Oil cooler

[Kiwibiker]

Hi board,
I was just reasing my Haynes manual, for CB750/CB900 thru 1978-1984,(DOHC)  and it says that the oil cooler was only ever factory fitted to the CB900.
Yet, there it is, in mt CB750 Custom Exclusive 1980 ?
Whats the deal, any suggestions ?
Also, I cant seem to find the CC rateing anywhaere on the motor itself, does anybody know where to find it ?
Im wondering if my motor hasnt been replaced with a Bold'or 900 motor at some point.
Cheers.
Kiwibiker

[Re-run]

Well "most likely" someone added the oil cooler. That would be the easiest explanation. However, I am not sure where you would find your engine size. On my bike (sohc) the number is on the head cover.
It would be cool though if you did have a 900 stuffed in there!

[LukeM]

I have a plate on the mounting area for the oil cooler.  I think there's a pic of it elsewhere on this forum (maybe search for "cooler").  Right now, it just has a length of rubber hose, but it probably wouldn't be too difficult to plumb in some oil cooler thingie when I get my bike back.  

On my 1979 CB750, on the front part of the head just below the valve cover, it says 748cc.  Maybe yours has a similar marking?

Hope this helps.
Luke M

[Kiwibiker]

We, as far as I can tell, the oil cooler attached to the frame is original, the paint is the same all over, and the bolts nuts and rubber washers on the mounting look stock standard Honda to me.
Buggerd if I know, still cant find the CC stamp on the motor anywhere.
My last custom Exclusive didnt have an oil cooler, and it had a black seat too, wich musnt have been original, but it was mint in all other ways.
The paintwork on this one is pretty shitty, not bad for 30 years, but its got lots of chips and is pretty rough looking, even after I have carfuly patched them up.
Im thining of painting her, maybe Sungold Yellow, like the yellow on a streetsign, or the yellow line on the road, with a deep layer of laqour over the top. Perhaps with black or red pinstripes ?
Im also intending to exchange the original taillight assembly, with indicators, for a smaller tailight, or maybe the same light on a mount without the indicator stalk, and put the same indicators, late CB, onto the frame where the retaining bolts are for the rear mudguard.

[Re-run]

Hard to say. It maybe possible the some point early in the bikes life, someone added the cooler and then repainted the frame. Or maybe there was a frame swap using a 900 frame.
I know oil coolers were a fairly common mod it seems and so the adding and repainting sounds possible.

The yellow paint might be kinda neat. You could either do the tank and such like that or maybe the frame and paint the rest of the bike black. Either way would look pretty cool.

[sgtslag]

Oil Coolers were a very common modification to the 70's air cooled bikes.  I did a lot of research on them for my '79 CB750K, then I added a radiator off of a CB900, I also installed an oil thermostat.  A lot of people claim that they are only necessary if you race, or ride with heavy loads, such as two-up, and touring.

I found that without the oil cooler, my oil was coming out of the engine at 250 F!  This is the upper limit where dino oil breaks down into sludge...  With the oil cooler running, my oil averages 190-210 F, riding two-up, with luggage, in mid-80's temperatures!  I am sold on the value of an oil cooler for my 750K.

I recently had a chance to ride this bike in mid-50's temperatures:  the oil stayed at 160 F, while riding one-up, sans luggage, at 60 MPH.  When I took it onto Interstate, and ran it up to 70 MPH, the oil finally warmed up to 180 F, which is the low end of where oil is fully functioning as it should (suspending particles, flowing freely, properly lubricating the engine, evaporating liquid combustion byproducts suspended in the oil, etc.).  I had assumed that the thermostat, which opened at 180 F, would keep the oil from getting too cool, without having to cover the radiator.  I was wrong.  When the temperatures get below 60 F, even with a fully auto-magic thermostat installed, I still need to cover the radiator.

The thermostat sends 10% of the oil up to the radiator even when it is fully closed, to prevent thermal shock, pressure loss, and foaming; at temperatures of 180 F+, the thermostat sends 95% of the oil up to the radiator.  I highly recommend an automatic oil thermostat -- they improve the warm up period, and optimize the oil cooler without input from the rider -- except in cooler temperatures (I used a Perma-Cool thermostat, which is a great product).  This flow of even 10% of the cool oil to the radiator, was keeping the oil from reaching the optimum minimum temperature.  The good news, however, is that I rarely ride in temperatures below 60 F.

If you do not have an oil temperature gauge installed, I would highly recommend you do so.  The sensor can be put in place of the idiot oil light's sensor on the engine.  You can, if you desire, put a T-adapter in place, to allow you to have both the idiot light/pressure gauge, and the temperature gauge.  With a cooler on board, you really should be aware of the oil's temperature.  It will tell you when you need to cover the radiator, and when you need to open it.  Running with cool oil will make your engine run stiff, and it will cause additional wear on the engine.  Ideally, you want your engine oil to run between 180 F to below 250 F; the cooler it is, the longer it will last, so 180 F would be perfect, but in the real world, an upper limit of 210 is probably as good as it will get.  Cheers!

[mikefootusa]

Hey guys,
Got into this thread after taking a good look under the CB900C that I just bought for a parts bike.  I needed the rotor from this bike to fix the charging issue I was having with my CB750SC.  The 900C comes with an oil cooler, and after comparing the two bikes in the fiche I see that both take the same pan gasket, sump and valve body.  So I am assuming that if I take the whole pan and oil cooler off the 900...it will fit on the 750.  I am thinking about down the road when it's in the 90's here in Charlotte...would be nice to have the extra piece of mind that the oil is getting cooled.

What do ya think?

[sgtslag]

You need the CB900's oil pump, as well.  It is a dual channel pump, sending some of the sump's oil up to the cooler, while the other circuit pumps oil to the engine.  That is a common modification to the 750's.  Cheers!

[mikefootusa]

Thanx sgtslag!  

[SoyBoySigh]

BUMP!

AHA! So there WAS an "exclusive" version of the CB750C, wasn't there? I'm a huge DOHC Honda nut, and yet I've never come across any real verification of what the model truly was, let alone what it was designated as. Of course, I've got PICS of 'em, but only a few and only seemingly Honda's own promotional shots, which are often well known to be PRE-PRODUCTION units - And so as such I've always questioned the credulity of the thing, as though it was an early prototype version. But then a short time ago I started to find some PARTS listed on eBay - And right at first glance I was pretty sure that's what I was looking at. Having only seen 'em the ONCE though, again I wondered whether this was a rare prototype version.

The major differences being the rear 16" Comstar wheel has a DISC brake, number one.

'Cause what I'd seen on eBay, is there were the alloy brackets with a "Euro" or "Sport-Kit" style REAR-SETS foot controls, with a rear Master-Cylinder for the disc brake of course. Almost snapped 'em up for MY bike, 'cause I was looking for some mods on my 'F - Anyway I let 'em slip through m y proverbial fingers. as if THAT chance is gonna come up again! Whomsoever tore the thing DOWN though, there's a corner of motorcycle HELL just waiting for those who abuse special editions......

So these CB750C "exclusive" REAR-SET brackets differ from the CB750F & even the Euro/Sport-Kit version of the CB750K-zabc controls. Hmmm - I'm  not even sure whether they're an actual rear-set peg position, but they're an alloy bracket - I'd love to get a look at the FRAME, at what was underneath. Surely some very interesting stuff!

(((I'm using the CB750K type on my "CB900K0 Bol Bomber", (Which is what you call an '82 CB900F Bol D'Or based 'homage' to the '65 CB450K0 Black Bomber. Duh.) I had to modify 'em quite a bit* - but there are advantages over the OEM parts, imho!)))

Then there's a light brown seat-cover. Bit of a give-away, but you can get seat covers in 25 different colours of vinyl these days so it's not an ear-mark per se.

And then there's a lighter shade of blue on the tank.

AND there's a straight, NON- leading-axle type fork, with - IIRC - dual 276mm discs?

So there was an OIL-COOLER, too? That's awesome. Having burned out an engine in Alberta Canada, during a cold time of year - just riding the thing hard is all - I'd NEVER run one of these bikes without an oil-cooler. Only - don't just stick with the OEM oil-cooler. If you're gonna buy the system from a CB900C/CB1000C/CB900F/CB1100F etc, don't take the cooler unless they throw it in. Get an over-sized aftermarket cooler. And save some $$$'s on the lines, too - The AN-type fittings are "bling-bling" but they actually restrict the diameter of the tubing compared to how big they are. You want the bottom half of the hose fittings - Heck, I wonder whether the TOP halves actually fit the sump pan, 'cause there are a ton of THOSE things left over from all the 'F-olks who use the AN- hoses with an NPT threaded aftermarket cooler - They'll re-direct your hoses to a new routing, but wtf -

Either which way, it's cheap to replace worn out rubber hose & gear-clamps, which would fit onto the original hose ends if you cut off the pressed-on clamps. In fact, you can get new ferrules and a special pair of pliers to put NEW permanent clamps onto 'em. The POINT here being that the straight up hose barbs & gear clamps don't RESTRICT the same way the swivel type AN-fittings do, with all their tiny choke points - And choke points don't just have a "weakest link" behaviour, they're CUMULATIVE meaning the more "re-emergent exits" and tight bends and restrictions etc, the more back-pressure you'll have on your cooler loop. Not a big deal if you're running a complete pump stage dedicated to cooling the oil - but if you're gonna run it in a loop WITH your filter & lubrication, you should focus on retaining maximum pressure here.

I'd also be curious about running a cooler loop in the usual KZ/GS way, where it taps off the external hard-line to the head, cool all the oil going into the head - But in OUR case, I'd like to see that oil return through a modified valve cover with the tachometer drive completely removed.

Meanwhile the sump could be extended to hold more oil with a stacked spacer cut from a spare 750 sump, just that top 3/4"-1" section is easy to cut off & file flat. Stack it with a spare gasket & longer bolts, or heck, wtf, you could WELD it if you cared to - Though if I were gonna WELD it, I'd want to extend the thing a heck of a lot bigger. Some type of huge fore-&-aft extension like an old RC-166 or RC-181.

WHICH you'd want to run with some straight shotgun headers - Cycle-Exchange makes some good 4-into-4 headers for the SOHC and DOHC bikes. Pretty cool exhausts in all shapes & sizes.

I'd also be curious about re-routing both halves of the twin-rotor pump into ONE channel, run the cooler off the adapter plate deal for spin-on filters just like the SOHC people do it - Though supposedly the OEM paper filters are better than the crap in most spin-on filters, and cheaper to recycle 'em besides. Personally I like the LOOK of the OEM filter housing, and I'd be curious about running IT with an adapter plate, maybe the '77-'78 SOHC "cooler" slice which fits between the filter housing & the block.

I found something in an oil-filter catalog once, was a TRUCK type spin-on filter with a diameter to match the o-ring on the bottom crank-case itself - So you'd only need the proper male-to-male "pipe-nipple" which I believe would be either a garden-hose OR 3/4" NPT fitting, and the usual spin-on thing is 1/2" NPT though the truck types might take a 3/4" which would REALLY simplify things. That way, you're not wasting space with the spin-on adapter PLATE, which is thick enough that it actually wastes what could otherwise be more length of FILTER - If your header splits side-to-side it doesn't matter, if you've got an old Hand-Bent WOLF pipe like the one on my "CB900K0 Bol Bomber", you're out of luck - The damn thing's gotta come off each and every time I change the damn oil & filter! ARGH. It's a beautiful pipe but what a hassle! And with my back problems? AND my $$$ problems? Jeebuz. I've been thinking of cutting the thing down for spring hooks so I can pop it on and off a lot quicker & easier.....

Well - the major changes to the oiling system are INTERNAL - If nothing else, contact "Headless" on the 'F-orum (www.cb1100f.net) about the modified pick-up screens. They change the filter screen tube from male to female, and more to the point they SEAL a lot better. The whole idea is about preventing pump cavitation and injecting foamy oil into the plain-bearing automotive style crank these engines use. Speaking of which, anything I've mentioned about the KZ/GS style cooler loop, maybe it should be taken with a grain of salt! Ha-ha. Those models used a roller-bearing crank, and don't have to worry about oil pressure the same way we do - Strangely enough, those roller bearings create 10 times the friction as the plain-bearing type. Though we could use an electric primer pump on start-up, to prevent the wear-&-tear which pretty much ALL takes place during starting. But you know what - Come to think of it, the KZ/GS cooler loop feeds the HEAD, and they've got simple CAM journals just like the Honda. Same deal. Works for them, should work for us.

Well enough about the oil-cooler thing. Just - Suffice it to say, don't content yourself, let alone pay through the nose for, the simple OEM cooler from the CB900C/CB900F - You'll wanna do a bit better than that.

I'm curious about what all was different about this SPECIAL EDITION - I'm pretty sure this one had the standard 276mm dual-disc front end, and not a single disc or worse:

Other versions of CB750C came with dual 240mm rotors, similar to those fitted to early "Plastic Maggot" type CX500, but different in the cut-out pattern of the center. A 5/10 spoke pattern, IIRC.

Several different versions of 240mm 5-bolt discs for the front Comstar wheels, but imho these would be the most appropriate for a "Front Hub Trick" REAR wheel with bolt-up CUSH-DRIVE and a more compact lightweight hub & more to the point a more compact light-weight rear disc brake. 'Cause they're a decent pattern match to some 296mm dished one-peice light-weight rotors from CB1100RB (only!) There's a replica from Metalgear Au, but there are certainly cheaper options for 296mm front discs. Notably FT500 Ascot for another lightweight type, or '77-'78 CB750A Hondamaitc for the standard SOHC-4 style rotors in a 5-bolt pattern. Or the double-thick vented 296mm rotors made from multiple layers bonded together - IMHO the most awesome would be the CB1100F 276mm spiral pattern center-carrier 9-rivet type discs, but replace the outer rings with 296mm in CAST IRON - build that CB750C as a proper RCB/RS1000 replica type of deal! With some awesome early silver Comstar rims in 2.5x18" & 3.5x18" preferably with Akront "NERVI" rims - It'd cost about $400-$500 for the set, ROTORS that is (even more for the wheels heh-heh) but HEY they'd be about the most awesome period-correct rotors you could HAVE on these bikes. Especially considering for around the same price you could have 'em in 310mm or more to the point 316mm to suit the 43mm TRAC fork from '96+ ST1100-ABS, which is only TRAC on the one side but stick two legs on it and a mirror image caliper hanger, you'd have the most awesome set-up for a DOHC-4 or a V-4 Honda right through to the mid '80s, works-spec for a race-replica VF1000R type of deal - or more to the point work it end-to-end and start with the frame & engine of a V65 Magna or Sabre, shaft-to-chain conversion for another un-GAWD-ly sum of $$$'s but think of what you'd GET - the twin-shock Magna as "CZ860K0 Sand-Cast" homage to the CZ Type 860, or the Sabre as an RS850R or the RWF1000 or whatever it was - the "Water-Whale" -

Or build a CB750C based RACER, with them Akront "NERVI" rims in 2.5x18" & 3.0x16" they're out there right now probably the last rims of the type you can FIND without devoting your life to searching ha-ha, and they'd ditch a good 50% of the rim weight off of these wheels, turn 'em into some proper RACE-SPEC lightweight rims.

One could also do a 16" rim up FRONT, too - There were recently some Akront "NERVI" rims in 3.50x16" for sale on eBay in the U.K., though I missed the boat AGAIN - Some 18" front rims, like "Reverse" style GL1100A 2.50x18" or CM400 2.15x18" front wheels, or the earlier "Silver" style (though painted Black!) 1.85x18" from earlier CM400's & CB400's might be cut down to suit the 16" front.

(((There's a CBX six-cylinder in the Netherlands which was redone with 3.0x18" & 6.0x18" "NERVI" rims, which are probably still lighter than say, the "BOOMERANG" rims from CB900F2 & CB1100R in 2.5x18" & 3.0x18" - It's got a 180/55ZR18 rear tire - If I'd been aware of such a tire I'd have bought those rims 'cause I'd seen 'em FIRST - Argh. Thought I'd need a 200-spec DRAG SLICK to work with that rim. Dammit. ANYWAY, it just shows how the 19" front wheel - NEEDLESSLY given the existence of 18" front wheels - was cut-down and bolted to the 18" rim. They just trimmed the end of the spoke-blades. They're actually SPLIT at the ends, the gap in the middle doesn't come back together anymore. And it still works! Just a good example of: 1) the "NERVI" rims are out there in hiding, available in any size the wire-spoke Akront TR rims were ever made in! 2) Comstar "spokes" can indeed be cut down to suit smaller rims, ergo the 17" rear could be matched to an 18" cut down for a matching 17" rim for proper CROTCH-ROCKET tires! AND: 3) the CBX owner was even more of a TWIT than I am - 'cause if they'd used the "Silver" style rims, '79 rear and the aforementioned CM400 front with a dual-disc Comstar hub & CB1100RB 296mm discs? They'd have pulled off a proper pseudo-replica of the SEVENTY-EIGHT original, FIRST year  CBX six!)))

With a 16" pair, front and rear, you could use some low-profile SPORT tires, just like you'd see on the Ducati F1 special editions or the 750ss "SuperLight", or the Yam FJ1100 for that matter. More to the point, the DOHC-4 Honda based Bimota HB2 or HB3 - awesome lightweight production racers one and all - There are a TON of suitable 16" yet SPORTY, low-profile GO-FAST tires that would work with these rim sizes. LIke the low-profile MAXI-SCOOTER tires in sizes like 110/70-16 & 140/70-16, I know they'll fit on 3.0x16" & 3.5x16" rims 'cause of my "KZ440LOL" project - Though I'm not too keen on using 'em on THIS big of a bike, I'd be perfectly comfortable with doing so on a 400cc-500cc twin..... Ah, but there are still plenty of suitable 16" sport-bike tires out there. 130/60-16 & 150/60-16 type of stuff. You don't have to go with the CRUISER stuff, is my point.

I guess it depends on whether you're making a lightweight CB750C based racer for YOURSELF, or whether you're making it to blow people's preconceptions about the CB750C itself. 'Cause it's two different things. It can be a really slick, hot hot bike. The full-on Akront-Comstar ligthweight RCB/RS1000 pseudo-replica style of race-bike which I'm picturing for the 'K or the 'F or a CB1100R for that matter - with the sole differences being the 16" rim size and a rear drum. AND/OR it can keep the original 'C-ustom image, looking like it rolled straight out of the '80s Honda showroom - only a hell of a lot faster & better handling.

Either which way? Once you've got the WHEELS handled:

Strip the CB750C down, dig up an alloy or fiberglass tank in the same shape - should be a hell of a lot cheaper than practically ANY other shape of racing tank, given the whole cruiser aftermarket where alloy tank makers just aren't getting the attention they SHOULD - put a flat-back sheet across some type of horrid 1940s Harley 'big'-twin, left-right split half-tank type of thing - The point being it should be lightweight & higher capacity, but ideally keep the same shape as the original CB750C tank. 'Cause in this version, we'll want to preserve those original good looks!

THEN you'd wanna stick the CBX '81-'82 "Pro-Link" model's 39mm fork & caliper-hangers on it, grab some reproduction CB1100RB 296mm lightweight "dished" front rotors, KEEP the rear drum hub, but ideally get into the smaller CB400 type of drum if you can get away with it, or drill & ventilate the drum every which way you've seen done on old wire-spoke racing drums, air-scoops etc etc. You'll have WAAAY too much drum back there already so never mind about the enormous 2LS nonsense on CR750 SOHC-4 replicas. That's old's-cool thinking, the truth is NOW we understand you'll want to increase your FRONT brakes. Truth be told, for the $$$'s the best deal would be on the CB750A Hondamatic front rotors, or FT500 - when you get into it and start blowing a few minds including your OWN, you get the CB1100RB replica discs, like if ... no, scratch that -  WHEN you wind up on "Bike Exif" etc. Now you'll wanna take the entire RUMP of the bike and make a mould around it - The idea being, you'll want a proper lightweight fiberglass SINGLE-POSITION SEAT but the whole COWL at the back should be shaped like the rear half of the CB750C's stock rear seat - In fact, I'm pretty sure you can get the front half of the seat from something like GL500 or GL650 Silver-Wing etc. But the whole rear half should be FIBERGLASS is what I'm getting at, just paint it all to look just like the stock rear seat, fender, lights & license plate etc. Strip the living hell out of it, put some DRAG bars or Superbike bars if need be, TALLER REAR SHOCKS of course, some rear-set pegs on the passenger-peg position, I'm telling you  -

The CB750C could be one of the most lightweight & awesome little racers out there.

And then you'll wanna stuff the frame with an 1123cc-1157cc monster with oiling mods outlined by one Mr. BRENT HYDE - He's the absolute Grand Master of racing the DOHC-4.

The key is in the lightweight rims and the taller rear shocks, the 39mm fork, 296mm dual front rotors, lightened rear drum brake, and changing the ergonomics.

Though, come to think of it, it would be totally hilarious to outrace the usual stiffs while sitting bolt upright or better yet laid back like you're in a lazy-boy chair!

You'd wanna make it properly aerodynamic though. Say - give it a cheesy PLEXI-FAIRING, but cut-down & aerodynamic like the one from the new DUCK GT1000 "Touring" Model - I'm sure we've all seen the adverts? With the right tweaking, a plexi screen could actually IMPROVE the aerodynamics. Especially if you're NOT gonna be doing the "MFF" (monkey fornicates football) ergonomics.

To make this WORK, you'll have to drop the seat height with just a skiff of fiberglass with some neoprene for that front half of the seat, maybe even extend a fake sissy-bar back-rest, if you're really planning to lean back like that. All the better if you could mod the sub-frame with one of those dipped curved top-rail mods just across the triangulation of the sub-frame. The raised back-rest would be backed up by some lightweight plastic tubing sprayed with that newfangled fake chrome spray stuff, just to make it all look like some proper aftermarket back-rest type of nonsense. In other words, you'll want it to look like you've got even MORE weight on the thing.

Best to invest in a whole pile of that fake chrome spray, 'cause you'll want the lightweight ABS plastic or fiberglass front fender too, but you'll want it to look like the chromed-steel original CB750C fender. The more it LOOKS like there's heavy steel crap all over the bike, yet there really isn't?

The more you'll freak out the usual CB750 people when you blast right past 'em.

I'm loving the idea of the lightweight CB750C racer.  Especially if it made it all the way to the Bol D'Or Classics or the IOM Classic TT, though AHRMA "Forgotten Era" would be the place to start....

Could you see it?



-Sigh.


*About those rear-set brackets from the Euro CB750K:

An interesting difference here, which shows further potential for using the actual FRAME, vis-a-vis tweaking the swing-arm pivot location etc - Is that the early 'F models & the 'K etc had a 16mm swing-arm pivot bolt whereas my '82 CB750F frame & the CB900F frame (((where my engine's currently sitting and is coming out of ASAP))) had the 18mm bolt. What I DID with this, is I drilled 'em out OFFSET, in this case such that the brackets tilt upwards in the back - though I also could've feasibly tweaked 'em the other way to drop the passenger pegs etc DOWN. But that's not why I was looking at these brackets in the first place. The KEY feature I was looking for is that the pedal pivot hole is the rear-most located of all the different types. I might rather use something with a welded on pivot tube, directly on the frame, if I had my druthers. Especially if it were put right where I wanted it. Though it's nice to be able to change stuff. A forward located pivot hole would be alright, probably better than the rear-most pivot hole, IF you were using a Tarozzi type linkage for TWO complete "Bell-Crank" mechanisms. But that's redundant, unless you somehow needed a ridiculously high or low ratio on that Bell-Crank - which is ridiculous. I'd PREFER to use a rear master-cylinder with a PULL type actuation, which is to say an integral Bell-Crank - Like the old Brembo Guzzi unit I've picked up - too bad it's got an integral reservoir - limiting orientation & placement etc. But yeah, for a direct PEDAL mounting these 'K-type Euro/Sport-Kit rear-sets work well. I've paired 'em to the CB1100RB alloy pedal, but am planning to replace that with a cut-down telescoped & welded STANDARD pedal, just to keep as much of the classy OEM aesthetic as possible. The alloy pedal's gonna go with a DRUM hub, on another DOHC I've planned for my daughter to ride. Got all the upgrade parts, just need an ENGINE really.....

Anyway - SOMEBODY'S gotta build that CB750C racer. I mean, we might pick up a 'C for my daughter, though I'd rather give her the hotter tuned 'F engine. We're looking for the most light-weight set-up either which way, as it's all about the "featherweight" factor. Got some choice super lightweight wire-spoke rims set aside for it, with the 3.50x18" Super-Akront on the rear. Though I've also got some of 'em in 3.50x16" - which I'd only wanna use with another 16" rim up front. In fact, I'm using one FOR a front wheel, with a 4.25x18" rear, for the "Spencer Replica" vibe, on my "Bol Bomber". But I've collected a decent pile of choice alloy wire-spoke rims for my next three or four projects. All of 'em with a different configuration & size of rims, like 3.50x16" & 5.00x17", or 2.50x16" & 3.50x16", 2.50x18" & 3.50x18", 3.00x18" & 4.25x18", 2.50x18" & 4.25x17", 3.00x16" & 3.50x16", etc etc. ut all of 'em in wire-spoke. Thing is - I'm still hoping to build the lightweight COMSTAR wheels over here. 'Cause Comstar wheels are AWESOME. Don't let anybody tell you otherwise.

I picture a CB750C based racer completely re-writing the BOOK on classic CB750's - It's just gotta be done RIGHT is all. I'd like to see it smack the pants right off the SOHC CR750 and the DOHC "Spencer Replica" CB750F racers. Just to be DIFFERENT. It's not like I'm even that big of a fan of CRUISERS per se, in fact I've engaged in a wee bit of "De-Cruiser-ization" in a sense with my other project "KZ440LOL" for my daughter, which is currently stalled due to some screw-ups with the machinist where some rather expensive & important parts might need to be replaced. Argh. Truth be told it's the current availability of Akront "NERVI" rims which gets me fired up about this idea - But it could really be something, is what I realized.

Picture the whole 'F-ield full of CB750F "Spencer Replica" racers in silver with blue stripes, lined up astride "mean green" KZ1000R Eddie Lawson Replicas - Lawson & Spencer at Daytona. Darmok and Jalad at Tanagra. But then THIS fucking thing streaks from the back of the pack, tearing up the asphalt & making competitor DOHC-4 jockeys spontaneously projectile-vomit into their helmet visors, making the cruiser riding NASCAR fans in the back row stand up and let out a rebel yell (((Yanno, somebody really oughta re-mix the Billy Idol song with a back-up vocalist chick giving an actual "with a-" YEEE-HAWWWWW "-she cried more, more more"))) *cough* Sorry - I didn't mean to compare cruiser riders to Nascar fans ha-ha. That was a low blow indeed. *cough* - PICTURE IT though, upsetting the proverbial apple-cart heck maybe even literally upsetting an actual apple-cart beside the track, blowing minds left hand and right, burning a blue streak of smelly burnt rubber as it lays waste to all that super-cheese repli-racer NOSTALGIA - re-writing an alternative time-line, revisionist history. If only there were a TIME MACHINE - not just a motorcycle I mean literally, to bring the ultra-fast CB750C back to the '82 AMA Superbike championship at Daytona - What would motorcycles look like TODAY if there had been an upset like that.....

[ArjaiC]

WTF?

[TOOLS1]

He is wordy. I have never had enough time to fully read through any of his posts myself.
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