If you are measuring for continuity with the Rectifier/Regulator removed from the bike's circuits, then a short/continuity between all leads, is bad. Make sure the Rectifier/Regulator is tested when it is completely removed from the bike's wiring.
The main fuse on my '79 is
30 Amps, not
15. Check to make sure the main fuse is rated at only 15 Amps, and not 30. Using metal foil to bypass the fuse is a really bad idea: gasoline fumes in the carbs; hydrogen, and oxygen gases coming out of the battery; a metal tank, full of gasoline, with wires directly beneath it -- if those wires catch fire from over-current...
Here is a source for an after-market Rectifier/Regulator, solid-state, much higher tech than OEM:
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/Reg_rec_units.htmlI have not used his stuff, but if I need to replace mine, I will order from him. He claims his parts are over-engineered, well beyond the limits of what they need, so that sounds good to me. Cheers!
1979 CB750K (sold, 2012, but not forgotten)
1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD Belt Drive (sold, 2011)
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII