine cases are bolted together and machined as a set. I would take care when mixing tops & bottoms & years. Check crankcase breather spigot (2 sizes out there). There are differences in the counter shaft sprocket area (530 - 630 chain, rubber chain guide on older engines, different counter shaft covers). Also different clutch cover in '69', '70', '77' & '78' from middle years.
To all others I will take some pics & post when I can. My favorite chopper is apart right now for a new paint job. I am having the frame powder coated. FYI it's Jammer (Amen style frame) '78' SS engine, 836cc, Long twisted springer front end, king & queen seat, forward controls, tall sissy bar, Invader mag wheels & lots of chrome!
PHILLIP Chop what ya got! G.O.T.F.
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NAML
PHILLIP Chop what ya got! G.O.T.F.
To unsubscribe from I just wanted a new transmission..., click here.
NAML
To unsubscribe from I just wanted a new transmission..., click here.
NAML
PHILLIP Chop what ya got! G.O.T.F.
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About the chain oiler.....
It was a dumb idea from the very start.
Older British motorcycles used that idea too. The Japanese just copied the idea.
The heavy #630 chain is a lot of rotating weight.
When it lets go it will cause a lot of damage from the weight and the force.
With modern chain lubes that we have now the lube goes on
and into the rollers, then coagulates inside and does not fly off of the chain like motor oil would.
These modern chain lubes were not available in 1969.
Change to a #530 chain and sprockets.
On a Roadstar Adventure.
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