Missing pot.

[Kiwibiker]

Hi board, well, number 2 cylinder on my 80' custom exclusive has stopped running. Looks like sombody may have replaced the coils on her a tiome back, as well as the HT leads.
Can anybody post a pic of what the coils should look like please ? An HT lead had to be soldered back together, abd could be the problem.
We have stripped the cards, and they all had  amounts of orange coloured crap in them. No1 carb was flooding, had a bent idler needle. Bike is still smooth to ride , and keeps up power fairly well, even on three cylinders. but eating lots of gass.
Any ideas ?
Thanks guys
:ive to ride, ride to live !

[Re-run]

Well a couple items down on this page is about what the coils would look like.
https://www.partsnmore.com/cat_index.php?model=cb750_900_1100_dohc&category=electrical

Now I dont expect you to order from these guys or if they would even ship to you, they are in canada. But these just give you an idea. The wires are a non-suppression kind I think with resistance built into the caps to provide rf filtering. I think they are just 7mm wires.

Orange colored junk sounds like rust. Rust is reddish-brown but when diluted a bit, can look orange.
Most likely there is rust in the tank. A tank flush and coating should be done but if you don't have the time yet, a good inline filter will get rid of much of the rust but you might need to replace it fairly often as it clogs up. Obviously the bent needle will need to be replaced. Honda might have them yet otherwise some good carb kits should.

[vern401]

I agree Re-run
Along with an inline filter I like to tape a magnet to the filter ... I get them out of old blown speekers. I also will hook one to a wire somehow and put it in the tank to help collect the rust that breaks free in it.
there is a link on the site for rust removal and coating the tank. You can also use CLR to remove the rust but just like any rust eating acid you will need to rince and neutralise the acid. Baking Soda will work for that. Mix it in some water and slosh it around in the tank then rinse well. dry the tank as soon as your done brake cleaner works well... but coat it with something too. if nothing else use "used motor oil" to coat it. If you dont coat it or fill it with gas it will flash rust on you.

[Kiwibiker]

Ok, so now my mechanic buddy is sure the problem lay with the crap suzuki coils. He has some off some kinda Hpnda 1000cc, with caps and leads, reckons they will fix the problem.
Abt thoughts on putting hotter p;ogs in her ?, She has an oil cooler, so maybe a hotter spark may burn fuel more efficiantly, without unduly heating the motor ?
Any thoughts ?

[vern401]

I would Clean the carbs out .... Check the tank for rust. replace any bent or broken carb parts. Put in a new  or replacement coil... For now I would stick with the stock plugs though. at least until after you get the other problems all worked out... Since it has a firing problem I would test all the plugs and make sure they are all sparking the same..

[sgtslag]

An oil cooler has no effect on what temperature range of plugs to use!  An oil cooler drops the oil's temperature only.  I installed an oil cooler on my '79 CB750K.  When I rode it two-up, with luggage, in mid-80's temperatures, the oil came out of the engine at 250 F (this is where dino oil breaks down into carbon sludge deposits within your engine)!  When I ran the oil cooler, the oil coming out of the block dropped to 190-210 F!  It ran perfectly, with, or without, the oil cooler.  The cooler just dropped the overall temperature of the engine by 40-60 F.  It had no discernible effect on mileage, or performance.  It just cooled the engine/oil, which will extend the life of all of the parts, especially the seals.

If you run too hot a plug, you can burn a hole in the pistons!  I would be very cautious of deviating from the standard heat range of plug.  Cheers!