Oil

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Oil

nest
Any recommendation for oil and filter for the cb 750f2n 1992?? Also, I'm looking for indicators and headlight for the same model of bike as above.  

Anyone with any spares or info around these things, let me know.

Cheers
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Re: Oil

LukeM
Administrator
Welcome to the forum!

Honda will tell you to use their 10W40 motorcycle oil.  You cannot go wrong with that.  You may pay a bit more for it, but it should work well.
Since the transmission/clutch and engine use the same oil, you would do well to avoid oils with Energy Saving properties.  These incorporate additives to help car engines reduce friction.  Those additives can cause problems for clutch disks, causing them to slip prematurely.
Conventional or synthetic oils will both work well.  Some prefer the Shell Rotella T 5W40 oil, others have their own preference.  If you change from conventional to full synthetic, there's a chance you might get a few leaks and drips of oil onto the pavement.  The thinner synthetic oil will remove "dirt seals" that build up in your engine.  To prevent that, you might want to run some Sea-Foam in the crankcase for a few minutes before changing your oil.  Sea-Foam is a very light oil/solvent that helps clean internal parts, such as crankcases, oil passages, and carbs (yes, carbs:  run one ounce per gallon in your tank to dissolve crud and buildup).

I hope this helps.  Type OIL in the search window on the forum's front page, and I'm sure you'll find LOTS of comments.

Luke M
Used to have a 1979 CB750L, sold it as a parts bike, now riding a slightly modified 1984 VT700C. Network/Field Engineer. Central OH, USA, Earth, Sol System, Milky Way Galaxy, Universe.
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Re: Oil

sgtslag
In reply to this post by nest
I switched all of my vehicles, and engines, to the same oil:  Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Synthetic (diesel, see below), ~$22/gallon at Wal-Mart.  It allows my 1965 Air Compressor to turn over normally, in January, in tropical Minnesota!  Search the Internet for reviews on it:  rated SN for cars; JASO rated for use in motorcycles; no friction modifiers, no Energy Star symbol; high detergent; full synthetic in performance, regardless of what the MSDS states about it being a Type III, conventional oil -- my car spins over in sub-zero F temperatures, like it was 80 F in July...

Regardless of brand, I would suggest only using synthetic oils.  My '79 CB750K ran consistently at 250 F, two up, with luggage, at highway speeds -- that is the thermal limit of conventional oil, before it breaks down into carbon sludge.  All synthetics have a thermal limit 350-400 F, so you won't need to worry about that issue again.  Synthetics can run longer, as well, but that requires oil analysis to know how long is too long...


No recommendation on cartridge filters -- they're all pretty much the same (spin-on's are another story, though).  I buy the Fram at Wal-Mart, and don't bat an eyelash.  The Fram horror stories about the cardboard ends dissolving in oil, are bunk:  no one has ever cut up used oil filters in their 'tests' -- they always cut up new, unused filters, which proves nothing...  If the cardboard ends disintegrated, and destroyed engines, they would have been sued out of business decades ago!  (Fram is the leading seller in the US market...  Statistics should have caught up with them 40 years ago.)  Besides that, cardboard only disintegrates when soaked in water, not oil.  I have used Fram paper filters in my bikes since 2006, without issue.  Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII