Question High idel , what's the right idle position ?

[Coolbreeze]

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[shinyribs]

Sounds like you've got your starter clutch figured out already. Nice detective work.

As far as the highidle. 1200 +/- 100 rpm is pretty much what they like. Most all high idle issues are vacuum leaks. Spraying around with starting fluid is the best way to test for/find a vac leak. Carbs being out of sync is another reason.

As far as "should be all the way in"...well, I dunno. If the idle speed screw was designed to be ''all the way inn'' then there wouldn't be much need for it at all. You do need to adjust this once the carbs are sealed up tight and synched.

Also, the choke linkage activates a fast-idle. So might wanna have a look in that are,too. Good luck!

[Re-run]

Stacks look cool! Way better than pods do, even though you can still run into the vacuum issues that pods have.

What you want to do is get a decent accurate tach that runs on spark since obviously a mechanical 1 won't be easy to find or likely work well. I have a dwell meter that I got when I used points still. It has a tach function and is really accurate. You can use this to help set idle speed. then you can learn what idle should sound like and that will help with setting it when the tach is not hooked up. the tach is also useful for tuning the low speed mix.

As for what you idle speed should be, it depends on your set up, but shiny said about 1200 rpm or so, and that will generally work good. Sometimes you can set it lower as long as throttle response is good. With your stacks, you might need a 1200 rpm idle though to make sure there is enough vacuum.

The clutch can affect idle some. not so much the clutch but the oil it sits in. When on the center stand, it is common for the rear wheel to still turn when in neutral. this is the oil friction in the plates and is normal. Also, you are taking the load almost totally off with the clutch pulled. If it is a fair amount, it could mean that your carbs should be synced.

The cracks in the boots will get worse and they are a freaking headache for tuning. Find new ones and buy em. You'll be glad you did. New clamps too. Those stretch and then you can't get the seal you need. Those 2 things can make a world of difference in tuning.

[Coolbreeze]

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[Re-run]

You should not have to play with the idle knob at all, or very little. Certainly NOT for starting. That is the purpose of the choke on the bike. the chokes purpose is for starting and warm up. The PO told you wrong. Maybe not on purpose, but it was still wrong. As shiny said, it actuates the fast idle cam, essentially what you are attempting to do by changing the idle knob.

So, get a choke cable and hook it up. Get it set up right and likely, once the fast idle is set, you will hardly have to mess with the  idle knob.

[Coolbreeze]

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[Re-run]

The fast idle is essentially a physical cam that opens the carbs up more. Just like when you turn the idle knob or throttle. this is why, if the choke cable is set right and everything is adjusted, you don't need to use the idle set knob.

With the bowl drains, was it coming out of the tubes?
If it is on the sides of the bowls, you will need new bowl gaskets.

If it is coming out of the tubes, then it is usually the float needle. You can try to rap the side of the bowl with a screwdriver handle, lightly. This may stop it. If not, then the bowls come off and you need to inspect the needle for wear and clean the seat surface. Those are usually the culprits. Although, if the float is not set to the right height, it may not be shutting fuel off right. On rare cases, the overflow tube in the bowl is cracked.

[Coolbreeze]

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[Coolbreeze]

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[shinyribs]

Progress.

Let us know what you find in the carbs. Always good to learn new symptoms/solutions.