New user, new bike!!!

[Re-run]

Cyclex would be a good place to get an exhaust set. They do good work for the sohc. cycleschange.net
Otherwise, if you want a few options to look at, http://www.coneeng.com/motorcycle_components.html


Tools, may disagree, but the twist/pull method is 100%. That only changes when someone introduces a 3rd motion, side to side.  Twist, as in a nut on a bolt, will not crack anything or bend anything. And the pull is exactly the same as the motion with brake tubing. I have seen cracked housings, but if you grill the person enough, sure enough you'll find that they wiggled things too. It is wiggling, or adding an angle to the mix that damages things. In almost every case, damage will be caused by incorrect methods.

I have done many a set of carbs like this will no damage at all. Sometimes you do need to twist to break the corrosion that can build up. But not, twist and pull won't hurt anything, as long as you only twist and pull. This means, using a straight jaw pliers, no angled stuff. I have used this method since before I ever had internet to join forums, or had anyone to show me "proper" methods. My jets are the original and just as tight as the day the factory seated them. That has to say something. Just don't do something dumb and you'll be perfectly fine.
 I have never had anyone come back to me, here, or on other nameless forums, about their carbs being damaged. About the only way damage could occur, other than goofing uo, is if there is a tremendous amount of build up on the jets. In which case, the jet isn't likely to come out without damage of some sort anyways. Remember, twist, like a doorknob, you don't add any side to side or angle. Then pull, and pull is a pull no matter what tool is used. Again, no side forces.

However, you can use whichever method you want, it matters little as long as the jets come out and get cleaned.

A bigger concern is damaging the jets from cleaning them too harshly. And no, it isn't something that is easy to do. Honda sells jet cleaners that are wire. The idea is that you stick the wire in to break up the blockage, not roto-router around in the jet. A simple cleaning with carb dip or spray will not guarantee a clean jet. Only a physical cleaning will do that. If you are worried about it, use a could strands of copper wire from an old lamp power cord or something thin like that.

Make sure you clean the idle screw passages too. Then set them at 1.75 turns out, that is base line for the F I think, the manual says for sure, but I think it is 1.75.

Also, on the note of exhaust again. A muffler change will almost never require a jet change, or even retuning. About the only time this may be needed is if you toss on a set of very short headers, and that's it.

[carpe_noctem]

thanks on the tips really appreciate them and will faloow suit.

on that note what is everyones ideal idol rpm before i was getting just above 1000 now im getting close to 2000 and i have to push the throtle back to try to get less i didnt mess with anything betwwen thoes times except a freind put sea faom it but that was a week ago

ps i have been riding it around on and off since 11am till 300pm

[shinyribs]

1,000-1,200 is about the norm.

Sounds like your seafoam is working and the bike is getting more fuel now.

[Re-run]

With these bikes, there is a fast idle cam that is normally engaged when the choke is pulled. Many people don't bother to adjust it and just use the idle knob. For adjusting rpm when warming up. Issue with this is that once the engine is warm, it runs at higher rpm and you have to turn the knob out to lower rpm again.

Another thing that happens, especially with motion pro throttle cables, is that the "push" cable that closes the carbs seems to be slightly short and prevents the carbs from closing right. An easy test is to disconnect this cable from the rack and use the spring to close the carbs. See if this helps. I had to do this with my 78K.

Shiny is on though, rpm is around 1000-1200 rpm at idle. The bike tach isn't really too accurate, so it is an approximation.

[LukeM]

I have to fiddle with the throttle stop from time to time.  Depends if I want my Shadow to lope like a Harley, or puttputt like a Honda. :-)

After a long freeway run, it will idle higher for a few minutes, then eventually settle down.

As far as tach accuracy, what is a good unit to use to verify RPMs?  I have a few analog engine analyzer tools (tach/dwell meter), but I don't know if they would read 2 cylinder firing orders.  Yes, I know the CB750 is a 4 cylinder bike, but it acts like a dual cylinder engine (2 coils, 2 sets of points).

Luke M

[Re-run]

Most tachs will say how to set them for a particular type of engine. My dwell/tach is like that. I haven't had to use it for some time, so I don't remember what the setting is. good thing I still have my manual for it.

Shop tachs are usually accurate to within 30-50 rpm. The bike tach can be off by as much as 200.

[carpe_noctem]

So carbs are cleaned up since last time

But few days ago I had a oil leak wondering what it could be here's a pic right above the leak

[TOOLS1]

I cannot tell anything from that picture. Some common leaks are the rubber nickles that seal the holes over the head bolts, the seals (shifter, sprocket shaft), valve cover, and side covers. And then there is the improperly installed oil filter housing, and oil drain bolt.
TOOLS

[Re-run]

Pull back a little on the pic. It looks like the back end of the engine, where the center stand mounts. Hard to tell for sure though.